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Oil dejur

API SE, SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA
Viscosity SAE 10W-40

As per the shop manual. And the information on the Castrol site shows that the automotive grade doesn't meet the JASO MA rating.

I love the oil controversies, I fix car for a living in the aftermarket and it is a never ending saga.
 
Has anyone used the Rotella? I drained my oil need to replace some parts before i refill it so not sure what kind of oil i should use.
I am going to use Rotella T6 5w-40 full syn on my bike this week when I get my rear stand. I am also going with a purolator pureone PL14612. I have ready in many places that the wet clutch really loves this oil. Its 19 bucks at walmart for a gallon so if I dont like it ill just go get Mobil 1.
 
I am going to use Rotella T6 5w-40 full syn on my bike this week when I get my rear stand. I am also going with a purolator pureone PL14612. I have ready in many places that the wet clutch really loves this oil. Its 19 bucks at walmart for a gallon so if I dont like it ill just go get Mobil 1.
I did this exact same thing back when I first changed the oil and will be doing it from now on as well. I've had zero problems with this combo. The only thing was I didn't use a rear stand. It was still just as easy.

Mike
 
I'll be doing this very soon (just bought 3Q's of Motul 3000 and a HIFLO filter).
Do you check the oil level with the bike on the stands or on the ground? If I remember correctly the level looks lower than it actually is on the stands (or the other way around).
Also, how important is torquing the filter and drain plug? Can I just spin the filter on then another quarter turn? I have a beam style wrench but it's 0-150 ft/lbs...can't imagine that would be accurate at all for these low readings
 
Also, how important is torquing the filter and drain plug? Can I just spin the filter on then another quarter turn?
I can honestly say that I've never torqued an oil filter or drain plug ever in my life. I've done countless oil changes and never had an issue with it. Just put the filter on hand tight and maybe a 1/4 turn more. And the drain plug, just do it snug, there's no reason to be like Hercules on it...
 
^Yeah, that's what I did...no torque wrench.
What a PITA getting the filter off. I've read time and time again how tight (over-tight) the filters are put on at dealerships. For some reason I thought mine would be different, nope. I went to napa 3 times and tried filter wrenches to no avail...finally resorted to the 'ol screwdriver through the filter trick.
Other than the filter, everything went great! Excellent guide on changing oil.
Now I'm gonna ride with the lowers off for a bit for the hell of it.
 
Awesome write-up! The whole thing was pretty painless. I used the Mobil 1 10W40 motorcycle oil depicted here, and a Mobil 1 M1-110 filter. Bike runs great, seems a lot smoother.

Found everything I needed at either Autozone, or Advance Auto Parts.

Thanks!
 
All good info here for the most partnIm not an oil expert, but have been told that MC oil has extra detergents or something thats to handle the microscopic partical of clutch plate floating aound in the oil. Yet another real plus to a dry clutch. In my Ducatis I run Agip, but Mobil one is great lube! Currently use Kawasaki Synthetic in the 650R and the wifes 250R. Has anyone tried one of the Reusable oil filters systems? They run between $90-$100, Just remove the mesh filter, flush it and reinstall. If you put a lot of miles on your Ninjet this could pay for it self...
 
Does anyone use, suggest using, or not using royal purple 10W40. The local parts store keeps it in stock, and I know it is a very good synthetic oil. Other than this, the only 10W40 synthetic I can find readily available is Castrol Syntec, and I have already had bad experiences with Castrol foaming up and burning off at high RPMs with my supercharged civic. I like Duckman am a Mobil 1 user through and through, but the $11 a quart price, and the fact that it is not so easy to get ahold of around here is why I am considering Royal P. Any Thoughts?
I'm limited in my oil selection depending on what Autozone, O' Reilly's, Pep Boys, and Walmart carry. The only royal purple I have found was at O'Reiley's and it was the regular royal purple motoroil.

