cylinder head gasket replacement

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cylinder head gasket replacement

This is a discussion on cylinder head gasket replacement within the ZR-7 Maintenance forums, part of the Kawasaki ZR-7 category; Hello me again with the head gasket replacement. Got the parts and I'm finally looking to tackle this thanksgiving weekend. If anyone has exact torqing ...

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  1. #1
    Up-And Comer electricblu750's Avatar
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    cylinder head gasket replacement

    Hello me again with the head gasket replacement. Got the parts and I'm finally looking to tackle this thanksgiving weekend. If anyone has exact torqing specs for this job and directions from the service manual on this it would be much much much appreciated.

  2. #2
    West Coast Moderator
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    Are you doing the head gasket or the valve cover gasket (just to be sure)?



    ZR-7OA #110
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  3. #3
    Up-And Comer electricblu750's Avatar
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    replacing the head gasket thank you.

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  5. #4
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    I don't have my manual anymore or I'd be able to help more. It's a pretty straight forward operation, though, but you will need torque specs and timing mark alignments (if you don't already have 'em).



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  6. #5
    Rising Star Cracker Jack's Avatar
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    Torque specs

    Cylinder head bolts: 22 ft-lb
    Cylinder head nuts: First; 16.5 ft-lb
    Final; 29 ft-lb

    There is tightening sequence for the nuts that essentially is counter-clockwise from the center outward. Starts left and forward of the chain. Ends at right rear. I wish I had the ability to send a pdf of this from page 3-18 of the factory manual.

    Jack
    Cracker Jack

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  7. #6
    Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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    For a job like this you should have a service manual. If you order it tomorrow from your dealer you should have it by thanksgiving weekend. you can also get them from www.buykawasaki.com or www.repairmanuals.com The price you pay for a manual could be chump change compared to a mistake you may make without it.
    Jon

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  8. #7
    Rising Star Cracker Jack's Avatar
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    Manual

    I agree with JonF. $60 or so seems a lot for this, but in a few years you'll wonder how you would have got on without it. Money well spent.

    Jack
    Cracker Jack

    74 Norton
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    83 GS750 (sold)
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  9. #8
    Maintenance Overlord graeme gould's Avatar
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    Most of the work is described under the valve clearance adjustment seen at www.zr-7.com under the maintenance section, including camshafts removal.

    What else needs to be removed?

    *exhaust headers
    *disconnect the carburetor bank connections....gg's just going to look at ZR-7,...can't see much more.

    Go www.kawasaki.com and look for the "spare parts diagrams" to show you all the parts you will be handling. Look fornsmall oval/rubber seals between the head and cylinders.

    Head and cylinder can be removed with the engine in the frame.

    Separation of head and cylinder can be tight due to the interconnecting dowels.

    A fairly straight forward job, but thoroughness is essential....keep all the parts labelled and replace parts in their original position eg head nuts/bolts.

    Keep us posted.

    This job has been done by Mojo and others, how well it was documented at the forum maybe found at "Search"

    [email protected]bb, ava good day
    Last edited by graeme gould; 11-13-06 at 11:23 PM. Reason: change words
    Graeme Gould at Byron Bay the most Easterly part of Australia

  10. #9
    Up-And Comer electricblu750's Avatar
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    Do you have to remove the cylinder head cover to remove the cylinder head or can they come off together?

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    Supreme Being Craig Jackman's Avatar
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    You have to remove the cams and slide the cam chain through the head to remove the head, so yes, the cam cover has to be removed.
    Craig Jackman - '03 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom - "The Vee"

    '02 ZR-7S "The Silver Seven" (note - obscure hockey reference) - SOLD MAY 2010

  12. #11
    Maintenance Overlord graeme gould's Avatar
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    G'day Jacko and electricblu

    electricblu go immediately to www.zr-7.com and look at the maintenance section...valve adjustment.

    From your above post, gg is a thinking you need a lot more info before starting the job. gg is trying to be encouraging, you need to do a bit more homework. It is not a hard job, but prior knowlege will make it easier.

    [email protected], ava good day
    Graeme Gould at Byron Bay the most Easterly part of Australia

  13. #12
    Up-And Comer electricblu750's Avatar
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    I havnt really done to much hw, I know. I did glance over that at zr-7.com. Been really busy lately. I'm going to thoroughly read through the procedures the first chance that I get. I have printed out parts diagrams. I'm just trying to gather some extra pointers so please everyone let me know as much as you can conveniently provide. Thanks to everyone for their contributions so far. I will definately post on how it all goes.

    ryan

  14. #13
    Maintenance Overlord graeme gould's Avatar
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    electricblu,

    gg's read the Manual and its spartan, so with gg's slow, speed typing will repeat it here.

    Cylinder Head Removal.

    *Remove
    Carburetors
    Camshaft tensioner
    Cylinder Head Cover
    Camshaft
    Exhaust Pipe and Muffler

    Remove cylinder head bolts (A)
    Remove cylinder head nuts (B)

    *Remove cylinder head

    NOTE

    Tap lightly with a rubber mallet if the cylinder head does not separate easily.

    gg's note, set the engine on TDC before starting the job this will be your reference point for replacing the camshafts in their correction position....there are alignment markings on the camshaft sprockets, these should be observed before removal of the camshafts

    Also the above nuts (A) are outside the engine space.
    the above bolts (B) are within the engine cavity...front and rear centre...two in number.

    electricblu, we are ready to go, torque wrench and torqueing sequence needed on asssembly.

    [email protected], ava good day
    Last edited by graeme gould; 11-18-06 at 09:29 PM. Reason: change words
    Graeme Gould at Byron Bay the most Easterly part of Australia

  15. #14
    Up-And Comer electricblu750's Avatar
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    Ok so i worked on this job yesterday and today and things seem to have went really well. Opted not to buy the service manual, but instead got my quite mechanically inclined neighbor, who has done work on his gixer, to help me. Borrowed inch/pound torque wrench and about three hours of his time. Smart and really nice guy. Couldn't of done it without him. Anyways so I'm down to the buttoning up part of the job. Just needed to know torque specs on the cam cap bolts and the cylinder head cover bolts. Cam cap bolts have been snugged pretty good and we turned the engine and everything is looking exactly the way it should. Was sure to put healthy dollups of oil on the valves and the cam so I should be good to go. I would also like to thank everyone on the board who has been helping and offering advice/encoragement.

  16. #15
    West Coast Moderator
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    I don't remember if the torque values are here, but there's alot of info.......

    http://www.zr-7.com



    ZR-7OA #110
    This map is informational only. No representation is made or warranty given as to its content or usability. User assumes all risk of use.

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