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Discussion Starter #41

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I got a question that has probably been asked before... my bike has only 2121 miles on it and sounds like its ticking a bit more than it should, but i have never owned a four cylinder bike and assume this is normal?!?!

do i need an adjustment or is this pretty much nature of the beast per say?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Are you sure that it is not just your injectors that you are hearing? I highly doubt that at only 2000 miles you need to adjust your valves.
 

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Awesome write-up, falcn! Bringing out the manuals reach-around-your-arse-to-scratch-yer-jewels technique for checking clearances was helpful.

I'll buy ya a pint if I ever meet ya!:headbang:
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thank you very much. :welcome:
 

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Hi Falcn,

My Zed is on 22000 and the valves still aren't done :glassesti , I do plan on doing them soon and I'll use this write up as it's a lot more clear than the manual is, thanks for taking the time mate, I'll let you know how I get on when I finally do it:righton:
 

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I'm an idiot. what kind of responsible bike owner mixes up Kilometers and miles in the owners manual? Looks like I'm a few K over checking them again. Anyone wanna sell me some shims?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Hi Falcn,

My Zed is on 22000 and the valves still aren't done :glassesti , I do plan on doing them soon and I'll use this write up as it's a lot more clear than the manual is, thanks for taking the time mate, I'll let you know how I get on when I finally do it:righton:
Glad I could help.:swink:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Has anyone found that I was wrong about the shop manual telling you to be able to check the #3 cylinder intake when #1 is at TDC? I got a note from someone over on SB that wants to repost this on another forum saying that it worked for him.

I can't be sure I didn't make a mistake, I did double check the instructions several times and was sure I was looking at #3 intake when #1 was at TDC and not being able to get a feeler gauge in there.

Ah well - I like the one whole piston at a time adjustment more. All the cam lobes are pointed up the same amount on all the valves as you march across the head.
 

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Has anyone found that I was wrong about the shop manual telling you to be able to check the #3 cylinder intake when #1 is at TDC? I got a note from someone over on SB that wants to repost this on another forum saying that it worked for him.

I can't be sure I didn't make a mistake, I did double check the instructions several times and was sure I was looking at #3 intake when #1 was at TDC and not being able to get a feeler gauge in there.

Ah well - I like the one whole piston at a time adjustment more. All the cam lobes are pointed up the same amount on all the valves as you march across the head.
I came accross this in a GSX-R service manual. It fully supports your method:



This way it is very clear which clearances you can measure and there is no chance of a reading which is less than it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I didn't mean was the way I did end up doing it wrong, I know that way is correct. Lots of mechanics do it the way I ended up doing it because there is no doubt. I agree - no chance of getting a tighter reading that you might otherwise receive with the cams not pointing up at 45*. Thanks for the independent confirmation! :D

I meant did anyone find they could get the feelers under the cam when following the OEM manual instructions?
 

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Has anyone found that I was wrong about the shop manual telling you to be able to check the #3 cylinder intake when #1 is at TDC?
Yes, I just tackled the valve check/adjust today, and I could check cyl # 3 when cyl # 1 was @ TDC. However, it's not as easy as doing it the one-cylinder-at-a-time way that you have described. I took several readings, before and after, and doing each cylinder at it's TDC, you get much more accurate and consistent measurements.

I ended up having to change 9 shims. All eight of my exhaust valves were tight....7 of them tighter than the lowest allowable spec, and one of them was right on the lowest spec. My intake valves were all pretty decent, if a little on the tight side, with just one sitting right at the lowest spec, so I opened up the gap by 0.05mm. No big deal.

I'm assuming my exhaust valves are tight because of the Akro 4-into-1 I installed when the bike was brand new (causing the exhaust valves to seat in more)? In any case, no worries. It worked out well and I'm glad I checked them.

Thanks Falcn, excellent write-up man!! A tip of the hat to you.:righton:

PS: I did save the whole thread in a .pdf if anybody wants it. It's on my laptop at work, so I can forward it if anybody was looking for it.

Cheers,
Rem
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thanks Rembrandt. I am happy that others are still finding this How-To useful.

My Z has been unhappy with me lately as I put her away for the winter and have been riding my DS.
 

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Yes, I just tackled the valve check/adjust today, and I could check cyl # 3 when cyl # 1 was @ TDC. However, it's not as easy as doing it the one-cylinder-at-a-time way that you have described. I took several readings, before and after, and doing each cylinder at it's TDC, you get much more accurate and consistent measurements.

I ended up having to change 9 shims. All eight of my exhaust valves were tight....7 of them tighter than the lowest allowable spec, and one of them was right on the lowest spec. My intake valves were all pretty decent, if a little on the tight side, with just one sitting right at the lowest spec, so I opened up the gap by 0.05mm. No big deal.

I'm assuming my exhaust valves are tight because of the Akro 4-into-1 I installed when the bike was brand new (causing the exhaust valves to seat in more)? In any case, no worries. It worked out well and I'm glad I checked them.

Thanks Falcn, excellent write-up man!! A tip of the hat to you.:righton:

PS: I did save the whole thread in a .pdf if anybody wants it. It's on my laptop at work, so I can forward it if anybody was looking for it.

Cheers,
Rem

I didn't see this until this afternoon, after I spent the time to PDF it myself at work today. Is there a way we can post it with out a link?
 

