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Forks werr good so I left them alone. Triple was also in good condition so I left it. Rim is still gold painted so will be powder coated either black to match the back or both will be a new color after I am due for a new tire. The gold is growing on me but when it gets dirty its really obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
DJ, did you run into any issues regarding the paint chipping on the forks/triples? I'm worried that it'll get damaged when installing them. Didn't realize you could just paint the wheels- really debating at this point whether I want to powder coat the wheels or not, it seems like $200 is pretty average for a set.

The gold is really growing on me as well, at least on the fork side. As long as they don't get bid on much higher than $200, I will be buying those forks/triples I listed earlier tomorrow, and here's to hoping the gold finish looks good enough to keep.
 

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Glad to see you are takung the leap. Are you going tobypass abs? Dont paont if you can afford a powdetcoating. Mine were purchased paintrd and a but if brake fluid eats through. Right now I am debating on green, red or gold r ikea ms. Gold matches the forks and shock. Green would be a new look and cant really go wrong with red/black. Powdercoating is 50-60 dollars per wheel here. Try to use an ebay sniping app/ website so you dont lose. I lost on calipers and felt badbut it was ok cause I changed my mind to the nissins.
 

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Nope, no issues with the paint chipping. Just be careful.

The wheels are painted from the factory so why not? Admittedly they've got to have a more durable paint than the spray cans I used. So far, so good though.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Glad to see you are takung the leap. Are you going tobypass abs? Dont paont if you can afford a powdetcoating. Mine were purchased paintrd and a but if brake fluid eats through. Right now I am debating on green, red or gold r ikea ms. Gold matches the forks and shock. Green would be a new look and cant really go wrong with red/black. Powdercoating is 50-60 dollars per wheel here. Try to use an ebay sniping app/ website so you dont lose. I lost on calipers and felt badbut it was ok cause I changed my mind to the nissins.
I'm glad I'm doing it too- I love projects like this. :) I swear, doing this informational thread has really helped me understand it all, and there's still more to do. I'm keeping the ABS, no way I'm giving that up: I know of a welder who does good work at a good price, and I'll have him weld the steering stops on my 636 triple at the same time he welds the ABS sensor mount. I'll make sure to use a sniping website, I figure 215 is my max. Once I buy the forks/triples it may be a little before I buy the rest, as I just want to spend some time taking the forks apart, putting in new seals, cleaning, painting, putting on new steering bearings, etc.

On the wheel, there are new 636 wheels on Ebay for $180 that come in black, grey, red or unfinished. Not sure if I want to buy the unfinished and powder coat/paint the thing right away, which means doing the same for the rear wheel, or buy the black and deal with the painting later.

Nope, no issues with the paint chipping. Just be careful.

The wheels are painted from the factory so why not? Admittedly they've got to have a more durable paint than the spray cans I used. So far, so good though.
Cool, that's good to know. We'll see which path I take, just wanted to make sure
 

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On the wheel, there are new 636 wheels on Ebay for $180 that come in black, grey, red or unfinished. Not sure if I want to buy the unfinished and powder coat/paint the thing right away, which means doing the same for the rear wheel, or buy the black and deal with the painting later.
Assuming it's a quality piece, that's a great deal. I'd have been all over it. I'm not sure if powdercoat makes a good base for paint or not so maybe try to find out and keep it in consideration. You don't want to remove powdercoat if you can avoid it.
 

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I thought stock wheels were powdercoated?

Thats the reason I mentioned powdercoating over painting, because of durability. Mine (the 636 rattle canned wheel) got hit by some brake fluid and started stripping the paint. Not an issue with the stock wheel.

I saw those cheap wheels and I emailed the seller. He said they are a direct mold and made in China. You know me I will jump on a good deal n a heart beat and have used chinese made levers. That said I have researched these and found no good feedback. I am not saying they are bad, I jsut dont want to take the risk on the part that keeps me on the road. You can say the same about brakes but I read many reviews stating they were ok with not problems and 1-2 isloated reviews on them causing a locked up tire.

