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Which LED lights do you prefer?

4.8K views 31 replies 4 participants last post by  lpscruggs  
#1 · (Edited)
I bought 2 sets of LED's for the 7s, but I can't decide which I prefer.

I have a set of 10w single LED 2" square lights and a set of 16w quad LED 3" square lights (with 3d focusing lenses.) Both are a spot vs a flood.

I currently have a 16w LED light bar under the headlights that I'll likely be removing. When I bought it it was more of a flood vs a spot. I found while the flood was nice I'd rather have the distance vs the ability to see some of the ditches.

I have the stock alternator (sucky) and have a set of heated grips drawing 12-24w

Here's some quick mock ups of the lights mounted thru the front lower bolts of the fairing.

FYI The small ones are basically the old Denali D1 lights. (I think Twisted Throttle bought them from the same supplier and added their Denali name and a wiring harness kit and charged $$$$ more for them lol.) http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/denali-d1-led-lighting-single-pod-with-euro-driving-beam-lens
 
#2 · (Edited)
#3 · (Edited)
#4 · (Edited)
And a comparison

 
#5 ·
Any way to hide them? Maybe tuck them up inside the gap between the fairing and forks?
 
#8 ·
The smaller ones might fit, but I'd be worried about the clearances with the forks when turning. The larger ones wouldn't.

I take it you don't like either as is lol.
 
#7 ·
I can wire them up however I desire. These were just installed mock ups of how they could look if I install them where I did.

The "bar" that's under the headlight is the only one currently wired up (I've had it a couple of years on the bike) and it's attached to a switch on the dash so I can run it whenever I wish with the high or the low beam. I would likely wire up any auxiliary lighting to run with either the high or the low beam but run thru a relay that required the bike ignition to be "on."

By default here there's no way I can turn off the main headlight. We don't have the tiny running light under the main headlight that some of the other country models have. If you recall that's part of why your right hand gear housing looks different from ours - one less switch.
 
#10 ·
I was just wondering because if they were on all the time it would make seeing the indicators harder
 
#11 ·
It's for those late night ride s home from work thru the back road twisties and highway. Lots of little critters out and about (skunks, raccoons and worst - porcupines) not to mention big critters - deer and moose.
 
#12 ·
I'm running the "stock" OEM headlight using the direct to battery/ w dual relays wired kit by Eastern Beaver. With either a "standard" H4 bulb (big improvement over stock) or with PIAA Extreme White or Sylvania Silverstar zXe or Ultra H4 bulbs (Super Improvement over stock) I have found that the added visibility is so overwhelming that I really don't see the need to add more. The Eastern Beaver kits are so good that I don't foresee needing or wanting to add any additional lights. That's just my opinion.
 
#13 ·
I'm running an HID replacement bulb (it came with the bike and hasn't died yet.) While there's no projector with it it's not offensively bright and I've never been flashed by oncoming drivers. I'm just looking for a longer throw distance than the stock reflector allows. I completely agree though that running an external relay and wiring and not using the stock loom is the way to go, regardless if you use a stock bulb or one of the PIAA / Silverstars / etc. When the HID dies I will likely replace it with this option.

As for opinions, I've asked everyone what they think so even if they say it's crap I've asked for it :)
 
#14 ·
:alcy:If you can't "hide them", and are unwilling to cut a hole in the fairing for them, maybe paint them so they don't stand out as much? But I'm kinda finicky on aesthetics. LOL
 
#16 ·
I'm NOT painting them BLUE!
 
#15 ·
Obo, Carryall, I really enjoy "sharing" with y'all. Carryall your bike rocks. Obo you and I ride exactly the same bike. Y'all's opinion means something to me.
 
#18 ·
Not sure why my attachment pics in this thread are showing to me as links only and not the pictures. *shrug*
 
#19 ·
that's all I got too
 
#20 ·


test upload

seems to work fine now *shrug*

fyi I owned one of these but it had different wheels.
 
#21 ·
Well I went with the smaller lights and removed the lower "bar" I had installed a few years back under the headlight.

Mounted with longer bolts and spacers in the front fairing mounting holes.

 
#22 ·
Looks better not being as obvious, I think anyways.
 
#23 ·
My personal concern would be while the light is on the "closeness" to the turn signal may cause oncoming drivers to not see the signal. The eyes always naturally follow and focus on the brighter light beam. A distraction. Just a thought.
 
#24 ·
It's fine, I've checked. Plus like I said earlier these are not conspicuity lights and on all the time. I have the lower fork mounted ones for that. These are just for seeing better on those late night rides when there's nothing oncoming, and they work well (having been already been night drive tested)

Here's the fork conspicuity lights with the main headlight off. These run whenever the bike is on as they are tied into the front parking lights.




And with the headlight on.



I'll post a pic of all the lights with the new side ones when I get a chance.
 
#25 ·
Do they pull much "juice"? Think the charging system is taxed, or "maxed out" with all your lights running at neutral/idle especially with the heated grips and such Obo?
 
#26 · (Edited)
I have a temperature/voltage meter that plugs into my 12v socket to make sure I'm not overtaxing my system.



I also just bought an add on voltmeter I havn't installed yet.



As for draw, the grips draw 12w min - 24w on max and the new lights draw 20w (10w, 900 lumens each.) The fork mounted conspicuity lights only draw 1 watt (1/2w, 100 lumens each) The old light bar under the headlight that I just removed drew 18w (1400 lumens) and combined with the grips etc never gave me any issues. I've not checked yet to see if the extra 2w makes any difference.

I'm saving a few watts with the HID headlight and the rear tail & brake LED's, and usually don't run the grips and side led's together or all the time.

If I burn out the alternator I'll just put in the upgraded one :)
 
#27 ·
I forgot about the LEDs and removal of the lightbar. I know my heated jacket liner pulls some juice.
 
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#28 ·
The only thing I have that hooks up and runs off the battery is one that plugs into the SAE style connector that is used to plug in my Deltran Battery tender and uses a twin USB connector to charge my phone/ GPS unit that I have a tank bag (Cortech) or a handlebar mount (RAM). I do have a higher output stator in my stockpile of replacement/ upgrade parts I have on hand.
 
#29 ·
No issues with signals being seen in the daytime *if* I was running them as DRL's, which I am not.

Here are pics comparing the dimmer park lights with the driving lights on. The turn signals are noticeably brighter. I also tried to get into the lights hot spot in the camera when I took the photos.


 
#30 ·
Here's the changes I've had over the years from incandescent to LED's, excluding pics of the latest ones above.

 
#31 ·
And just for giggles, here's all the rear LED's. Triple LED bar under the top case, 2 LED tail lamps, and a 6LED reflector. I replaced the stock rear reflector with one that had 6 LED's in it. All are wired as both running and brake lights.



So the current forward facing setup is an HID headlight, 2 fork mounted conspicuity lights, amber park lights and 2 fairing mounted LED driving lights.
Rearward facing is the main tail light, triple light top bar, and reflector light.

This gives me a triangle of light in the front (excluding driving lights on) as well as an inverted triangle in the rear.

I'm a bit of a safety nerd when it comes to being seen on my bike. Rather be seen than hit!