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I didn't see this until this afternoon, after I spent the time to PDF it myself at work today. Is there a way we can post it with out a link?
When you select "Manage Attachments" it says that .pdf is valid file extension....but I don't know what the max upload size is?

My .pdf of this thread is almost 4mb, and it's 55 pages long...lol.

PS: I also saved the Squidbuster's thread in .pdf as well, just in case. Sometimes ya never know....I may need all this info in a few years time, so it's handy to have around.
 

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Yes, I just tackled the valve check/adjust today, and I could check cyl # 3 when cyl # 1 was @ TDC. However, it's not as easy as doing it the one-cylinder-at-a-time way that you have described. I took several readings, before and after, and doing each cylinder at it's TDC, you get much more accurate and consistent measurements.

I ended up having to change 9 shims. All eight of my exhaust valves were tight....7 of them tighter than the lowest allowable spec, and one of them was right on the lowest spec. My intake valves were all pretty decent, if a little on the tight side, with just one sitting right at the lowest spec, so I opened up the gap by 0.05mm. No big deal.

I'm assuming my exhaust valves are tight because of the Akro 4-into-1 I installed when the bike was brand new (causing the exhaust valves to seat in more)? In any case, no worries. It worked out well and I'm glad I checked them.

Thanks Falcn, excellent write-up man!! A tip of the hat to you.:righton:

PS: I did save the whole thread in a .pdf if anybody wants it. It's on my laptop at work, so I can forward it if anybody was looking for it.

Cheers,
Rem
Hi Rem, would be interested in your PDF. I have some questions for you. The workshop manuel on my Z1000 2007 says valve inspection should be done at 26000 kilometers. Is it worth doing then or is it more likely to do it at say 36000 or more?


Also the shims, i guess shims are not expensive, do those have to be oem shims, and do they sell them like in complete sets? I understand that you use the chart to understand what size shim you use to replace a shim, but that would mean ordering a specific shim after the engine is open. i.e. bike of the road for a long time waiting for the shims. Or can i order like a set before doing the job....

anyway i hope i am making sense
 

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Hi Rem, would be interested in your PDF.
No problem, just send me a PM with your email address.

The workshop manuel on my Z1000 2007 says valve inspection should be done at 26000 kilometers. Is it worth doing then or is it more likely to do it at say 36000 or more?
Well, I'm no authority or anything, but I do think these valve checks are a bit overrated. Please note, this is just my personal opinion, nothing more. I think Kawasaki is probably very conservative with the valve settings right at the factory. What I mean is, I think they're sent out with the gaps as big as possible. The tolerances are so much tighter these days than in the past, that even if the valves are out of spec, most people won't notice anything different in the performance of their bikes. Furthermore, the risk of damage (from not checking/adjusting them) is minimal, if a burnt valve is considered to be the highest risk. Once the valves are seated, I don't think the clearances will change much, and certainly won't change quickly. I checked and adjusted mine because I'm fussy, and I like fine-tuning...lol. However, I've just talked to, and read about, far too many people that never ever bother to check them and they're bikes are still running fine to really worry a great deal about it. I may get flamed to death for this reply, but it's just my opinion. If you have a dealership you trust, check with them and see what they say.

Also the shims, i guess shims are not expensive, do those have to be oem shims, and do they sell them like in complete sets?
Yes, you can buy complete sets, and no, they don't have to be OEM. If you go back to the first page of this thread, you'll see the info on what sizes and kits you need to buy. I bought mine from Lytleracing.com through Ebay.

I understand that you use the chart to understand what size shim you use to replace a shim, but that would mean ordering a specific shim after the engine is open. i.e. bike of the road for a long time waiting for the shims. Or can i order like a set before doing the job....
Well, the dealer charges as much as $10 for each shim, but if you buy a kit, they're like $1.25 each. I bought the whole kit just so I didn't have to run around looking for parts, etc. I wanted to open the engine, check, and adjust all in one shot. For this reason, the price of the shim kit is worth every penny.

PS: You don't need the chart to see what size shim you need, you just need to be able to add and subtract...lol. Also, you'll need something to measure the existing shims with, like a digital varnier caliper, that's what I used.

Anyway, good luck with it!!
 

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PS: You don't need the chart to see what size shim you need, you just need to be able to add and subtract...lol. Also, you'll need something to measure the existing shims with, like a digital varnier caliper, that's what I used.

Anyway, good luck with it!!
Check you tube, I found a video of a guy doing a dirt bike or KLR that had a cool visual way to do the math, sorry no linky
 

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???

Thanks falcn..

your instructions were a lot less confusing compared to the kawi's directions.. Have a question after the shiming was done and i re-checked my clearance's i found out that one of my intake clearance's is .157mm is this okay to keep it like this or would you reccomend changing it? the bike has currently 13,000 miles and i plan on checkin them again at 25,000 miles..

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Thanks falcn..

your instructions were a lot less confusing compared to the kawi's directions.. Have a question after the shiming was done and i re-checked my clearance's i found out that one of my intake clearance's is .157mm is this okay to keep it like this or would you reccomend changing it? the bike has currently 13,000 miles and i plan on checkin them again at 25,000 miles..

thanks.
The top of the spec is .122 inches. If it were me (and I did have to do this too) I would change it. Being loose is certainly better than being way too tight. The valve is not going to be opening as much as it needs to with loose clearance, and may also slap and be noisy.

Thanks for the kind words.

Ryan
 
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