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This is a great manual, but it could be improved on for even greater clarity. For each time a reference is made, a yellow arrow or circle can be drawn on the picture to show that point of reference on the engine part, for each picture. That would truly be useful.

Adding a "summary"of the contents of your text would be great also. Like a reference of the sections of the process, to be followed alongside your main description. For example one section would be overview/summary of the parts that need to be removed to get to the covers. Another would be getting to the shims. Another would be "just" a concise list of all replacement parts needed. Things like that.

Obviously, you did this on your own free will and it's not like you're obliged to write or change anything. Perfectly clear. Not trying to criticize at all.

Mentioning the use of an air ratchet doesn't have to include personal preferences or accolades or even necessarily which brand was being used. Personally it distracted me from focusing on the concept of what the job involved. You're removing a screw, for crying out loud, how important is that in the overall process??? - Concise writing goes a long way.

On the other hand placing towels in beween hollow areas is a great, useful tip.

Anyway... Thanks for the write up and your efforts.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
good suggestions, I will see if I can do some of them when I get some free time again now that racing season is over. I also want to compile it into a PDF.
 

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Valve clearance workbook

I did the valve clearances on my bike last weekend and found this post to be a perfect guide. My only deviation from Falcn's procedure was that I preferred to place the shims in the little recesses on top of the valves when reassembling, rather than try to hold them centrally inside the buckets with a magnet.

Attached is the workbook that I used to calculate the new shims required. I left my values in the white background rows as an example, but just delete them and fill in your own if you want to use it. You will see that it allows for adjustment of gaps that are in spec, but with a greater than the specified deviation from the target that you can set. In the end, I only adjusted the out-of-spec ones to save money.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I am very happy to hear that this guide has helped another person - it makes all the effort that it took to document things worth it.

That was a good idea about putting the shims in the recesses of the valve retainers. I didn't end up dropping any at all using the magnet method, but the potential is there. I suppose when I do this again (if I have to adjust anything after the next check) I will probably use the magnetic probe to place the shims in the valve retainer recesses. I don't trust my fingers to hold onto that little sucker as I am trying to maneuver it into place under the frame. :D
 

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Finished mine today. Just waiting on the gaskets to get here.

All of the intake side was within spec, although a few measured 0.15mm so I shimmed those out to 0.20mm. (Spec = 0.15mm-0.24)

All but two of the exhaust side was OUT OF SPEC! The bike has 15,000 miles on it, so I would probably recommend checking at around 10,000 miles rather than the 15,000 that Kawasaki recommends.

The exhaust valve all the way on the clutch side went as far as only measuring 0.18mm which is way tighter than the (spec of 0.22-0.31).

I also recommend buying your shims individually after you figure out what you need. I bought the whole shim kit which includes shims from 1.30mm to 3.40mm and three of each size. Well I'll never use the ones down in the 1.30 range, and I ended up needing so many of the same size, I ended up having to buy extra ones anyway. All of the shims in the bike from factory were 3.00mm and 2.95mm. I ended up using several 2.90's and re-using the 2.95's and then some.
 

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Finished mine today. Just waiting on the gaskets to get here.

All of the intake side was within spec, although a few measured 0.15mm so I shimmed those out to 0.20mm. (Spec = 0.15mm-0.24)

All but two of the exhaust side was OUT OF SPEC! The bike has 15,000 miles on it, so I would probably recommend checking at around 10,000 miles rather than the 15,000 that Kawasaki recommends.

The exhaust valve all the way on the clutch side went as far as only measuring 0.18mm which is way tighter than the (spec of 0.22-0.31).

I also recommend buying your shims individually after you figure out what you need. I bought the whole shim kit which includes shims from 1.30mm to 3.40mm and three of each size. Well I'll never use the ones down in the 1.30 range, and I ended up needing so many of the same size, I ended up having to buy extra ones anyway. All of the shims in the bike from factory were 3.00mm and 2.95mm. I ended up using several 2.90's and re-using the 2.95's and then some.
I bought the shim kit too. I ran into the same problem about needing the same one over and over. luckely I had some spares from assorted heads that Ive dissasembled for springs and such. I now have a pretty good collection. If anyone needs a specific size, PM me, Ill gladley send ya what you need for free.
 

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For handling shims I have the round kid lock magnets. Same size as the bucket and they are easy to handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I didn't buy the single shim kit for the very reason that it only had 3 of each size and had sizes I knew I would not need. I bought the refill kits in the ranges around 2.90. They come with 5 of each shim in a smaller size range. I will have to look in my drawer to see which kits I bought if I didn't mention it.

I know I posted which ones I bought on Squidbusters - I will add it here as well.

Review on the Hotcams Refill Kits I purchased

I got two kits.

I purchased the 2.70-to-2.95 mm, and 3.00-to-3.25 mm refill kits. The refill kits progress in 0.05mm increments, meaning I have 12 complete sets. Each refill kit contains 5 shims in each size. The refill kits were $35.95 for 30 shims, so about $1.20 per shim versus the OEM price of $8 per shim.

added this info to the first post
 

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All but two of the exhaust side was OUT OF SPEC! The bike has 15,000 miles on it, so I would probably recommend checking at around 10,000 miles rather than the 15,000 that Kawasaki recommends.
What are your riding habits? Do you shift high, or average, around 3-4k RPM?

Thanks.
 

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What are your riding habits? Do you shift high, or average, around 3-4k RPM?

Thanks.
Riding habits are usually fairly tame, 4-5K shifts I think. Although I do usually cram on it, or pull it up when I get the chance (probably about once or twice everytime I go for a ride). I took it to the track back at the end of September, and I also took a 4000mile round trip on it back in August.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
You're welcome.

When I get time one of these days (gee when haven't I said that before) - I still want to go through and rework it to be more easily readable and create a PDF out of it.
 

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You're welcome.

When I get time one of these days (gee when haven't I said that before) - I still want to go through and rework it to be more easily readable and create a PDF out of it.
... if I can make sense out of it then anyone can
 

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wow just did a valve check on my 03 z1000 at 60,000 and all within spec. the throttle bodies were needed syncing but i am amazed, and I ride the **** out of her.
 

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FALCN,
Awesome write up many thanks for taking the time to do this, I am extremely apprehensive of tackling this myself but I know it needs to be done soon, I have 21,000 miles on her (12k by the previous owner) and I know the previous owner rode the snot out of her, and I'm pretty aggresive myself. This may be a dumb question but the previous owner gutted the stock pipes completely installed a pcIII, would his mods and riding style cause the valves to need adjustment sooner?

PS If your still working on that PDF file, I would gladly pay for a copy of it!!

EDIT: I installed a pair of stock cans that had been cut 2 inches but still had the cat and baffles shortly after buying the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
FALCN,
Awesome write up many thanks for taking the time to do this, I am extremely apprehensive of tackling this myself but I know it needs to be done soon, I have 21,000 miles on her (12k by the previous owner) and I know the previous owner rode the snot out of her, and I'm pretty aggresive myself. This may be a dumb question but the previous owner gutted the stock pipes completely installed a pcIII, would his mods and riding style cause the valves to need adjustment sooner?

PS If your still working on that PDF file, I would gladly pay for a copy of it!!

EDIT: I installed a pair of stock cans that had been cut 2 inches but still had the cat and baffles shortly after buying the bike.
If you were running way lean - it may have made the valves seat more, tightening your clearances. Only way to know is to check!
 

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16,000 and thinking about putting it off one more season....
 
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