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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have a 2004 ZR-7swhich is in great condition, well serviced and after a few months of reliable service I am now fed up pushing it as it cuts out after a couple of miles and will not restart till the next day and then it will do exactly the same, I have checked all the fuel and vacuum pipes and all are good, battery is new so am stuck,I am no mechanic but did have have had the carbs cleaned and a service professionally done a couple of months back so it's not them either, any help would be appreciated
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Plant Automotive fuel system
 

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Not all carb rebuilds net great results but if your bike is running fine otherwise, then they're good.
Could it have a tank of bad gas? My perfect running 7 started to sputter and die on the highway after a long day of riding and just after filling up. It hasn't done it since I ran that gas through.

It sounds electrical in nature. Possibly coils. A bad coil may make itself known once they heat up. Or a bad electrical connection anywhere from the ignition switch to anyplace they run.
 

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It's also possible that you have a vacuum lock on the fuel supply due to poor venting of gas tank. When it dies, is there a whoosh when you open the filler cap?
 

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Or a bad electrical connection anywhere from the ignition switch to anyplace they run.
I had a similar problem years ago with a bike and it turned out to be a faulty ignition switch.
 
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Thank you guys, I have ordered a tap **** rebuild kit as the rubbers are all perished and after vacuum was mentioned I thought it a good place to start, I just think it strange it goes pretty much exactly 2.5 miles before it splutters to a halt and will start the next day and do exactly the same, three times I have either pushed it or walked home for my car and trailer and on the fourth after checking everything I could bearing in mind I am no mechanic, it runs smooth and revs fine up to the the time it stops, really weird, I will let you know how it goes after I've rebuilt the petcock, thanks again folks
 

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I had a similar problem years ago with a bike and it turned out to be a faulty ignition switch.
The ZRX uses the same key so most likely the same ignition switch and there were some problems with its ignition switch as well. Something about a burned resistor coming off one of the wires?? I can't remember. Anyways, the switch can be disassembled and rebuilt. I did it on my 7 just for good measure when I refurbished the bike over the winter.
 

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Thank you guys, I have ordered a tap **** rebuild kit as the rubbers are all perished and after vacuum was mentioned I thought it a good place to start, I just think it strange it goes pretty much exactly 2.5 miles before it splutters to a halt and will start the next day and do exactly the same, three times I have either pushed it or walked home for my car and trailer and on the fourth after checking everything I could bearing in mind I am no mechanic, it runs smooth and revs fine up to the the time it stops, really weird, I will let you know how it goes after I've rebuilt the petcock, thanks again folks
Yeah, that's weird. I don't think there's enough fuel in the bowls alone to make 2 1/2 miles but it wouldn't hurt to rebuild the petcock.
I know my ZRX will run a mile on the bowls alone if I forget to turn on my manual shutoff.
 

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I know you already bought a kit and is OK renewing rubber, but if Petcock was suspect was very easy to test, all you do is disconnect from carbs and connect clear plastic tube to a clean container. Put it on PRIME, and the tank should empty by gravity. You can always pour gas back into the bike tank.

In the ON or RES position should not pass fuel if engine not running. If a problem with vacuum actuation when running is suspect, you simply put on PRIME and run around. PRIME simply means gas goes to carbs straight w/out vacuum. There is really not a 'RESERVE' per say. Only short filter (RES) and high filter(ON) on the tap, thus switching between ON and RES only changes the filters.
 

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Here is a decent video explaining the fuel tank not venting.
To test yours, run it a mile or so and with the bike still running, open the cap to vent the gas tank. Two keys will be needed. Rule out the easy things first, the gas tank not venting is a thing.
 

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I will second the recommendation to replace the ignition coils. As mentioned they can act fine when cold and then fail as they warm up. There are two coils under the gas tank that are pretty easy to swap out. You should also change the spark plug wires while you are at it.

You should also check the gas tank vents to make sure they are open and properly routed. If you have a plugged vent it could cause a vacuum in the tank that would stop the gas flow. Also, if you have an aftermarket gas cap that is not letting air into the tank that could be the cause. Next time the bike cuts out try opening the tank slowly. If you hear a sucking sound then that may be the issue. If it is, once you open the tank it should restart.
 

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How many minutes before the bike cuts out?
Will it do it if it is just sitting in the driveway?
 

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How many minutes before the bike cuts out?
Will it do it if it is just sitting in the driveway?
Hi , it seems to be just around three minutes ,sorry for the delay but I had a hospital visit to get done and dusted , I have rebuilt the petcock ,carbs balanced, got new lines and an in line filter too ,it has started up fine and has sat for at least a half hour ticking over at 950 rpm ,it blips fine and a quick and snappy return so tomorrow I guess we try a run but I will go no farther than a few hundred yards from home in a circular fashion just in case there is a difference under load ,I shall report after that ,if it is still cutting out and stalling without a restart I fear it must be electrical so it is ignition coils next but fingers crossed your first suggestion regarding vacuum and fuel lines was correct ,report in 12 hours !! one more thing , how on earth and where do i find out the colour of my paint as I want to do a small repair and the silver looks more like a blue/silver and I have no idea how I find out the code or even the name
 

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how on earth and where do i find out the colour of my paint as I want to do a small repair and the silver looks more like a blue/silver and I have no idea how I find out the code or even the name
Do a Google search for your make and model paint. There are a few companies that know the factory codes and will mix the paint for you. There's a few in the USA and some in England as well I believe.

Here's one - it only lists the 2002 model, but the silver is probably the same: Kawasaki ZR-7S Touch Up Paint & Paint Color Codes | TouchUpDirect
 
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well it isnt the petcock , still not running right and cutting out and double checked all lines so I guess its the coil packs to purchase next , I will let you know if it helps ....ps got paint thanks
 

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Did you ever check for fuel tank venting?
Just a week ago my brothers bike crapped out not far from his house. As he pulled his tank bag off his bike he heard a hissing sound. His tank bag blocked the fuel tank vent and starved the engine of gas. True story. It's an older bike with only the filler cap vent. The 7 may have two.
When your bike cuts out.. open the gas cap and listen for a hissing sound as air rushes into the tank to fill the partial vacuum. If you have this problem the test takes two seconds. Or you can replace the coils first.
 

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Did you ever check for fuel tank venting?
Just a week ago my brothers bike crapped out not far from his house. As he pulled his tank bag off his bike he heard a hissing sound. His tank bag blocked the fuel tank vent and starved the engine of gas. True story. It's an older bike with only the filler cap vent. The 7 may have two.
When your bike cuts out.. open the gas cap and listen for a hissing sound as air rushes into the tank to fill the partial vacuum. If you have this problem the test takes two seconds. Or you can replace the coils first.
Sorry I should have said ,there was no sound when I opened the tank cap , coils should be here tomorrow ,i do hope this is the fault as it is definitely missing then conks out ......
 

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Sorry I should have said ,there was no sound when I opened the tank cap , coils should be here tomorrow ,i do hope this is the fault as it is definitely missing then conks out ......
Electrical problems are a pain. When I bought my 7 one of the plug wires was completely detached from the screw inside the plug boot. It still fired the plug but I imagine it would have given problems while riding.
There is the chance that as your coil heats up the winding fails.
Before you toss your old coils check your connections both low voltage and both ends of each plug wire.
 
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