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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my bike...

IMAG0156.jpg

...or, I guess that was my bike, until this happened:

IMAG0161.jpg

With over $1000 in cosmetic damage dealt at the track but no mechanical damage dealt, I had a choice to make- track it or save it? After some careful consideration, I've decided I'm going to track it and use my Ninja 250 for the road (Until another bike comes along to replace it again, of course...). This thread will document my project of converting my once-streetable Ninja 650 into a track-only, lightweight machine. Luckily, I already completed some modifications to the bike before the crash (Suspension, ergonomics, etc) so our work is cut out, but there is still a lot we can do! Current plans include:

  • More suspension work (Cartridges and revalves)
  • Intake/Exhaust
  • Race Bodywork
  • Ergonomics
  • Electrical
  • Lightening
  • And so much more!
While this won't be an all-out racebike, I do have a lot of ideas in mind to make this one of the best 650s out there on the track. I've already torn the bike down a bit to remove the unneeded easy stuff...

IMAG0172[1].jpg

...and with a bit of luck, we'll be looking like this in no-time!

h2r.jpg

Okay, maybe not that, but it'll still be a pretty sick ride.

Stay tuned and enjoy!

Current Build Photo - Updated 04/15/16:

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Milestone Pictures:

06/20/15



06/20/15



06/12/15



Mod List

Pre-Build Mods

-ZX6R Front End
-----2013 Forks
-----2013 Triples
-----2013 Monobloc calipers
-----Wheel
-Penske 8983 Rear Shock
-GiPro Gear Indicator
-Spencer's Seat Mod
-R&G Radiator Guard
-Ebay Adjustable Folding Levers
-BRP Clutch Springs
-Orange Pro Grip Rim Tape
-Pitbull Rear Spools


Track Build Mods

-Catalyst Racing Composites Race Body Work
-----DIY Superbike Tail and Front Fairing with 1199 Zero Gravity Marc 1 Windscreen
-DIY Custom Paint Job
-DIY Custom Race Wire Harness
-Arrow Mini Twins Evo Exhaust
-Power Commander V w/ Ignition Module
-BMC Race Air Filter
-Ohlins NIX 30 Cartridge Kit
-Brembo RCS19 Front Master Cylinder
-Brembo T-Drive Front Rotors
-Brembo Z04 Front Pads
-MMR Rear Rotor
-Spiegler ZX6R Rennsport Front Brake Lines
-EK 3D 520 GP Chain
-Drive Systems Superlight Aluminum Rear Sprocket
-Drive Systems Front Sprocket
-Woodcraft Rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip Ons
-CRG GP Clutch Perch & Lever
-GB Racing Engine Covers
-Motion Pro Rev2 Quick Throttle
-Lightech Chain Adjusters
-Antigravity SC-1 4 Cell Lithium Battery
-Driven Halo Gas Cap
-Driven Engine Block-Off Plates
-Samco Silicone Coolant Hoses
-Tech Spec Snake Skin Tank Grips
-Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SC V2 Tires
-Renthal Single Compound Grips- Hard/Black

Removed Mods

-Spiegler Custom Front SS Brake Lines- ABS Functionality
-Apex Adjustable Clip Ons
-Cycle Pirates Adjustable Pegs
-Woodcraft Frame Sliders
-MotoDynamics Integrated Tail Light
-Targa X-Tail Fender Eliminator Kit
-Pyramid Plastics Fenda Extenda
-Progrip 717 Grips

Specs
Weight: 390lbs fully wet
Horsepower: 68.75hp
 

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Considering Olympus put in a good baseline for a build and lap times, I can't wait to see how this turns out. Did you happen to capture the original wet weight?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Considering Olympus put in a good baseline for a build and lap times, I can't wait to see how this turns out. Did you happen to capture the original wet weight?
No, but that's a good idea. I still have everything I took off the bike, so I'll weigh it and put everything off the bike on a scale and use that as my baseline.
 

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What's wrong with the 2013 forks that make you want to change the guts? Lots of people are already saying they are a good suspension without getting new guts.

Good luck with the weight, it's gonna get expensive but if you are seriously going to drop money into the project here goes some suggestions:
Race battery
Titanium or CF exhaust
Titanium headers
Lighter rotors
CF rims
Cf or fiberglass body work
Titanium bolts
Zip tie all oem metal fasteners
Rear sets


I'm sure there's more but I'm ready to play a video game at this point lol. If you can break 400 lbs. wet that would be cool, the stock SS bikes are in the 410-20 range. My friend Frank got his Gsxr to sub 400 with a battery and exhaust swap I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Project Supertwin To The Manx

Check out that thread for some help with some of your issues mentioned in track day thread.
I love his build and I can't wait to see more of his stuff this year, and I've actually been going through his blog to get some more ideas. For the specific piece you're talking about, he fabricated a custom piece for his custom bodywork, so not much help there. He'll still be a great resource when I get to fabricating parts and for general assistance

What's wrong with the 2013 forks that make you want to change the guts? Lots of people are already saying they are a good suspension without getting new guts.

