Voltmeter and regulator upgrade from SH678A-12 to Shindengen mofset type

Did you do this yet? If so, did you bypass the stock harness?

If someone is worried about this and wants an easy fix....easy, not cheap....it's possible.

This Ricks regulator plugs in and is much more stable, but it has a massive plug if you use the stock harness. I have not found a way to do this that doesn't have a GIANT plug. I've even ordered accessory connectors and I end up with about the same as the Ricks regulator.

I don't think this is a real concern, overall. In reality our cheap, unstable stock regulators have kept my Shorai battery alive for 10 years and the battery still tests out over 95%capacity. I expected the stock reg to damage the Shorai battery. That's my reason for going down this rabbit hole.

I actually have a Ricks regulator and have not installed it. I'm like you in the way I like too solve problems that will never happen, but could. If they do, I am prepared. I have plugged in the Ricks regulator and it runs in the 14.6 range and doesn't move around d as much as the stock part does.


I also have a cbr1000rr regulator that I can install and by-pass the stock harness. I wish we were neighbors. We would get this figured out.

rcannon409 said:

Did you do this yet? If so, did you bypass the stock harness?

If someone is worried about this and wants an easy fix....easy, not cheap....it's possible.

This Ricks regulator plugs in and is much more stable, but it has a massive plug if you use the stock harness. I have not found a way to do this that doesn't have a GIANT plug. I've even ordered accessory connectors and I end up with about the same as the Ricks regulator.

I don't think this is a real concern, overall. In reality our cheap, unstable stock regulators have kept my Shorai battery alive for 10 years and the battery still tests out over 95%capacity. I expected the stock reg to damage the Shorai battery. That's my reason for going down this rabbit hole.

I actually have a Ricks regulator and have not installed it. I'm like you in the way I like too solve problems that will never happen, but could. If they do, I am prepared. I have plugged in the Ricks regulator and it runs in the 14.6 range and doesn't move around d as much as the stock part does.


I also have a cbr1000rr regulator that I can install and by-pass the stock harness. I wish we were neighbors. We would get this figured out.

Rick's Motorsports Hot Shot Regulator/Rectifier - Parts Giant

Buy Rick's Motorsports Hot Shot Regulator/Rectifier starting at $124.95 plus free shipping at Parts Giant.

www.partsgiant.com

Click to expand...

My voltage was OK but a little high for my taste at times hitting 15.1. Kawasaki says that is normal so my regulator is in spec. For the upgrade, all the parts are on hand now or coming in shortly. I went with a used Shindengen FHO12AA ($38.86) and a plug kit ($15.99) both sourced from EBay. I also bought some 12 gauge wire in black and red. I had an inline fuse, shrink wrap, etc. on hand. I'm going to cut the OEM plug so that the whole operation is reversible if necessary although that will never happen. I've done this upgrade on two other bikes and find the mosfet regulator runs cool and keeps voltage in a narrow range never exceeding 14.4. I'll mount the Shindengen under the seat in the compartment just to the rear of the battery. That location is accessible by extending the cables and won't require any cutting. It's dry there and that will be kind to the connections. I'll use rubber and zipties to steady the assembly the same as on my Triumph TT600 in the picture below. For my Suzuki SV1000S, I rigged a location next to the forward cylinder. Wiring for a 2006 - 2008 650R and family is: 1) 3 stator outputs to the Shindengen grey plug 2) Shindengen + to battery and Shindengen - to battery. Alternatively I could wire Shindengen plus to Blue/White and Shindengen negative to Brown/Yellow. The remaining OEM wire is not used for a mosfet.

What did you use to go between the Stator and the New regulator?

I like this upgrade because I've converted the bike to use LED lights. They don't use as much power so the regulator works harder. That idea shouldn't matter as much with an upgraded regulator.

I say "idea" as it's a problem I have invented, but even still, I think you and I both enjoy doing this work as much as the upgrade would help, if not more.

I wanted to use my stock wire harness, but it would have been nice to extend the wires and move the regulator. For some reason, Kawasaki placed the Ninja/z 1000 regulator directly in front of the rear wheel. If you are in the rain, the regulator might as well be in a dishwasher. Unless you seal the connector, it will cause trouble at some point.

