Execlent!!!!.... can you decribe the install a little??? PICS???

Was it still $44.95???

And what's your setup???? Meaning...
Do you have an after market pipe, jet kit, and EGR removed, # of shims, # of turns on the fule/air screws, and what's your altitude????

Now where's my credit card!!!!

Chris :headbang:

 

Chris sorry no pics

Price $49.95 plus shipping (my total $55.20)

Factory provides no instuctions but Install is a snap:
Remove Ignition Cover (right side) held on by two 8mm bolts.
Remove Ignition Rotor, one 17mm bolt; Thats it!
Torque Rotor bolt to 29 ft-lb (per manual)
The Ignition Rotor will only go on one way (look at the splines)

My engine setup:
#110 main jets (up from original #108).
Needles are raised 2.5 mm.
Idle mixture screws 2.5 turns.
Two Brothers Can.
KN air filter with air box white foam restrictor removed.
I also index the spark plugs so the opening of the electrode is between the Intake and Exhuast Valves (Towards center of Cumbustion Chamber).
"Keep those carbs in sync"
I'm at sea level.

 

I'll just add that my fuel mileage is about 47 mpg.

 

Cool! Gotta order one to try out! Thanks for the info.

 

dsbrod,
please give us an occasional update on your experience with this. My bike is set-up similarly to yours, and the advancer would seem to be a simple, inexpensive way to make the bike a little snappier.

Thanks.

dayglo

 

Best regards Team and pardon my ignorance but what's the function of the "Ignition advancer".....? If it's so good why is not standard from the factory...?

 

The Ignition Advance Rotor doesn't really advance the timing "per say", The Ignition Advance curve is controlled by the IC Ignitor (Black box under the seat) which control/sets the advance curve based on inputs from the K-Tric Sensor (amount of throttle applied) in relation to Engine RPM. With this information the IC Ignitor Advances the timing (fires the plugs) from a known base setting, This base setting is supplied from the "Ignition Rotor".

Example:
If the Rotor is set for "0" degees BTDC the advance applied by the IC Ignitor is added from that point (IC adds 10 degrees, 10 + 0 = 10 degrees total advance)

If the Rotor is set for "4" degees BTDC the advance applied by the IC Ignitor is added from that point (IC adds 10 degrees, 10 + 4 = 14 degrees total advance)

For more info on why to advance the timing look at a post I wrote under "ordered Ignition Advance"

This is the Best Bang for the Buck. Feels like I gained another 100cc

 

DSB,
Has there been any affect on engine vibration at the different RPM levels? I've been told advancing the spark may cause the engine to lose some smoothness in the high RPM range. What's your experience at this point?

Also, is detonation a possibility with the earlier spark? Are you running higher octane gas, or would 87 suffice?

dayglo

 

This is the Best Bang for the Buck. Feels like I gained another 100cc

SOLD!!!!!!!! :FIREdevil

I also index the spark plugs so the opening of the electrode is between the Intake and Exhuast Valves (Towards center of Cumbustion Chamber)

Is there a trick for doing this? How much of a differance will it make??

Chris :headbang:

 

Just ordered it, it will be here in 2 days!!!!

Chris :headbang:

 

DSB & TOM: Thanks for the explanation ...! DSB: I also read your first post. Very interesting stuff...! You never stop learning every time you visit this board....! But according with what I read, this modification will increase the temp. in the motor, right....? Will that (the high cylinder temp.) be OK....?

I already removed the EGR and open the "pilot" screws 2.5 turns out...Do I need to change those settings back....?

This is the link to the "Ignition advancer" @ Factory Pro:

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodk76.html


Thanks and ride safe...!

 

I got a go and I'm going to be busy the next couple of days so I will try to answer some questions quick:

Vibration:
I feel no increase in Vibs, Remember keep the Carbs in Sync.

Pinging:
To prevent it I recommend you use 93 octane. To test for it you have to load the engine. Find a nice little and drive up it in 5th gear low RPM.

Temp:
Heat is power You won't overheat, at idle temp will probably decrease

Carb:
Keep the screws at the point that works best

EGR:
This is misnamed it is not a EGR Valve. EGR is "Exhuast Gas Recirculation Valve" an EGR takes Exhuast Gas and puts it back into the cumbustion chamber to reduce cylinder temps to prevent the formation of Nox Emissions.
The Valve on the ZR (I forget the name) takes fresh are from the air box puts it into the exhuast to burn off any unburned fuel of cumbustion. We take off/bypass the Valve because of backfiring when the factory muffler is removed. (topic for another time)

Plugs:
Keeping the opening of the plugs towards the center helps reduce misfires. Hotrodders and Racers been doing it for years will it help the ZR, Well it won't hurt. (topic for another time)
There is a enough compression in the plug washer to do this

Thats it got a go

 

Question

DSBROD,

I think I have an idea, but I have to ask...

indexed? the spark plugs?

 

Question!?!?!?!

Ok, it's here... looks simple enough..... and I almost feel retarded asking this question but....

What it the trick to getting the 17mm bolt off (and back on)?????? seems like I am just turning the engine (yes I put it in gear) Is there some tool that I need to use in the 2 holes on the roter??? Or can I just jam a screw driver in there???? I just don't want to do any damage!!!!


Chris :headbang:

 

Never Mind

I was to impaitent to wai for someone to respond. I went with the screw driver method....worked fine!!!

I took it out for a 10 min test ride after the install. Definatly seems a little more snappy, nothing dramatic, but a noticable differance.

Chris :headbang:

 

Chris, dsbrod,

Did you put the bike on a dyno to compare before and after resuts?
Any drop in HP anywhere in the rev range could mean pinging (detonation) ie potential engine damage.
Any pinging apparent, especially when lugging it with a passenger up a hill in a high gear?
Any need to use a higher octane fuel?

James

 

I have run 93 octane form day one, personal prefrance.

I think I will try to get a pull on the Dyno before I store it for the winter. I don't have any before data, but it will be nice to see where it's at!!!

I am just about to the limit on mods I can make to this bike short of MAJOR engine mods. But that's why god invented the ZR1000!!!

Chris :headbang:

 

Chris

Glad you got the 17mm Bolt off, I didn't realize it would be a problem (I cheated; Air Tools).

On my first test ride it was a little hard to feel a major increase in performance (I drove it Hard). Like you stated "snappy". But after riding for several miles (normally) The drivabilty benefits are clear as I stated in a earlier post and throttle response is better than ever.

 

On my first test ride it was a little hard to feel a major increase in performance (I drove it Hard). Like you stated "snappy". But after riding for several miles (normally) The drivabilty benefits are clear as I stated in a earlier post and throttle response is better than ever.

I agree... I rode it "normally" to work today and home for lunch and back. It has much better response than it did before. I am going to see if I can get a dyno run setup in the next few weeks.


Chris :headbang:

 

Mine just came in the mail today... I'll try it out this weekend and report back...

 

Best regards Team:

JAREL: Please can you post some pictures of the process/parts involved.....?

 

Will do Rob!!

 

I ordered one today. I can't pass up a performance mod.:headbang:

 

Ok, the install is done and I've placed the install guide on ZR-7.com. Go to the maintenance tips page and you'll find it there. I took a before and after ride, and I can tell a difference in the throttle response. It's nothing earth-shattering but for a "tinkering" junkie it's enough to feed the habit!

 

Jarel I did not receive the new ignition rotor yet but I went ahead and removed the cover and loosened the stock rotor. My question is, is it possible to flip the rotor over and install it wrong?:thud: Or is there wrighting only on one side that makes that side the shown side? I should get it tommorrow. Thank's for the help! Kim