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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My 2001 ZR7S seems to have a bit of an odd fuel gauge where at times it will randomly show as "full" rather than the actual measurement.

I was thinking it could be the internal fuel gauge but I can hear it bouncing about inside the tank so I know it isn't stuck. Plus, I would expect it to show empty if it was broken.

Any suggestions on how this can be fixed?

Thank you.
 

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The gauges are notorious for being inaccurate. Usually it's showing the bike as empty when there is still lots of fuel left.
There's a DIY fix by adding a resistor to the back of the gauge cluster. A couple of dollars or less to fix. No soldering required. :)

Here's my write up: https://www.riderforums.com/threads/fuel-gauge-mod.86596/

Taken from the Wayback Machine website looking at the defunct old zr7.com archive. https://web.archive.org/web/20160323191739/http://zr-7.com/fuelgauge.htm

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Contributed by Shuo on the Garage message board

For those who find that their fuel gauge hits "E" while there's still a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank, this might do the trick.

I did it by shunting the fuel sensor with resistor. 470 Ohm is a right value. Now I hit the reserve right after the needle passes the lower mark. 3.3 gal (the half between full and reserve) appeared somewhere around upper third of the scale, very close to it's previous position. To do this modification on the 7S you should remove windshield, inner cover and gauge cluster. On the back of the fuel gauge there are tree terminals. Resistor should be between black/yellow and while/yellow terminals - two upper. No soldering needs, just put it under the bolts. Work takes about 15 minutes, including disassembling, connecting, assembling and test ride to the gas station (don't forget to attach speedometer cable!!! I forgot). Well, I spent 15 minutes more to read manual, do the math and ride to Radio Shack. Radio Shack sells resistors for 79 cents for pack of five. You should look for 470 Ohm, 0.5 Watt, 0.25 Watt should work fine too. I took a photo of the back of gauge cluster with resistor installed.

A few thoughts about non-faired ZR-7. Part numbers for fuel sensor are the same for ZR-7 and ZR-7S. Gauges looks different, but it could be the same mechanism. I think that 470 Ohm is a good point to start. Reducing this value you move the lower position of the needle upward. 100 Ohm is about 4% of the whole scale.

122175



"

There are other write ups here about how the gauge works, the different values based on where the float is etc, but that's for those more into the nitty gritty than I am.

As for why it's showing full when not, it could be sloshing fuel, bad wiring connection where the tank lead connects to the wiring harness, loose wires where they connect on the back or issues with the gauge itself or the tank float sender.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The gauges are notorious for being inaccurate. Usually it's showing the bike as empty when there is still lots of fuel left.
There's a DIY fix by adding a resistor to the back of the gauge cluster. A couple of dollars or less to fix. No soldering required. :)

Here's my write up: https://www.riderforums.com/threads/fuel-gauge-mod.86596/

Taken from the Wayback Machine website looking at the defunct old zr7.com archive. https://web.archive.org/web/20160323191739/http://zr-7.com/fuelgauge.htm

"
Contributed by Shuo on the Garage message board

For those who find that their fuel gauge hits "E" while there's still a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank, this might do the trick.

I did it by shunting the fuel sensor with resistor. 470 Ohm is a right value. Now I hit the reserve right after the needle passes the lower mark. 3.3 gal (the half between full and reserve) appeared somewhere around upper third of the scale, very close to it's previous position. To do this modification on the 7S you should remove windshield, inner cover and gauge cluster. On the back of the fuel gauge there are tree terminals. Resistor should be between black/yellow and while/yellow terminals - two upper. No soldering needs, just put it under the bolts. Work takes about 15 minutes, including disassembling, connecting, assembling and test ride to the gas station (don't forget to attach speedometer cable!!! I forgot). Well, I spent 15 minutes more to read manual, do the math and ride to Radio Shack. Radio Shack sells resistors for 79 cents for pack of five. You should look for 470 Ohm, 0.5 Watt, 0.25 Watt should work fine too. I took a photo of the back of gauge cluster with resistor installed.

A few thoughts about non-faired ZR-7. Part numbers for fuel sensor are the same for ZR-7 and ZR-7S. Gauges looks different, but it could be the same mechanism. I think that 470 Ohm is a good point to start. Reducing this value you move the lower position of the needle upward. 100 Ohm is about 4% of the whole scale.

View attachment 122175


"

There are other write ups here about how the gauge works, the different values based on where the float is etc, but that's for those more into the nitty gritty than I am.

As for why it's showing full when not, it could be sloshing fuel, bad wiring connection where the tank lead connects to the wiring harness, loose wires where they connect on the back or issues with the gauge itself or the tank float sender.

Thanks for that mate, I'll have a good read and see if it makes a change.
 
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