I am not familiar with how exact the mounting is on your ABS needs to be so that is why for me I would not want to risk using it. Another thing I just thought about was ABS has its own electronic pump right? Will the caliper volume play a factor in the whole system operating correctly? I might be being too cautious but this is your life on the line here if something is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
I thought stock wheels were powdercoated?

Thats the reason I mentioned powdercoating over painting, because of durability. Mine (the 636 rattle canned wheel) got hit by some brake fluid and started stripping the paint. Not an issue with the stock wheel.

I saw those cheap wheels and I emailed the seller. He said they are a direct mold and made in China. You know me I will jump on a good deal n a heart beat and have used chinese made levers. That said I have researched these and found no good feedback. I am not saying they are bad, I jsut dont want to take the risk on the part that keeps me on the road. You can say the same about brakes but I read many reviews stating they were ok with not problems and 1-2 isloated reviews on them causing a locked up tire.

I am not familiar with how exact the mounting is on your ABS needs to be so that is why for me I would not want to risk using it. Another thing I just thought about was ABS has its own electronic pump right? Will the caliper volume play a factor in the whole system operating correctly? I might be being too cautious but this is your life on the line here if something is faulty.
Explain what you mean by a locked up tire? I'm looking at these because I can't seem to find any other wheels on EBay that are not either way more expensive or bent. Can you link to those reviews?

In my mind, the ABS sensor mount is relatively "easy" to get right. As long as it is the right distance from the rotor and in the middle of the ABS ring, then you're golden. If all else fails, the guys I talk to at me dealer assure me that if something is wrong with the sensor, it just won't work- there is no in-between "It kinda works". Also, the only thing that would affect the ABS pump would be the master cylinder- I'll double check with my dealer tomorrow, but a beefier master cylinder shouldn't impair the ABS functionality, otherwise everyone with ABS who wants to upgrade to a shiny new Brembo would be screaming.

***EDIT***Just got off the phone with the dealer. At first, the guy said it would affect ABS functionality, but after some talking through, his final answer was that the caliper and master cylinder will have no effect on how the ABS functions as it has a separate unit with separate pistons and pressure control chambers. One thing he mentioned was that Ducati (one of their brands) make a bunch of bikes with ABS that have different sized masters, but don't have different ABS units.

A good video on what the ABS unit actually does: ABS Informational Video
As you can see, there is a separate unit that either cuts off or increases pressure, with nothing else interacting with it.
 

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Assuming it's a quality piece, that's a great deal. I'd have been all over it. I'm not sure if powdercoat makes a good base for paint or not so maybe try to find out and keep it in consideration. You don't want to remove powdercoat if you can avoid it.
Based on my professional career in industrial paints (and some powder coating) I can say for sure...it depends!

But really, usually powdercoat makes a fine base coat. I have worked with multi coat military systems where they were trying implement the powder for the first two coats and liquid for the top coat. Usually a scuff and paint is sufficient. My recommendation would be to use a two component solvent borne coating system. Typically you get better adhesion due to the slight chemical bond from the solvent cross linking with the previous coating. Water borne will often make a candy like shell and flake off at the first sign of damage. All that said, good surface prep is always key.
 

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Explain what you mean by a locked up tire? I'm looking at these because I can't seem to find any other wheels on EBay that are not either way more expensive or bent. Can you link to those reviews?

In my mind, the ABS sensor mount is relatively "easy" to get right. As long as it is the right distance from the rotor and in the middle of the ABS ring, then you're golden. If all else fails, the guys I talk to at me dealer assure me that if something is wrong with the sensor, it just won't work- there is no in-between "It kinda works". Also, the only thing that would affect the ABS pump would be the master cylinder- I'll double check with my dealer tomorrow, but a beefier master cylinder shouldn't impair the ABS functionality, otherwise everyone with ABS who wants to upgrade to a shiny new Brembo would be screaming.

***EDIT***Just got off the phone with the dealer. At first, the guy said it would affect ABS functionality, but after some talking through, his final answer was that the caliper and master cylinder will have no effect on how the ABS functions as it has a separate unit with separate pistons and pressure control chambers. One thing he mentioned was that Ducati (one of their brands) make a bunch of bikes with ABS that have different sized masters, but don't have different ABS units.

