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Discussion Starter #1
i need to know if every ZR-7 has a ticking that comes from the top front of the engine. I notice it at idle mostely but it never goes away compleatly i was just wondering if it could be the cam chain or if i need to get the valves checked, i want to stay away from that cause i hear you cant check unless you take the tank off :(
 

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West Coast Moderator
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You may wanna have your valves checked if you haven't had 'em done in a while. How many miles do you have on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the bike is a 2000 it has 1,556 miles i bought it used for $4000 but it has no book or tool kit and the guy i bought it from couldent tell me about any of the service
 

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Dirty Harry.... Moderator
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Jason, I can only speculate that you have less than 500 miles on your bike or just a little over 1,000 miles on the machine. Correct me if I'm wrong. If you have over 800+ miles on the bike, be sure that the exhaust manifold bolts are at correct torque. From experience I know this can be a problem. But, I have a very good dealership here and they replaced the manifold gaskets under the bike's warranty (but they warned me that this was my responsibility as the owner), so I got away with one. But that was one horrendous ticking noise. If you have less than 500 miles, your first service should solve your problem. If not, nag the **** out of the dealer to get it right. Now, on the other hand you have more than a year on the MC and more than, say 3,000 miles, it's gonna cost ya some bucks unless your'e mechanically inclined. Good luck, man. Tom :cool:

BTW, if it is the exhaust manifold bolts that are loose, another member here referred me to HarborFreightTools for a good torque wrench.
 

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Dirty Harry.... Moderator
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Jason Smith said:
the bike is a 2000 it has 1,556 miles i bought it used for $4000 but it has no book or tool kit and the guy i bought it from couldent tell me about any of the service
I see that I posted a little late, no warranty? Have the valves checked by the dealer. Check the exhaust manifold bolts yourself and if you find that they are "finger loose" then let the mechs fix that too. Then go beat the crap out of the guy ya bought it from (just kidding). Tom :rolleyes: :mad:
 

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West Coast Moderator
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If you want the service schedule, I can e-mail it to you. It's right out of the factory manual. It covers everything. Tom brought up a good one, I forgot about the exhaust flanges. They do tend to loosen up. I check mine about monthly now, but haven't had to sinch them up lately.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the exhaust bolts and flange cover did come off pretty easy today so ill have to let you know if the sound goes away. The service scedual would be great i can save it in my favorite places! if it doesent clear up i think ill try to do a valve adjustment after my dealer charges me 69.99 for the service manual.
 

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West Coast Moderator
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e-mail you're address to me direct. I can't do an attachment through the site. my e-mail address is in my signature below.
 

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Wheelie for Safety
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Hi Jason,

The service manual is very handy to have, you should get one. It cost less than $40.00.

Regarding the ticking sound, the eight exhaust manifold nuts (near the head) should be tightning with a 12 mm short end wrench. Check them often.

If you still have the ticking sound after tightning the exhaust manifold nuts, then what you are hearing are the valves. As you stated it is normal to hear some ticking, so you may not have a problem. However, the manual does say the valves should be checked at 600 miles. Then every 6,000 after that. I have about 2,300 miles on mine and I have not checked them yet. I have heard some people that waited till 11,000 miles before checking them. Others say they had theirs checked at 2,000 miles and they were tight.

If you have no previous service history on the bike, then I would change the oil and filter right away.

Andy
 

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The Commander
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"... the eight exhaust manifold nuts (near the head) should be tightning with a 12 mm short end wrench. "

I would revise that slightly to say that you should use a 12mm socket with a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 20 ft-lbs. Overtightening those bolts can cause just as many problems as undertightening them.

Regarding the ticking sound, it really depends on how loud it is. There seems to always be some level of ticking with our shim-under-bucket valve setup, even when the valves are perfectly adjusted. If it's just a faint ticking, louder when you first fire up the engine and then it fades as the engine warms, then your bike probably sounds like all of the rest of ours. If it's a loud ticking that is constant, then you may need to worry.
 

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Wheelie for Safety
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Jarel and Tom,

You both mention using a torque wrench. One problem I see with that is you cannot get a socket with an extension to fit on the exhaust nuts (not the middle ones). So I assume you are using a wobble. If you use a wobble socket on a torque wrench you will get a false torque.

I have stripped enough bolts/nuts in the past to know where the limit is. One suggestion to others out there who have not stripped a bolt/nut is to go to the hardware store and get a bolt and nut of the same size (in this case 12 MM) and use a couple of wrenches and stripe away. That way you will know how tight is too tight.

Scott, good point about tighening the nuts when cold.

Andy
 

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Dirty Harry.... Moderator
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Yes, Andy the oil cooler presents a little of a problem on the middle bolts. But I've managed with a small variety of extensions to get the job done. And yes it did try my patience. Tom :)
 

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West Coast Moderator
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A trick I did was take the the mount with the reflectors off, cut the reflectors off so the mount is recessed between the frame rails and then put the mount back on so that it still functions to help hold the oil cooler in place. It gained room to reach in with the short handled wrench for quick checking the nuts and it also makes it alot easier to see. And as Jarel stated, a 3" extension works just fine and the torque is not off enough to worry about. 25 lbs. of torque on a 3" extension isn't going to twist the extension. BTW Andy, the wrench/socket size to use on the exhaust nuts on the heads are 12mm, the studs are either 8 or 10 mm. Bolt and nut size is measured by diameters (inside for nuts, outside for bolts), not the wrench size it takes to turn it. :cool:
 
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