Doing research:

A premium quality motorcycle engine oil can be stated to meet the requirements of API Service Classification SJ, SH, SG, SF, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF and CD. Note that SH, SF, SG and CD are now obsolete. Motorcycles specifying an oil meeting any of the obsolete applications can use an oil with the newer classification oil because it includes, and supersedes, the requirements of the obsolete service classification.

All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles that specify the JASO-MB specification. If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, We recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle.

References: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

The 650R manual says:
API SE, SF or SG,
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA


Royal purple says it's 10w-40 Automotive MotorOil meets SL.
There is no mention of meeting JASO MA.
See product sheet: http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil-pp.html

Royal purple also has a motorcycle version called Maxi-Cycle
See product sheet: http://www.royalpurple.com/motorcycle-oil-pp.html

Royal Purple claims that "Max-Cycle exceeds API / JASO new warranty
requirements and is compatible with other mineral and synthetic motor oils." And then adds that "no flushing is necessary prior to use."
On my 1st oil change I used the walmart supertech brand. Next I used Castrol Syntec and that stuff did foam in the winter and the clutch felt more slippery. The oil change after that was mobile-1 4t specifically for motorcycles and the clutch feel was the same as the Castrol Syntec. At about 10500 miles,I decided to switch back to dino oil. Got the cheap 10w40 Autozone brand @ 2 bucks a quart. The clutch feels grippier now and the engine seems to run smoother. Go figure. I'll try royal purple for cars on the next 3000 miles and tell you how the clutch feels after that. If I don't like it, I'll flush it with dino.
 
Has anyone tried one of the Reusable oil filters systems? They run between $90-$100, Just remove the mesh filter, flush it and reinstall. If you put a lot of miles on your Ninjet this could pay for it self...
Supposedly the holes in the element of the reusable filter are a few sizes larger than those that have the paper element.

The reusable oil filter might be worth it during the bike's break in period but that's just a theory on my part.
 
Huh. So was bored and decided to read this. He talks about a drain plug washer.. I don't recall seeing/having one in the two oil changes that I've done on my bike.. I guess I should probably get one?
The parts guy at the last dealer I went to to buy some stuff specifically told me to make sure I have one as they had several people bring their bikes in after doing their own oil change and forgetting the washer. Apparently without the washer you can easily over-tighten the bolt and crack the case. He said 3 people came in in the last month having done that and were now looking at several thousand dollar repairs.

As for the oil discussion, if you're using car oil you need to make sure the oil does not contain friction modifiers as this will mess with your clutch. Shell Rotella T6 is a full synthetic (hydrocracked group III, not group IV - I have no idea what hydrocracked means btw) that is usually fairly easy to find, not terribly priced, and meets the JASO, etc requirements of motorcycles (they just recently added this designation to the bottle about a year ago I think). Plus I can use it all 3 of my vehicles if I want to although it would probably leak a bit out of my old Porsche. I've been meaning to do an oil change on my bike with this oil but I haven't gotten around to it in awhile due to being away from home on business most of the winter.
 
Well I'd really hope that I haven't done this yet then. I picked one up from the dealership for $1.02 though.

And as for oil, I guess I should let inform my brother about this as I believe he has put royal purple engine oil in his last bike and let him be aware as to the problems that some may cause.
 
Note: Royle Purple makes a ATV/Motorcycle oil for wet clutch design. I would imagine that since our bike are semi wet clutch this would qualify. I personally have not got enough miles on my machine to switch to syn yet. When I do it will be Royal Purple Motorcycle wet clutch formula. I ran this in my Sport atv when i had it with a mechanical and later, hydraulic clutch system. And man smooth shifting and great grip when the clutch was engaged.

Just my .02

And like in the first post by the creator, Torque wrench on the oil bolt. Once of prevention is a pound of cure.
 
I'm not sure it was ATV/Motorcycle Royle Purple oil but regardless I'll give him a heads up so he knows. I plan on going to pick up a torque wrench today so I'll have one for future oil changes since I have other projects coming up that I'll need one for as well.
 
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