RiderForums.com - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum banner

61 - 77 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Great thread! Awesome write up.

I am doing the valve job on my Z1000 2003 this weekend and its been a while since my last valve job so it was really nice to go through the how-to.

I worked as a motorcycle mechanic at a motorcycle store and I remember a few things that were not mentioned in the how-to:

1. Valve clearances must always be measured on a cold engine. This is very important cause the heat affects steel and this will make the clearances change. A hot engine would normally have less clearance then a cold one.
Also notice that the bike should rest for several hours after running.
At the dealer we asked people to hand over their bikes the day before to ensure proper cool down of the engine before measuring the clearances.

2. You did mention that you used compressed air to remove dust and dirt from the cover area. But it is also very important to use compressed air in the "tubes" for the sparkplug caps, before removing the sparkplugs.
I`ve seen bikes with gravel around the sparkplug even with the new type good sealing sparkplug cap.

3. At the dealer we always used a tiny amount of black loctite gasket-sement on the 4 round parts of the valve cover gasket. (the parts that rest inside the half-moon shape). We also thorugly cleaned the gasket and degreased the areas on the head were gasket sement was used.

Also ensure proper fitment of the gasket!
On some bikes where installing the gasket was hard we thorougly cleaned the gasket and the groove in the valve cover and used tiny amounts of super glue to make the gasket attach to the cover and then put the cover on.


This was just my two cents didnt mean to step on anyones toes;-)

PS sorry for the bad language, I`m from Norway:)

Joakim,
Norway
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Great write up with Awesome pictures!! Made my valve adjustment experience much better than if I'd only had the service manual.

At 15,000 miles I had both EX valves on #4 below minimum tolerance. I also adjusted 7 others to pull them up from being at the minimum limit. Of the 9 shims adjusted, only 4 were swapped with the dealer. The others were switched around from other valves that needed adjusting.

This was my first go at internal engine maintenance. It was really uneventful... just be aware of what you are doing, follow instructions, and don't drop any bits into the motor. Working alone, it required a full day from start to finish if you include the trip to the dealer for shims and a couple trips for food.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Just did mine, all of them were at or below minimums...My bad though... I've got 30,000 Km (about 18,000 miles) on my bike, and this is the first time.

I also did my air filter, plugs, and Idle check/throttle body Synchronization; all in about 8 hours...(Sure glad I can do this, i'd hate to have to pay the "stealership", to do all of this!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Still around - glad to see people are using the guide. I still have my Z750R! hehe

In August the wife and I went on our bikes Pittsburgh to Spearfish, SD at the tail end of Sturgis for a family vacation - her grandmother lives there. The Z was totally awesome - except for the seat! I'll need to check my valves again very soon.

I am not sure why some of the pictures say they were moved, as I did not shift anything on Photobucket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Still around - glad to see people are using the guide. I still have my Z750R! hehe

In August the wife and I went on our bikes Pittsburgh to Spearfish, SD at the tail end of Sturgis for a family vacation - her grandmother lives there. The Z was totally awesome - except for the seat! I'll need to check my valves again very soon.

I am not sure why some of the pictures say they were moved, as I did not shift anything on Photobucket.
I just did mine and your guide has really make things clearer and easier for me. I took picture along the way so I can refer back if I missed out anything. When putting back the cam cap, I did it differently from the manual and your guide.

After I aligned the cam shaft sprocket to the cam chain, I put in the 4 chrome screws ( where the dowel pins are located) and 4 anodized black bolt, tighten them slowly and evenly to sit in the cam cap. Then I put a big spanner resting on the cam chain between the IN and EX cam and put in the rest of the cam cap bolts and tighten them slowly according to the pattern stated in the manual. The timing mark align to the dot after the cam cap bolt are torque down and the big spanner keep the chain in the sprockets. Finally I put in the chain guide, CCT and turn it clockwise 2 turns.

