Should be under warranty still if you bought it brand new. Take it to the dealership that you got it from and have them take a look at it

 

Actually, just after I posted this I did just that. I have the regular warranty and the extended warranty. They test drove it twice while I was there trying to repo my steps with no success. They said the mechanics the bike feels perfect but said if I am still able to repo it to just come by and they will start logging a case for Kawasaki at the dealership. I did drop the bike (Yes already , just some fairings cracked), but the dealership said that wouldnt cause any of the issues im describing with the minor front fairing damage I have.

 

Is the chain binding? The alignment of the chain? Any wear on the chain? Is the chain dry?

 

Hey jeepincbum, The bike is new so there shouldnt be any wear on chain or sprocket. I did just clean and use chain wax about 150 miles prior and after a quick inspection the chain wax still seems to be on the chain (Is it possible maybe I have to much chain wax?). Do you have any suggestions how I can check for chain binding?

Thanks for the help!

 

I agree with a new bike there shouldn't be any wear (assuming) you have been maintaining the chain every 400 miles. I thought maybe there was a bent link or something that was causing your issue at higher speeds. Was trying to think of other ideas to check. To check for wear on the chain you will need to do a visual inspection to see if anything is rubbing or kinking. I doubt you will notice anything since you mentioned that it happens under load while riding it. Do you have stands to put the bike off the ground so you can run it and view from the side?

 

Could you rule out whether it's a throttling issue or a gearing issue?

Try this: on third gear, throttle up from 3k-10k rpms without shifting gears. Do you experience any skipping? If so, it's probably a throttling issue -- maybe the engine was not properly broken in. Do a leakdown test to be sure.

Try this #2: at speed (about 7k-8k rpms any gear), do a quickshift (throttle down then shift up a gear without pulling the clutch lever then throttle up to 7k-8k rpms). Do you experience any skipping? If so, it's probably a gearing issue -- maybe the gears were not properly broken in. Do an oil change and check the oil filter for metal shavings to be sure.

If it's not one or the other (throttling or gearing) issue, then I find your case indeed mind boggling.

 

I bought the bike with 0 miles and did the first 500 miles around 4k, going easy. At 500 miles I had the first service/oil change and from 500-900 I did up to 6k and a lot more rev ranging. After 900 miles to now I will occasionally take it to about 8-9k rpm.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will try those 2 steps in a day or two and get back to you, thanks for the advice!!!

Also, do you have any recommendation for when the second oil change, I think that manual said 3.5k miles but I could be wrong

 

Check your clutch lever free-play. Maybe it's how you are using the clutch.

 

Actually when I first got the bike from the dealer, the clutch free play was about 14mm. The manual said it should be about 2-3mm. That was causing me all kinds of shifting problems, I discovered that after having it a couple of days, after making the adjustment to the manual spec I havent had any issue. I also took it to another nearby dealer for him to check the clutch and they said it was properly set (For what thats worth).

 

I do have stands, ill give it a try it cant hurt. Thanks

 

I think it might be something you're doing. Is there any chance of you recording yourself riding and reproducing this error?

 

I do think thats a possibility too, though I owned a bike for 5 years did the MSF course, I took a 8 year break before getting my Ninja 650. So I still consider myself at a level of a beginner. After the dealer test drove it two separate times and accelerated hard on it they said mechanically the bike works perfect. Im going to try BlueSentra's steps and see if one of the two repo the problem, ill update the post either way. Thanks!

 

You don't actually need to change the engine oil. Get a clean basin, recover the clean oil and reuse (just top off within spec level). You, however, will have to replace the oil filter with a new one (to check metal shavings) -- it's cheap insurance.

WHen having difficulty pinpointing what the problem IS, try ruling out what the problem IS NOT. Start from cheapest (clutch lever play) then to the more expensive (change oil filter), and so on.

Yep, tons of ideas this forum is loaded with. DOn't be afraid to ask. Boring topics there are none, only boring forumers. hihi

EDIT: You may not be aware of it, but you're already contributing to the community -- by sharing your mind boggling predicament. Please do let us know what happens. ThankS!

 

I just have one comment. SLOW DOWN!

For a person who considers themselves still a newbie, you sure do ride aggressively. I really don't want to read about the wreck, or the parts you broke on the bike and can't afford to fix.

Carry on.

 

Steady on old chap! In the bio-diverse world of motorcycling the squid plays an important and essential role. Were it not for the squid - so many would not have lessons to learn about how not to ride. The squid also plays an important role in the nations' economy - without the squid, millions of dollars in motorcycle parts would be languishing on dealers and suppliers shelves. So much so that it could even impact national GDP! Furthermore, the squid helps to keep many people gainfully employed. Without the squid, paramedics, police, emergency service workers, nurses, doctors, and prosthesis manufactures would be laying about all day with nothing to do. The squid ensures that they actually work for their money. Then, of course, there is the squid's contribution to pharmaceutical companies, contributions which are often both endless and lifelong. I say...honour the squid!