It looks like my Shorai battery is ready for year 11. I brought it in from the freezing garage. It took about five minutes on the Shorai charger to say it was ready to use.

rcannon409 said:

What did you use to go between the Stator and the New regulator?

I like this upgrade because I've converted the bike to use LED lights. They don't use as much power so the regulator works harder. That idea shouldn't matter as much with an upgraded regulator.

I say "idea" as it's a problem I have invented, but even still, I think you and I both enjoy doing this work as much as the upgrade would help, if not more.

I wanted to use my stock wire harness, but it would have been nice to extend the wires and move the regulator. For some reason, Kawasaki placed the Ninja/z 1000 regulator directly in front of the rear wheel. If you are in the rain, the regulator might as well be in a dishwasher. Unless you seal the connector, it will cause trouble at some point

Click to expand...

That's

rcannon409 said:

What did you use to go between the Stator and the New regulator?

I like this upgrade because I've converted the bike to use LED lights. They don't use as much power so the regulator works harder. That idea shouldn't matter as much with an upgraded regulator.

I say "idea" as it's a problem I have invented, but even still, I think you and I both enjoy doing this work as much as the upgrade would help, if not more.

I wanted to use my stock wire harness, but it would have been nice to extend the wires and move the regulator. For some reason, Kawasaki placed the Ninja/z 1000 regulator directly in front of the rear wheel. If you are in the rain, the regulator might as well be in a dishwasher. Unless you seal the connector, it will cause trouble at some point

Click to expand...

I went ahead and cut off the plug that connects to the OEM regulator. Identify the now bare 3 wires from the stator and extend them to the new regulator. Discard the 3 remaining wires leading to the Kawasaki plug. You could use two of them but there are enough questions about the circuit raised to me by an engineer that I chose to "cap" them and leave unused. Shindengen plus and minus from it's black connector are connected to the battery. This is the tried and true "universal" way of mounting a Shindengen at least with a 3 pole stator output. If you could find a connector matching the female plug on the oem regulator it would be possible to leave the oem plug intact - oem wiring plug to newly found plug and from there 3 stator outputs to grey plug on a Shindengen FHO12AA or equivalent.

We both have different bikes, but we both use the same "awesome" stock regulator.

When you are finished, let's do some sort of comparison. I can easily test the stock regulator and the Ricks Hotshot regulator.

You'll have the most popular upgrade regulator so it could be interesting to see if we get this stability.

It would be interesting to see if that upgraded Ricks mosfet Regulator is as stable as your "for sure" good regulator.

I don't know if mine is as good. It's supposed to be, but we know how that goes.

I buy it, and live happily ever after. It would be nice to know, for sure.

Did you ever consider using the SH847 reg? I did, but spending 150 for a back up part, that I wanted to play with, felt ok so I bought the Hotshot regulator.

Spending 250 on the 847, to solve a problem I didn't have, felt expensive and excessive .

I know I don't need to explain either idea to you.

Here's a video done by someone who knows how to solder well and who is working on a virtuallyt identical plug kit to the one I used. Replacing The Reg/Rec On The VFR800 With A Shindengen FH020AA. Episode 1 - Creating The Wiring Loom. - YouTube

After the upgrade, voltage at idle is a steady 14.3. My back is still out but I expect the same number on the road at every speed.

Below are pictures of the completed Shindengen upgrade. In the first picture:

1) Location of the 3 unused oem wires, ziptied into a bundle.
2) Three red colored 12 gauge wires from stator to Shindengen grey plug
3) Inline fuse. I'm running a 20 amp fuse and don't know if that's optimal.
4) I soldered wires above and to the front of this tank bracket as can be seen in the second picture. After soldering I was able to lift the bracket and pass wires underneath to complete the routing.



Next shot is after cutting the oem plug leaving an inch or so of wire on the plug. The 6 oem wires were maneuvered to the position you see below for soldering. In the picture two black wire stator outputs are nearly vertical and the third is attached to a red wire coming from the Shendengen grey plug.