Huh. Anything in the manual to help? A troubleshooting section maybe?

 

Why did you check all the fuses? You might want to look in the service manual at the electrical diagram and see which fuse goes to that circuit. Then pull that fuse and replace it. The fuse may not look bad but it could be. But then I would be concerned as to why the fuse blew. You been doing any work in that area recently?
Also, check the wiring connections for that circuit, and then check the harness itself to make sure you don't have an exposed wire.

This is the first I have heard of this on a bike without a dead battery.

 

Why did you check all the fuses? You might want to look in the service manual at the electrical diagram and see which fuse goes to that circuit. Then pull that fuse and replace it. The fuse may not look bad but it could be. But then I would be concerned as to why the fuse blew. You been doing any work in that area recently? Also, check the wiring connections for that circuit, and then check the harness itself to make sure you don't have an exposed wire. This is the first I have heard of this on a bike without a dead battery.

Diagram only shows instrument cluster as a unit!

 

I was searching between the three forums, forget where I saw it but someone was having the same problem with an old battery. I am pretty sure the battery in my bike is original so that could be the culprit. It's been like this since I first got the bike, and the bike only had 250 miles when I got it so I don't think it's a matter of work or anything. Everything else works fine.

 

The battery has enough juice to start the bike, but not enough to keep a mA circuit going? Curious.

 

You need a new battery.

 

Care to elaborate?

 

Only time I've had my clock and trip meters reset is when the battery was out of my bike for a while. So my vote would also be the battery is the issue.

 

There has to be a "keep alive" voltage feed for the clock, that doesn't shut off when the bike is turned off. First thing that I'd do, in your position, is check the fuses thoroughly. Then, if I didn't find any bad fuses, I would pull off the connector to the display and check for corrosion. It's unlikely to be the battery, if the bike starts well, but a constantly live line will be more prone to corrosion.

 

Starting the bike makes the voltage drop, mine was doing the same thing, I cleaned the battery terminals and connecting wire ends and that fixed the problem. Battery is 6 ye4ars old so a new one is in order. When I had the problem i checked the cranking voltage and it was less than 8 volts.

 

That would make sense. Doesn't the meter hold the time/trip meters if the battery is disconnected for a short period, though? Or does it lose it as soon as the battery is disconnected?

I know the one time I removed my meter it lost those things but mine was off for a few days.

 

I have this same problem. I ride daily and the trip will sometimes reset. Although the problem is speratic and won't happen on every start

 

You might have a loose battery terminal connection. Check that out.

 

Loose or bad battery, check cables or replace battery if that doesn't work.

 

I am having the same problem. I have checked the cables and did replace the battery. Everything was good for about 3 days going back and forth to work. Then the forth day not enough juice to turn over the engine.

 

In that case I would point to the charging system. Your alternator might be dead. There are extensive tests explained in the manual. Do you run high-power accessories?

 

I will look at my fsm tomorrow. I don't have anything running on the bike.

 

Same thing happening here. Trip odo and clock reset after the bike has sat overnight (16 hrs). But, they do not reset when I park it in between commute (7 hrs). This started happening about a week ago... I was wondering why I wasn't racking up the miles like I used to! Trip A was resetting, which made guessing when to fill up a chore.

I only run some small LED in my givi bags.

Bike still has enough juice to crank over fine, however the battery *is* 4 years old. Time for a new one?

 

the battery *is* 4 years old. Time for a new one?

Probably. But every bike owner should have a multi-meter and a small battery maintainer; total cost, maybe $40.
If you presently have neither, check the connections to that battery and start shopping for a new one.
If you get an AGM type it should last MUCH longer.

At some point, you need to check the charging voltage.

 

Thanks ER. I do keep the battery charged up over the winter months. A multi-meter, its one of those tools I think I should have, but would not know what to do with it
I'm just a simple caveman, and your world of "electricity" frightens and confuses my primitive mind.

Edit:OK. I picked up a multimeter.....I'm going off to youtube to learn what I just got, but if anyone wants to chime in with what I should be doing with it, thanks in advance.

 

You could do like I do, use it for a tool box space taker upper! I can take it out when people are around and look really smart and professional. Lol

Seriously, I kind-of know how to use it, just not every setting for what situation.

 

My bet is with Papa_Complex -- the "keep alive" wire is probably loose (assuming the fuse is okay). It's the white/black wire going into the intstrument cluster for MY2009-2011, and the orange wire for MY2012-2014. You should measure +12volts from these wires (tap from the connectors, see service manual for details). If the "keep alive" wire measures +12volts, then it looks like the intrument cluster is now suspect.

 

Thanks, I will try & track down that wire today.

FWIW, battery was 12.4V, dropped to around 10 when cranking, and 14 & change at idle.

I noticed the positive terminal screw was finger loose, maybe 1-2 turns. Wonder if that could have been a potential cause?

 

I noticed the positive terminal screw was finger loose, maybe 1-2 turns. Wonder if that could have been a potential cause?

Yes absolutely.

Your initial reading of 12.4 is a bit low but not enough to cause trouble....even with the clock.
Tighten those cables. That will likely fix your problem.
The other readings are well within the range of "good".

 

If battery is showing good power, i would almost bet a loose connection. Definitely tighten it down and see if it's resolved.

 

FWIW it was the battery. Bike used to struggle to start, now with a new battery it cranks over in like 1 revolution if the engine is warm.

 

I tightened the terminals and left the battery on the charger for a day, so far, so good.