A good video on what the ABS unit actually does: ABS Informational Video
As you can see, there is a separate unit that either cuts off or increases pressure, with nothing else interacting with it.
My bad, I meant a locked up tire resulting from cheap ebay levers, not the wheel. I was referencing it because the tires are made in China, and I didn't want to use them, but at the same time, my levers are also made in China and bought through Ebay. Either one malfunctioning would result in a bad day, and I referenced someone stating that their levers caused the tire to lock up. Post #20 here is similar, but the one I Was referring to was probably on an R1 or GSXR forum. It had something to do with the "cup" of the lever not being deep enough and wasn't releasing pressure.
 

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I thought stock wheels were powdercoated?

Thats the reason I mentioned powdercoating over painting, because of durability. Mine (the 636 rattle canned wheel) got hit by some brake fluid and started stripping the paint. Not an issue with the stock wheel.
I was able to easily sand the oem coating (whatever it was) on the 636 wheel. If it were powdercoat I assume it would have been more resistant to that. You can't draw conclusions on the oem coating based on results with spray paint.
 

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Powder coat isn't really that much harder than liquid paint when cured when considering similar coating compositions.

There is a giant misconception that powder coating is this miracle coating system that will never peal, crack, chip or fade and it's 100% incorrect:AR15firin. It can be harder if applied correctly and baked correctly (and depending on the system selected). It can also fall off quickly if not done well. Liquid paint can also be highly chemical resistance, it doesn't have to be powder to do so.

The one major benefit that powder has over liquid is it's ability to coat irregular shaped objects. Professional painting is a highly skilled industry. Irregular shaped objects make it very difficult to spray liquid paint at a consistent thickness and too much coating leaves a poor finish as well increases the likelihood of delamination due to the internal stresses from the cross-linking process. Powder also leaves a less than stellar finish which is why it's not used as the final coat on body panels. Sometimes it's used as base coats, but it's typically used on parts only.

rant over:rant
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Powder coat isn't really that much harder than liquid paint when cured when considering similar coating compositions.

There is a giant misconception that powder coating is this miracle coating system that will never peal, crack, chip or fade and it's 100% incorrect:AR15firin. It can be harder if applied correctly and baked correctly (and depending on the system selected). It can also fall off quickly if not done well. Liquid paint can also be highly chemical resistance, it doesn't have to be powder to do so.

The one major benefit that powder has over liquid is it's ability to coat irregular shaped objects. Professional painting is a highly skilled industry. Irregular shaped objects make it very difficult to spray liquid paint at a consistent thickness and too much coating leaves a poor finish as well increases the likelihood of delamination due to the internal stresses from the cross-linking process. Powder also leaves a less than stellar finish which is why it's not used as the final coat on body panels. Sometimes it's used as base coats, but it's typically used on parts only.

rant over:rant
Both paint and powder coating can be quality finishes: agreed. I highly doubt spray paint will be better than a professional application of either, though, which is why I'm choosing to go another path (No offence to others). I'll be powder coating them, however I'm having trouble deciding whether to go with the black powder coated new front wheel and worry about changing color later, or going with the unfinished wheel and taking both that and my stock rear wheel to be coated orange straight away. Opinions? Will having to strip the front wheel at a later date cost too much more?

Oh, and I have officially taken the first step in actually performing this swap (Won the auction for 2004 forks and lower/upper triples). The next little bit will be rebuilding, possible painting and general screwing around with them.
Totally set on getting the forks reannodized orange. :) Seems to be around $100.
 

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Both paint and powder coating can be quality finishes: agreed. I highly doubt spray paint will be better than a professional application of either, though, which is why I'm choosing to go another path (No offence to others). I'll be powder coating them, however I'm having trouble deciding whether to go with the black powder coated new front wheel and worry about changing color later, or going with the unfinished wheel and taking both that and my stock rear wheel to be coated orange straight away. Opinions? Will having to strip the front wheel at a later date cost too much more?

