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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well boys and girls I'm a bit bored today, the wife and kids are out of town and it's been down pouring for 2 days straight so riding isn't in the game! Most of you know how to do this, but pics are always good to look at, at least I think so :boxing:.

If you ever find the dreaded ''Red X'' please go here Magnum to be directed to my site.

I made the switch to full synthetic oil and high flow oil filter.

Yet again minimal tools required:

- Torque Wrench
- Ratchet
- 17MM Socket / Socket Extension
- 4MM Hex Wrench or Socket
- Oil Filter Wrench [Cup] for oil filter removal
- Oil of your choice [I suggest you get 3 quarts if you don’t have extra of the same brand on hand]
- Oil Filter of your choice
- Drain Plug Washer Part # 92065-097


I put the bike on the front and rear stands I have, but you can do this without stands. Start by briefly warming the engine, and then remove the lower fairing. Use a screwdriver or similar to pry out the plastic pin and then pull the snaps out. There are three total, one in the front and two underneath:


I put the bike on the front and rear stands I have, but you can do this without stands. Start by briefly warming the engine, and then remove the lower fairing. Use a screwdriver or similar to pry out the plastic pin and then pull the snaps out. There are three total, one in the front and two underneath:



Now remove these three hex bolts, they are 4MM:



Now pull out from the bottom of the lower fairing and work it off, you only need to remove the lower right side fairing. Take note of this clips that attached the upper fairing to the lower fairing, see arrow:



Now prepare to change the oil. We'll first remove 1 the oil filler plug, then 2 the oil drain plug and finally three the oil filter:



Unscrew the oil filler plug:



Now take your 17MM socket and wrench and remove the oil drain plug:



Once loose you can just use your fingers to remove. BE CAREFUL of hot oil:



Now let the oil drain while you take the oil filter off:



Ok onto the oil filter, boy am I glad I had this oil filter cup because the dealer sure did put the oil filter on tight at my 600 mile service. There is no way I could have removed this by hand. Fit the cup on the oil filter and remove filter. Take care of the oil that will drain so you don't get oil all over the header:



Let it drain. After removing the oil filter I let the bike sit for 5 minutes or so to get rid of as much oil as possible:



Now get ready to put the new oil filter on. Open one of the new bottles of oil and apply some of the oil from the cap to the oil filters o-ring [gasket]:



Like so:



Now fit the oil filter cup on the new oil filter and screw the oil filter on by hand:



Like so, just hand tight for now is good:



Now fit your torque wrench on the oil filter cup and torque the oil filter to 13 ft. lbs.:



Now either take the new drain plug washer and put it onto the drain bolt, or search through your oil pan to find the one that probably fell off:



Like this, mine happen to not come off with the drain bolt and fell into the oil. Glad I bought a new one for the whopping $.39 the dealer charges. Not to mention the old washer had some grooves on it so I would not have reused it anyway. On a side note, I am surprised how dirty this oil is the dealer did the 600 mile service and I only have 2,304 miles on it now. Hmm, I haven't seen dino oil in years as I run full synthetic in my cars, but this **** looks filthy:



Alright the oil is drained, so let's get ready to button up the rest of it. Take your new washer, drain bolt and screw it in hand tight and then torque it to 22 ft. lbs.:



Now fill it up with oil:



Alright after 2 quarts all looks good. Start up the bike and let it circulate for a few minutes:



Then shut it down and let it set for a few more minutes to allow the oil to drain down. Well WTF, 1.9 quarts my ***, I added a bit more oil. So in total I put just a little more than 2 quarts back in:



And finally a mileage shot 2,304 and the switch to full synthetic is on!:




Disclaimer: This information is presented with no liability or guarantee expressed or implied, work at your own risk.
 

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Nice job! BTW. 1.9 liters, not 1.9 quarts. There's your answer.


1 liter = 1.06 U.S. quarts
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Right, but the manual says 2 US Quarts when filter is removed! So if only bought 2 quarts I would be short.
 

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noob question

Right, but the manual says 2 US Quarts when filter is removed! So if only bought 2 quarts I would be short.
Hey, please dont beat me up. But I'm new to the motorcycle world ( 1 week old). Bought a used 2006 Ninja 650r. No manual came with it. When the bike is on it's side, I didnt see any oil in the window by the rear brake. I'm assuming that is the oil level window.

When I asked the seller, he said he had it changed 2000 mi before. Is this normal? Do bikes need oil between oil changes?

Also, what kind of oil can i add? I've heard any auto oil would work. I dont have the manual so I can really confirm. So if someone can give me some specs on what oil is recommended, it's be greatly greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Hey, please dont beat me up. But I'm new to the motorcycle world ( 1 week old). Bought a used 2006 Ninja 650r. No manual came with it. When the bike is on it's side, I didnt see any oil in the window by the rear brake. I'm assuming that is the oil level window.

When I asked the seller, he said he had it changed 2000 mi before. Is this normal? Do bikes need oil between oil changes?