Good luck with the weight, it's gonna get expensive but if you are seriously going to drop money into the project here goes some suggestions:
Race battery
Titanium or CF exhaust
Titanium headers
Lighter rotors
CF rims
Cf or fiberglass body work
Titanium bolts
Zip tie all oem metal fasteners
Rear sets


I'm sure there's more but I'm ready to play a video game at this point lol. If you can break 400 lbs. wet that would be cool, the stock SS bikes are in the 410-20 range. My friend Frank got his Gsxr to sub 400 with a battery and exhaust swap I believe.
Nothing's wrong with them, but I can definitely see room for improvement on the track. They still feel great, but I'm getting a good bit of brake dive (If nothing else, I'll be getting new, stiffer springs for front and rear), I'd like turn in to be a bit better now (Which is really just dropping the forks), and it general everything feels a bit too wavy/soft for me. I'd like a stiffer front end, but there's not enough meaningful adjustment on the stock forks. Worlds better than stock, but still.

I do have that stuff on my list- other plans include tearing out and fabricating/buying lighter weight stuff for the subframe/fairing stay, removing ABS (Requires new ECU, I think), and some other stuff. I don't have the dough for CF fairings, since this isn't an all-out build, but I did purchase a nice fiberglass set yesterday. We'll weigh them when they come in, of course. :) Also, CF rims are on the list, but more down the line.

Sub 400 would be great, sounds like a good, achievable goal to me. Also, I have a house party my dealer holds every year in 2-3 weeks that includes free dyno runs- I don't plan on doing internal engine mods (Spare a slipper clutch if I see fit, but plans can always change), but I do want to take a dyno run of my stock bike and take it again next year with the mods I've done and see what kind of improvement there is.
 

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SAD!!! That was such a pretty bike to get all banged up. I don't doubt that you'll do a great job making it into a track toy though. Can't wait to see where you take it.
 

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On the ZX6R forums, anyone serious about tracking/racing upgrades the stock suspension and those upgrades can be dependent on the race series they are in. I guess that means it depends on how serious you are going to get with this build and your budget (which must be decent considering the costs of these other builds).

Since you have a 2013 front end, it is most likely under sprung but I don't recall your weight. They were a bit stiffer in previous years. Also, the weight of the bike comes into the equation and your final weight is a bit up in the air right now. If I remember correctly, kojiiro is on the lighter side so suspensions may work from the factory for him.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
SAD!!! That was such a pretty bike to get all banged up. I don't doubt that you'll do a great job making it into a track toy though. Can't wait to see where you take it.
Yeah, it was pretty sad. :( Oh well, you deal with what you're dealt (Or, what you've dealt yourself). I think this will be a very fun project, and I'm hoping to end up with a unique build (I've only seen one or two bikes each time at the track that aren't an I4 or a ducati, and those are usually still streetable)

On the ZX6R forums, anyone serious about tracking/racing upgrades the stock suspension and those upgrades can be dependent on the race series they are in. I guess that means it depends on how serious you are going to get with this build and your budget (which must be decent considering the costs of these other builds).

Since you have a 2013 front end, it is most likely under sprung but I don't recall your weight. They were a bit stiffer in previous years. Also, the weight of the bike comes into the equation and your final weight is a bit up in the air right now. If I remember correctly, kojiiro is on the lighter side so suspensions may work from the factory for him.
I'm thinking about picking up an AK-20 cartridge set from Traxxon Dynamics. They did a great job with my shock, and I've heard good things about their cartridge kit; either that or the Ohlin's kit for more $$$. The spring is definitely undersprung, especially for the track. Luckily I weight 125 so it's not as big of a deal, but I can definitely feel it. Also remember, I (think) I'm the only guy with a 2013+ front end on my bike, at least I know I am on this forum (Pretty sure Olympic and Just-Us Racing use the older years), so the other guys have the stiffer springs.

I'm planning on doing most of the weight cutting before the fall/winter, and do all the suspension items then when the weight is settled in more.
 

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I thught Just Us had the 13 front end, and thats where you got the confirmation that it would fit with the correct bearing?

Have you seen the price of CF rims? If CF bodywork is out f the question, the rims most definitely will be, they will cost roughly half the price of a new old stock gen 3.

At 125, I am not sure it would be undersprung for you. Too late now but if you had a zip tie on one of the tubes you could get a rough gauge of how much travel you use, and while on the brakes that would show if you are close to the limits or not.

Did you ever have it tuned (suspension) before hitting the track? I mean by an actual tuner? That makes a world of difference. For us here its a $25 affair and I am fortunate enough to have my local tuner also work in the same building as me lol.

Was your rear nt sprung for you when you bought it?

While you arent riding, you should buy the suspension bible, it will give you a better understanding of how the suspension stuff works.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ah how I have missed suspension talk...

