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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. New to the forum and delighted to be here. Have a 2017 z1000sx and was changing plugs and air filter. Like a fool I unscrewed the throttle position sensor, heard the noise of it unwinding and now have engine light in with codes. The bike is running fine but the codes are annoying. I think it all stems from the removal of the sensor. Any ideas how to line evening up again. Have the sensor lined up as close as possible to the original position. Something isn't right though. All help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm not at all familiar with your bike but unfortunately this may be something that will require a dealer or authorized independent shop to line up or recalibrate with their fancy electronic gizmos.
 

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.....what are the codes??? Those TPS sometimes have a (paint) mark on mounting from factory where they were. They are little spring loaded potentiometers. The sensors can also be adjusted by reading voltage or resistance.

Don't own a Z1000 but have a Suzuki GSX-S1000 and we use a Kawasaki split connector (57001-1538) to get between ECU and TPS, read with a multimeter (nothing fancy), and adjust. We use the Kawasaki connector because is much less expensive than the Suzuki....and same thing, sold as tool...I mean $20 maybe, ebay or such. The Suzzy also have means to do it through the bike's display, but don't know if the Z1000 would have it. A factory manual would tell you.

The manual would also tell you voltage or resistance. In the Suzzy should be between 1.1 VDC and 1.4 VDC from close to open throttle........does not mean is same for your bike. Factory manual....factory manual. We should all memorize our factory manuals.

.....if you google, you'll find people who have done this on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
13, 32, 62 are the fault codes now. Thanks for your feedback folks. At work but will have a proper read through your replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
.....what are the codes??? Those TPS sometimes have a (paint) mark on mounting from factory where they were. They are little spring loaded potentiometers. The sensors can also be adjusted by reading voltage or resistance.

Don't own a Z1000 but have a Suzuki GSX-S1000 and we use a Kawasaki split connector (57001-1538) to get between ECU and TPS, read with a multimeter (nothing fancy), and adjust. We use the Kawasaki connector because is much less expensive than the Suzuki....and same thing, sold as tool...I mean $20 maybe, ebay or such. The Suzzy also have means to do it through the bike's display, but don't know if the Z1000 would have it. A factory manual would tell you.

The manual would also tell you voltage or resistance. In the Suzzy should be between 1.1 VDC and 1.4 VDC from close to open throttle........does not mean is same for your bike. Factory manual....factory manual. We should all memorize our factory manuals.

.....if you google, you'll find people who have done this on your bike.
Hi, thanks for the help, appreciate it. Any idea what the default position of the sensor would be. I think when the butterflies are fully open, the sensor should slide in and line up in the original position. As the butterflies close it should tension the sensor I think
 

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Potentiometers have three wires, voltage is lower at close throttle, and higher open throttle. Whether resistance is up or down, depends on which pair of wires you use. It does not matter. A factory manual would tell you.

.......This should not be a big deal at all, if you know how to do it. It would take about 5 mins. The bike should have a calibration screen, but can't tell you how to get on it as I don't own one. If you were a member of a specific forum for your model, am sure it will be around how to do it. You just have to google it. The factory manual is another source if you can get one.

For instance, Fault Code 62 - Also, WTF is this? | Kawasaki Z1000 Forum / .. just googling a little. Am not saying this is your specific problem but this is how to start getting at the solution w/out a factory manual. ,,,,,there is nothing wrong, you simply got it out of whack, and needs recalibration. You just need to know how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This should not be a big deal at all, if you know how to do it. The bike should have a calibration screen, but can't tell you how to get on it as I don't own one. If you were a member of a specific forum for your model, am sure it will be around how to do it. You just have to google it. The factory manual is another source if you can get one.

For instance, Fault Code 62 - Also, WTF is this? | Kawasaki Z1000 Forum / .. just googling a little. Am not saying this is your specific problem but this is how to start getting at the solution w/out a factory manual. ,,,,,there is nothing wrong, you simply got it out of whack, and needs recalibration.
Thanks for that. Appreciate your help.
This should not be a big deal at all, if you know how to do it. The bike should have a calibration screen, but can't tell you how to get on it as I don't own one. If you were a member of a specific forum for your model, am sure it will be around how to do it. You just have to google it. The factory manual is another source if you can get one.

For instance, Fault Code 62 - Also, WTF is this? | Kawasaki Z1000 Forum / .. just googling a little. Am not saying this is your specific problem but this is how to start getting at the solution w/out a factory manual. ,,,,,there is nothing wrong, you simply got it out of whack, and needs recalibration.
 

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I'll describe how we do it in the Suzuki: we jumper a connector under the seat, that puts the display on 'dealer mode". The Displays then shows a '-C00" related to the TPS. The bar on the left is in the middle if withing range, on top if it is beyond upper range, or at the bottom if it beyond bottom range.

.....we simply loosen the torx T5 screw, rotate slightly the sensor until the bar is in the middle and retighten

If we want precision calibration using the voltmeter method, then we use the connector tool from Kawasaki or Suzuki I mentioned, and a voltmeter, and adjust with the VDC range provided by factory manual

....either way the ECU quits flashing warnings. Am sure the Kawasaki is same if you research it. The means to enter calibration screen would be different, and the voltages would be different. The Suzzi also have painted markings aligned; indicating where was from factory. ..and of course, you can keep adjusting until codes disappear, but is a very rough way of doing it.
 

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The Kawasaki does not have the screen, but I think you can do it ,anyway. It just won't be as simple.

Even if you screwed these beyond repair, check eBay. Throttle bodies , complete, don't sell for much at all.
 
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