Also, what kind of oil can i add? I've heard any auto oil would work. I dont have the manual so I can really confirm. So if someone can give me some specs on what oil is recommended, it's be greatly greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

when your bike is on it's stand you are not suppose to see any oil. you have to straighten the bike to check for correct level. so that's nothing to worry about
 

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when your bike is on it's stand you are not suppose to see any oil. you have to straighten the bike to check for correct level. so that's nothing to worry about
thanks man. appreciate it.

in terms of the oil, the picture shows a 10W40, i'm assuming I can also put some car oil in it too righ? Also i noticed the image above says, after we're done, that you torque to 22 ft/lb...how the hell do i do that? are there wrenches that do that?
 

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Do yourself a favor and buy some motorcycle oil rated for wet clutches as well as engines. It's only a few dollars more. Just hop down to your closest motorcycle shop and tell them that you have a kawi EX650... they can look up your oil filter and engine oil for you...
 

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thanks guys for all your help. Really do appreciate the quick responses on this forum. As you guys predicted (you can tell i was really knew) that oil level was showing nothing because it was on it's side. when I had it up, the oil level was between the two marks. pheww!!

now time to hunt for some cheap scratch less side/lower black fairings...any suggestions please pm me, i dont want to keep bumpgin this thread for the wrong reason.

other than that, thanks guys. i'm sure i'll be posting soon for something else..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Do yourself a favor and buy some motorcycle oil rated for wet clutches as well as engines. It's only a few dollars more. Just hop down to your closest motorcycle shop and tell them that you have a kawi EX650... they can look up your oil filter and engine oil for you...
+1

Don't buy car motor oil. I'll save my rant!
 

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+1

Don't buy car motor oil. I'll save my rant!
I was going to rant, but thought twice and decided to just let him run it the way he wants... personally I would NEVER run straight car oil in any motorcycle. They make motorcycle oil for a reason. You wouldn't put an oil meant for wet clutches into a car engine, so why would you put auto oil in a motorcycle engine that has a wet clutch? Simple, you wouldn't.
 

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So those of you that run synthetic oil. Are you running synthetic motorcycle oil or are you running auto synthetic oil? Just curious because there is like a $7 per quart difference, depending on brand.
 

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Wet clutches are designed to work with std engine "oil". Theres been wet clutches in bikes using std min based "car oils" since before most here were born(like my 71 Penton, or 73 CR125's, etc). Doesn't have to be 'bike specific'. If there 'truly' is such a thing.. The reason some think bike oil brands are better...is more because of 'transmisson shear forces'. A bikes oil is ALSO the trans oil. In a car, this isn't the case, being serperated. Now a given oil has TWO duties at hand.This DOES lead to early viscosity breakdown in your typical traditional mineral based oils.

Then syn oils came about. I remember about 15yrs ago, a bike mag did a test. They used std min based racing oils, multi bike specific brands(most made claims of having additives for trans shear forces), std oils, etc, and a 'then relatively new' highend syn car oil(Mobile 1). After about 2k most all oils lost a huge amt of its effective viscosity(something like on average of 70-80%). The ONLY oil in the test that didn't(it was more like 10-20%) was the Mobile 1. It was waaaaay ahead of the 'bike based' stuff. Really surprised the bike mag guys. Good 'nuff for me. My last bike used Mobile 1 only and(89 GSXR750) lasted 12 seasons with zero issues. Sold it to a friend with about 40k of HARD riding/racing on it. He still rides it, altho I know he recently blew up the tranny :).

Having said all that, when I was racing hard and heavy(FZ750,FZR1000 superbikes) before all that above, I used Valoline 10-40 racing oil. Min based "car oil". Just swapped it out every few sprint races(100 miles total?).

I still only use Mobile 1 in the bike, bought at my nearest car parts.
 

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Duckman, you say you use Mobil 1 for your bike do you use 10W40? I can't find Mobil 1 10W40. All I can find in Mobil 1 10W40 is motorcycle racing synthetic and it runs about $11 a quart.
 

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Your right. Its 0W40. Don't tell Kawaski. Figured here in the relative cool WNC mtns.. Only reason really, is I'm pretty insolated and haven't found a local outlest for the bike specific Mobile 1 10W40.

I used 10W30 in the Gixxer all those yrs since thats what we sold(Grainger Ind Supply).

Now I'm not saying that std car spec oil is better. Just that it will serve nicely if its good highend stuff and replaced at proper intervals(of course). I've been a Mobile 1 whore for a long time(well, ever since that bike mag test), and use it in everything around here if poss.

I bet the 0W40 gets better mileage tho...
 

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Does anyone use, suggest using, or not using royal purple 10W40. The local parts store keeps it in stock, and I know it is a very good synthetic oil. Other than this, the only 10W40 synthetic I can find readily available is Castrol Syntec, and I have already had bad experiences with Castrol foaming up and burning off at high RPMs with my supercharged civic. I like Duckman am a Mobil 1 user through and through, but the $11 a quart price, and the fact that it is not so easy to get ahold of around here is why I am considering Royal P. Any Thoughts?
 

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Don't really know how it would work in the bike, but if it does as good as it does in my Nissan Titan, then I am in. I noticed an increase in longevity(life) of the oil and it might just be me, but my truck seamed to idle a little lower. It too is kinda on the pricey side, but you get whet you pay for. Just my 2 cents

hvyjnkr
 

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$22.00 a year is not at all expensive to keep your bike running good. Think of a good oil as cheap insurance for your bike! Just make sure you are putting in motorcycle oil ment for wet clutches and not regular auto oil...
 
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