2004 Kawasaki Z750 DIY Guide
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Good tip!

I'm not getting email updates on this topic - might have to adjust my forum settings again. I have to do my valves again - hit 30,000 miles a bit ago :D Hope none are out this time, but we will see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Thank you falcn for the post. I just did mine. It took a while for me but I got it done. #4 EX were too tight so I gave the spec gap on them. Now I hear some ticking noise but I read that happens often. One of the valves had spec gap before I took the cam off but it reduced the gap when I put the cam back on so I ended up replacing that shim. I checked them 3 times(means I took the cams off 3 times and put them back on 3 times) just to make sure all the gaps are within spec. I have not had a chance to ride the bike though. Either way, thank you so much for everything. I couldn't have done it without this post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
Thank you falcn for the post. I just did mine. It took a while for me but I got it done. #4 EX were too tight so I gave the spec gap on them. Now I hear some ticking noise but I read that happens often. One of the valves had spec gap before I took the cam off but it reduced the gap when I put the cam back on so I ended up replacing that shim. I checked them 3 times(means I took the cams off 3 times and put them back on 3 times) just to make sure all the gaps are within spec. I have not had a chance to ride the bike though. Either way, thank you so much for everything. I couldn't have done it without this post.
You are quite welcome. Glad to see it is still being found useful!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Hi falcn, I just wanted to let you know that my Z runs much better after the valve adjustment...it's way faster and pulls harder. I bought this new in 05 and was expecting a fast bike and took time to break-in but the bike never made me feel "Whoa!" and I was kind of disappointed. When I checked valve clearance at little over 16000 mi, they were all on tighter side. Almost all of them were pretty tight so I kinda had a hope that it might make the bike run better. I took the bike out today and it's like a new/different bike. It pulls really hard in each gears and revs smoother than before. Now I can relate to all the reviews I read 10 years ago lol. I could not get over how hard it pulls now. Before I would feel some flat spot and it would not be pulling after certain point. I'm just amazed. It's really cool to be able to work on and ride it to see/feel the difference. I learned so much and understand how things work better than before. Thank you so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
That rocks! Too close (tight) of a tolerance will leave the valves sightly open or opening too soon, robbing you of the power you are noticing now. Glad you are enjoying the fruits of your labor.

Merry Christmas!

Hi falcn, I just wanted to let you know that my Z runs much better after the valve adjustment...it's way faster and pulls harder. I bought this new in 05 and was expecting a fast bike and took time to break-in but the bike never made me feel "Whoa!" and I was kind of disappointed. When I checked valve clearance at little over 16000 mi, they were all on tighter side. Almost all of them were pretty tight so I kinda had a hope that it might make the bike run better. I took the bike out today and it's like a new/different bike. It pulls really hard in each gears and revs smoother than before. Now I can relate to all the reviews I read 10 years ago lol. I could not get over how hard it pulls now. Before I would feel some flat spot and it would not be pulling after certain point. I'm just amazed. It's really cool to be able to work on and ride it to see/feel the difference. I learned so much and understand how things work better than before. Thank you so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Did you ever do up a PDF version with the missing pictures? I just got a 04 z1000 with (now) 14,000 KM on it, and I think it's going to be time to do the valve clearance soon? I've never done it before on any engine, but I'm confident it won't be that hard - i've done engine swaps etc before, it's just a matter of getting your hands a little dirty.

If you've got the PDF somewhere, that would be AWESOME.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Thank you so much for this, still keeping the old 2003 Z1000 going and this guide along with the manual made first time doing a valve clearance go smooth as can be!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
Thank you so much for this, still keeping the old 2003 Z1000 going and this guide along with the manual made first time doing a valve clearance go smooth as can be!
David,

I'm so glad the guide was helpful after all these years. It's very fulfilling to do your own work, and that makes me feel good knowing I helped someone else understand their bike better and tackle their own maintenance.

Ryan
 
  • Like
Reactions: dparisoe

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
I'm back in the Kawi family now with a Ninja 400 track bike. I might do a similar write up for it and maybe make a video on some work. It's hard without a helper.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ozninjaguy
61 - 77 of 77 Posts
Top