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Great idea, you just need kids of the right age !

I usually use an old magnetic cup-hook. The magnetic base is about the same diameter as the the buckets.
Takes a litle twisting to break the oil film, and occasionally the film proves stronger than the magnet.
Hey, who said you had to have kids to own a dart gun. :D

I had thought about using a magnet several times, but figured it was just to easy and obvious to be a good solution.
Something about possibly magnetizing moving engine parts always seemed like a bad idea to me...perhaps it is just all in my head.
 

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.......... figured it was just to easy and obvious to be a good solution.
Something about possibly magnetizing moving engine parts always seemed like a bad idea to me...perhaps it is just all in my head.
But the only ferrous (i.e. steel) parts in there close enough to be effected are the valves, shims, buckets and cams.
If the bucket is magnetically attracted to the shim ...good.
If the shim and bucket are attracted to the valve......also good
If the bucket is attracted to the camshaft......not good but will be spotted as soon as you try to check the clearance, and the offending bucket(s) can be demagnetised before the engine is run.

Having said all that; I've never noticed any magnetising of the buckets.
The oil film is the greatest adhesive force at work in there.
 

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Question - please help a newbie

This is great. Especially the pictures help.
Two weeks ago, I started my own project and I'm totally new at this, so I need some help. I heard a clunk sound every time I started the bike and it would go away once the engine warmed up. Talking to some neighbours, they said it could be the valves. I also noticed a leak and thought the cylinder head gasket was cracked. So, with the manual in my hand and some new tools I took on the task of taking the engine apart. Now, here's the weird thing. I checked the valves and the clearance was fine, so I took them off to get to the gasket. Unfortunately, the new gasket didn't come in on time, so I had to wait a week. During this time, the valves were just sitting in my shed. Once I got the gasket, I started putting everything back together. Before putting the cover back on the valves, I thought I would check the valves again and ... there was no clearance anymore, nihil, nada, zero, nothing. They were all slammed close to the cams ... I talked to the neighbourhood mechanic and he thinks it's because they sat in my shed without pressure from the top, that the "springs" expanded, and/or that the oil pressure was gone ... I find this very weird. Plan is now to continue putting everything back together and turn the camshaft a couple time to get the oil topped up in the engine.
Anybody have any ideas?
 

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13. Turn the ignition rotor clock wise (the direction of the arrow) to 2-3 to bring the number four piston to top dead center.
Curious about this step. Don't we just turn the engine 360 degrees back to 1-4 to get #4 to the top of it's compression stroke?
 

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Thanks for an excellent guide.
Does anyone know where I can get the shims? Ran around my local shops and none of them have it. Maybe even a whole kit of those shims.

Thanks.
 

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I think the shims are 13mm outer diameter (OD).
You can get them at ronayers.com or bike bandit.
K&L also makes a kit of shims and I've seen them on Amazon and ebay. Not cheap.
 

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Thanks but I found out that local shop can order them. $3 a piece for a piece of metal is not cheap. Now I just have to wait. I hate waiting. I want to ride in this beautiful weather.
 

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3 eacj really isnt that bad as its hardened stuff......and the alfas use a similar setup on there v6's......they are more pricy
 

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It costs about $4.25 per shim at ronayers.com
The bad thing is that you don't really know the shims you need until you open up your engine and take mesurements.
Then place an order for the shims, wait for days before they arrive. In the meantime, your engine is opened up.
 

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Pretty much. It sits all opened up while I am waiting for the shims. Since it is my first time doing valves and disconnecting all the wires, every passing day I am becoming more worried that I will have trouble putting it all back. At least it seems like my store is pretty quick in delivery. They said two business days for shims to arrive to their store.

Edit: Well this sucks. Last Friday the guy told me the shims would arrive on Tuesday afternoon (today 7/10). So I gave them a call today and found out that not only they didn't order the parts but the shims are $8.99. Now I ordered K&L 5 pack from amazon for $34. Luckily all shims needed about the same reduction. Now I got wait another weak.
 

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This thread was very useful in helping me do my shims recentley. Just the issue with "the 2-3 rotor position for number 4 piston to be top dead centre TDC" (wrong).

when you align the 1-4 mark, either cylinder 1 or 4 will be at TDC, you can tell if both cam lobes are facing away from each other. So to get the opposite cylinder to TDC you just rotate the rotor through 360 degrees.

I hope the OP doesn't mind but I've put together a handy word document that's easy to print, so if you're interested follow this link: http://db.tt/Y85kWUcO
 

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THank you so much for this, my 200 zr7 has a ticking sound and just want to get rid of it finally, been riding for 1600 miles without a doubt tho with a little umf in the throttle here and there, but enough is enough. IF ANYONE READS THIS PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS SIMILAR TO THE 2000 KAWI zr7. It would really help. THank you!!!!!
 

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So... i just did mine :) nice job!! but i got really worried when i found 2 exhaust valves (2 and 3) to be less than 0,03 mm!!!! AAARRRGGG... in the end, the number 2 only needed a 0,1 smaller shimm, but the number 3 exhaust... ai ai ai... needed 0,2 mm smaller shim (from 2.35 to a 2.15...) the previous owner did the check (and adjustment 10.000 miles ago... that does not look to good to me....maybe his "friend the mechanic" should stay away from mechanics...

Anyway, all is well now (atleast, bike purs again) :)
oh... 0,03 mm is 0.001181102 inches.
 

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did you count the links between the marks on the cams?
Hey Custer, i'm not realy sure what the reasoning behind the question is? As you can see on the photo's both cam-gears and chains where fixed inplace so, no skipping of teeth could happen. Or do is that not why you asked?
 
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