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WTB Right right turn signal - EDIT: I got one, Thanks.

3195 Views 21 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Zed7
I don't need the whole thing but I'll take it.
I'm looking for the flexible part and all the metal pieces that hold it on to the fairing and the end of the unit.
I'm not sure as they were missing when I bought the bike.
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(new) https://fortnine.ca/en/bikemaster-turn-signal

(new &/or components with parts diagram) 2002 Kawasaki ZR-7S (ZR750-H2) Turn Signals | Ron Ayers

There are also a lot of used on ebay, or you may get lucky here and a member has some extra.

There is a slight difference between the front and the rear in the rubber and plastic bits.

It would be identical to the left front side one as far as required parts.
Thanks for that. I had looked on Bike Bandit and saw the parts were gone so I figured they couldn't be had.
And I would order them right now except I may need more parts plus I don't want to jinx the project by getting ahead of myself.
In other words, if I start making everything perfect too soon, I'll open up the cam cover and find out the valves are bent or something like that. I need to do the hard part first then everything else will fall into place. Sounds crazy but it's happened before.
There's a thread here somewhere about the flush aftermarket replacements if you didn't want the OEM style.

There's stalk and surface mount types. Users here have posted photos using each type.

Pros: lower price than OEM style, LED saves power if you want to add extra electrics and not swap out the alternator,
flush mounts give good visibility to the sides, stalks can also give rear visibility (if they are dual sided LED's and not just one directional like the OEM signals), can be brighter than stock incandescent bulbs

Cons: need to replace flasher relay with an LED compatible model to prevent hyper flash, looks are subjective (you either like them or they are ugly..), flush mounts give less front and rear viewing than stalks. Needs the adapter plates (some LED's come with them) to properly cover the holes where the OEM ones mount.

View attachment 122770 View attachment 122771

Here's the OEM style for a lot less money. Comes via China so may take a while..

I'm probably going to order the signal rubber boot and two oval metal washers I'm missing.
I can see I may need a set of carb holders as well and maybe some carb parts as well so I'll hold off until I get a complete order. The cover is ready to take off.
I'm wondering if I can skate by with the original valve cover gasket? I tend to doubt it.

I don't know how old the plugs are (possibly original) but they spun out nicely, not cranked in too tight or cross threaded and they were burning beautifully. Ever so slightly tan so maybe a tad on the lean side, but just a tad. I'm happy about that.
I think if I had tight valves somehow they wouldn't all be so clean.

Another thing. The front tire is from 2012, cracked but plent of tread.
The rear tire (170/60 which is wrong size) is from 2004, cracked a lot, but it still has close to 2-3mm of tread before the wear bars ???
So I can only guess that the first owner put most of the miles on it, and the second owner, who I bought it from really didn't ride it as much as he said.
Anyways, judging by the rear tire wear (and the overall condition), the bike was never beat on.
Now to free up some time to get the show on the road.
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160/60ZR17 the proper size for the rear. The front is a 120/70XR17. I'd not ride on a cracked tires let alone that the rear is 16 years old.
I have the Conti Road Attack 3 on my z900 and love them but I may go with the Bridgestone T31 for the 7S.
When I was buying the bike the owner took it for a ride and about wiped out. The rear tire nearly folded itself off the rim. When I got it home it had 12psi.
I tried to pump it up and the valve stem broke off. LOL.
I have Conit Motions on mine. They are all I've bought since the Bridgstones that were on them wore out. I find they work well in all weather and my riding style and they are extremely affordable. I'd have them on my ST as well but they don't come in the size I need for it. The Road Attack 3's are a very good tire too.
I'm looking into the Conti Motions. You are right, they are about $100 bucks cheaper per set than the RA3, which I love.
I've used the Bridgestone Battlax series for years and loved them until the RA3 converted me.
I don't mind spending money on tires but I want to keep my restore project cost within reason.
How is the ride quality of the Motions? Can you compare them to the Bridgestone bt-023 ( if that's what you had on there)?
The 023 is a good tire, one of the best bangs for the buck out there considering price and wear. It's just that they are a little numb feeling when leaning over in a corner.
Obo, how many miles are you getting out of the Motions?
I ordered my first batch of parts today for the turn signal. To get the free shipping I had to order more stuff so I went with new plugs, head cover gasket and finally my first METRIC feeler gauge. 👍 No more math in my head using the inch system.
I wound up ordering through Rocky Mountain ATV because they had the feeler gauge I wanted. Their prices are higher on some parts and lower on others. It balanced out against Ron Ayers but their free shipping limit was less.
I did find these but the company can't give me the date codes so I'll pass on them.
The M5 came out around 2012 or so and they've been superseded so they're probably new old stock.
Chaparral has Conti Motions right now for about $174 US per set.
I have in the past asked for date codes on tires and they will begrudgingly call the warehouse and give them to you, and from big name places such as Chaparral.
This Smith Family emailed me and said they had several such tires and couldn't give me the codes so I won't deal with them at all.
I've gone with large suppliers as they have a lot of turn over and have had good luck (tho I have sent done back) but dealers in my area, Boston, are few and far between. And have a horrible selection. They're either pure sport tires or cruiser tires.
I'm pretty fussy about my tires. When I get one I like, I don't like changing. I'm stubborn.
Daddy Flip, sorry to hear about your troubles. It's been a weird 2020 and 2021 doesn't look like an improvement. I hope your family members recover.
My best friend just got covid and along with it AFIB. He went on blood thinners yesterday.
I have one nephew who got it twice and thankfully recovered both times.

Where are you located?

I've had two stock suspensions rebuilt and modified by Jamie at Daugherty Motorsport in Indiana. My most recent for my 2017 Kawi z900. He charged me a total of $650 for a complete respring and revalve job, front and rear. Set for my weight and riding style. That's less than the price of a midrange rear shock. He also pre-sets sag and the clickers on a dyno.
The bike feels fantastic.
I'm going to rebuild my forks but I'll buy my components from him.
He's a suspension expert and he's busy. He has not much time to talk.
He asks you what bike, how much you weigh, and if you ride on the street or if you're racing at the track.
I told him street only but I like to ride aggressively on country backroads every now and then.
He says, "ok, I know what you want". And I say, "but ...". And he says "I've been doing this a long time".
You send him your suspension and it comes back perfectly set up for you.

Anyways, things get better. Don't sell the bike just yet. StaBil the gas and see what happens.
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