Nope, Just Us uses a 2010 ZX6R front end: PROJECT SUPERTWIN TO THE MANX: Project Supertwin Scores Some Bits!. I got confirmation the bearings would work by calling a bearing company and asking. :)

Good fiberglass race bodywork already weighs like 5-7 pounds, spending multiple times more money on CF fairings to save a pound, maybe two? There are much better and cheaper ways to save weight; besides, I can repair a fiberglass panel much easier and cheaper and a CF panel. Carbon Fiber wheels are expensive, yes, but they are unsprung, rotational mass, a double whammy right there. A set may save you 10 pounds (Especially since our wheels are already far from exceptional), and that's a huge deal for wheels. Better handling, faster braking, faster acceleration, on top of reducing the weight a lot.

Haven't had the chance to do much suspension testing on the track, was planning to the session after I crashed. I tuned it to my liking on the street, but no, I haven't had a professional go over it all. With my thinking, the rear shock was already tuned by Traxxon, my front end sag is good, and there isn't enough adjustment in the front to matter much. I've already done most of what a tuner can do with my setup. When I get new cartridges, springs, and revalves for the front and rear this winter, however, Markbilt racing has a special at the track days I go to where they do a full tune and geometry adjustments and such for $60, which I will be doing first thing next year.

I do have the suspension bible, great read. It's been a bit, so it may be useful to reread it again, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Valid points- that rate seems way too low to my eyes, but ah well. Feels soft to me, we'll dive deeper when we get to that part later. :)

On a side note, I forgot to mention I purchased a clip-on bar to replace my damaged one, which should come in tomorrow. At that point, I might start diving into the wiring a bit. Also, I ordered a race fairing set from Catalyst Composites, which should be here by the end of the month, at which point I'll break out the paint.

I'll be going on a family vacation next week, so sadly no updates to be had during that time, but we'll get right back to work when I get back.
 

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Valid points- that rate seems way too low to my eyes, but ah well. Feels soft to me, we'll dive deeper when we get to that part later. :)

On a side note, I forgot to mention I purchased a clip-on bar to replace my damaged one, which should come in tomorrow. At that point, I might start diving into the wiring a bit. Also, I ordered a race fairing set from Catalyst Composites, which should be here by the end of the month, at which point I'll break out the paint.

I'll be going on a family vacation next week, so sadly no updates to be had during that time, but we'll get right back to work when I get back.
They are 25ish miles north of me. You may want to speak with them if you have plans on doing a below-the-triple set up. I know they did a project like that which required minor fairings trimming, and also a custom fairing stay, which I do not think they sell anymore. I have the email trail from one of their reps if you want to see it for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
They are 25ish miles north of me. You may want to speak with them if you have plans on doing a below-the-triple set up. I know they did a project like that which required minor fairings trimming, and also a custom fairing stay, which I do not think they sell anymore. I have the email trail from one of their reps if you want to see it for more info.
I'd be interested in that email. I know for the earlier gen bikes they had a custom fairing stay and fairings, but nothing like that for the newer gens.

Also, Kawasaki made a 2012 model race bike with their fairings, if that's what you're talking about. I plan on doing some trimming to get the setup I want.
 

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I'd be interested in that email. I know for the earlier gen bikes they had a custom fairing stay and fairings, but nothing like that for the newer gens.

Also, Kawasaki made a 2012 model race bike with their fairings, if that's what you're talking about. I plan on doing some trimming to get the setup I want.
I PM'd you the information.
 

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My honest opinion here....

Put the race body on, do the basic track items: exhaust, rearsets, suspension, brakes and tires then just enjoy it.

If you are not building it with the strict intentions of racing it in a certain class then you kill most chance of resale when you start chopping the frame and wiring.

:2cents:
 

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3 things to spend money in the right order

1) Suspension and Chassis
2) Brakes
3) Weight Savings

4) engine build

Anything else is just extra fancy bids you want/like.

A full almost perfect for up to semi pro level racing suspension with chassis set up would be around $4500-5000. That would be like Ktech Kartidges, Ktech/Penske shock, chassis adjustment etc.

Brakes: Stainless steal lines are a must and very cheap <$100. Master cylinder comes next. Brembo full with Reservoir and lever $500ish. Rotors are not necessary but they shave on weight and have some other benefits. A good front set would be $600ish and a lightened rear would be $60-100.

Do NOT go with carbon fiber wheels. If you ever gonna dei the $ on wheels go with magnesium or similar material. Subframe is good to replace. Adam can fabricate one for around $350+ shipping. Versus swingarm if you wanna get fancy complete is about $850 new.
Ballistics/Sorai battery is the first step actually. $100-200. Aluminum fairing stay. Full titanium exhaust $600-2000 (lol).

Motor one solution: Gregg Spears. Supersport build would be around $2500-3000. Yoyodyne slipper clutch is $800.

I can go on... I have a full excel spreadsheet with every $ I spent on this bike and my previous GSXR 1000 Superbike with 200rwhp
 

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My honest opinion here....

Put the race body on, do the basic track items: exhaust, rearsets, suspension, brakes and tires then just enjoy it.

If you are not building it with the strict intentions of racing it in a certain class then you kill most chance of resale when you start chopping the frame and wiring.

:2cents:
Best advice right here. Make it track friendly and set up correct. Then spend your money on track time and tires.

You can buy take offs from me too btw
 
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