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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow ZR7S owners,
I have a 2003 Kawasaki ZR7S and it’s honestly probably the worst bike I’ve own to this date. This bike takes 10 minutes to warm up I’ve had the carbs cleaned twice!! The floats and seals have been changed. The bike somehow is always running rich or running incredibly lean. The choke can only be used for the first 20 seconds and then it starts struggling o stay on you move the choke off a bit and it just dies. I’ve cleaned the carbs and the tank out completely. Also peacock was changed. Sparks plugs were completely black when I replaced just two days ago so they are new now, but cylinder one after a few attempts was already having black stains. Any one willing to help?
 

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Welcome Rodrigo 🍻
I'm fairly new here as well. I bought one last winter and refurbished it including all you did plus new carb holders and air filter and more. Mine ran similar to what you describe when I bought it. It was the valve adjustment. (Hard starting is a symptom). They all were out of spec with a few too tight to get feeler gauges in. After the adjustment it started right up and idled well once warm.
This engine is cold blooded and you need the choke. You'll love it once you get it running right.

You can still buy the OEM carb holders and o-rings brand new but they may be hard to get. I had to search around.

There is an excellent tutorial here for adjusting the valves.
 

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How are the fuel levels in the bowls?? ..////and can you confirm the jetting/needles/emulsion tubes are stock? and assume still has the factory air box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome Rodrigo 🍻
I'm fairly new here as well. I bought one last winter and refurbished it including all you did plus new carb holders and air filter and more. Mine ran similar to what you describe when I bought it. It was the valve adjustment. (Hard starting is a symptom). They all were out of spec with a few too tight to get feeler gauges in. After the adjustment it started right up and idled well once warm.
This engine is cold blooded and you need the choke. You'll love it once you get it running right.

You can still buy the OEM carb holders and o-rings brand new but they may be hard to get. I had to search around.

There is an excellent tutorial here for adjusting the valves.
Thank Zed I’ll take a look it’s been a real rough ride will this motorcycle I’ve sunken a lot money into already. I’ll be sure to take a look at the t
How are the fuel levels in the bowls?? ..////and can you confirm the jetting/needles/emulsion tubes are stock? and assume still has the factory air box.
every things on the bike is completely stock it has 22k miles on it I got it when it had 18k
 

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Thank Zed I’ll take a look it’s been a real rough ride will this motorcycle I’ve sunken a lot money into already. I’ll be sure to take a look at the t

every things on the bike is completely stock it has 22k miles on it I got it when it had 18k
Yeah, do you know when the last valve adjustment was? This bike calls for 6000 mile intervals but as the miles build up, you can usually push it longer. I would check the valves before you tear into the carbs.

I bought mine with 19,000 miles on it. All stock. Good condition, it had never been abused but it had never been maintained so I had to do everything from brake rebuilds, carbs, valves, forks with performance damper rods from Traxxion Dynamics. Too much to list.
About $1300 in parts alone including tires. The chain and sprockets are still good. The rear shock doesn't leak but at this point it's not doing its job.

No matter though, it's only money and I really like the bike. I've had way more powerful bikes but I enjoy the simplicity of it. It rides nice and with the fork work, handles nice. And for a Stone Age 750 it rips pretty good in the higher revs. A "slow bike fast" kinda thing.

Also, as Hugo asked... Do you have pods? The internet is rife with stories about bikes not running right after the airbox was switched to pods.
 

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I asked about the fuel level in bowls determined by floats tabs............and your answer is that is is 'stock'. OK then. Am out.
 

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Do you think you're getting any "unmetered" air into the carbs? For example, old carbs have the tendency of leaking and sucking air in other places instead of just the air box. This air could account for the difficulty in tuning what is a relatively simple process. Old bikes have old bike problems.

When the bike is up to temp, try spraying some carb cleaner at the carbs forward of the slides to see if the engine speed rises. If no leaks then no rise.

That's my 2 cents
 
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