Oh, and I have officially taken the first step in actually performing this swap (Won the auction for 2004 forks and lower/upper triples). The next little bit will be rebuilding, possible painting and general screwing around with them.
Totally set on getting the forks reannodized orange. :) Seems to be around $100.
The cool thing about this is you can just take the upper off and drop that off to have it reanodized. You gotta be able to trust they dont get anything inside the tube though. Dont forget you will now need caliper spacers to space them out to the required 300mm. From there you can keep your original rotor or whatever come with your new wheels. Dont snap your rotor bolts like a guy I know.

Why not just go with the black for now and enjoy the black color for the first couple of thousand miles? Then when you are due for wheels you can change. This way it feels you constantly have something to do to the bike and also you can get the bike running with the new front end now instead of later waiting for money that you instead spent on powder coating? Even if you got the black now, you can always have it changed to whatever color you want later. They blast the paint when you get them powdercoated dont they? Orange sounds pretty nice. I am not sure what color I want to do with mine.

Congrats on the win. Also, not sure about what tire you will be running but depending on the profile of the tire and height (I run Q3s as an example) you should lower your fork tubes. It feels soooo good with them being 12mm lower than what the service manual recommends for a guy my weight. Man I cant get enough of it now lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
The cool thing about this is you can just take the upper off and drop that off to have it reanodized. You gotta be able to trust they dont get anything inside the tube though. Dont forget you will now need caliper spacers to space them out to the required 300mm. From there you can keep your original rotor or whatever come with your new wheels. Dont snap your rotor bolts like a guy I know.

Why not just go with the black for now and enjoy the black color for the first couple of thousand miles? Then when you are due for wheels you can change. This way it feels you constantly have something to do to the bike and also you can get the bike running with the new front end now instead of later waiting for money that you instead spent on powder coating? Even if you got the black now, you can always have it changed to whatever color you want later. They blast the paint when you get them powdercoated dont they? Orange sounds pretty nice. I am not sure what color I want to do with mine.

Congrats on the win. Also, not sure about what tire you will be running but depending on the profile of the tire and height (I run Q3s as an example) you should lower your fork tubes. It feels soooo good with them being 12mm lower than what the service manual recommends for a guy my weight. Man I cant get enough of it now lol.
Actually, getting it in the tube is one of the points of hard anodizing it- harder surface means less friction means better suspension performance. Ending up with a cool color is nice side effect, though!
Didn't forget about the caliper spacers, but not sure if I can use regular spacers, or have to buy special ones? Either way I'll try not to snap the bolts like "some guy who totally isn't you" ;)

My main concern with the wheel was that if I got it black, I would have to pay a good amount more money to get it stripped rather than just sending it in? Not sure if they sand blast everything by default, though. I have time to think, either way.

I've always wanted to drop the forks, and heck since I'll be getting the clip-ons I'll have to drop it around an inch anyway. (25mm drop) - (10mm longer forks) = (15mm drop from stock). Does anyone know how much to drop the bike to make it neutral? The bike is pretty squatted, at least according to Bradmeister. Also, I'll be taking measurements throughout to record changes in wheelbase length, rake, offset, etc.

I'm excited! :D
 

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If it were me I would just coat the wheel immediately. They are going to abrasive blast the wheel either way. They need a pretty coarse profile (2-3 mils) for most powders. Why put bearings in it and pay to have a tire mounted just to turn around and pay to have the tire demounted, possibly damage the bearing on removal and risk breaking a rotor bolt just to then pay to put everything back on? Seems silly to me. Just commit to doing the job. Jmho
 

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There are a few lical shops here that specialize in auto powdercoating. That$60 includes blasting and the actual powdercoating. Have you checked for local shops and asked around yet?

Regarding the squat: on initial instal the forks had 4mm of tube protruding from the top triples. 5-6mm if you count the cap. I never viewedthe bike from the side but after I dropped it 12 mm the bike looks even/parallel with the ground. That might reinforce what brad said of the squat.
 

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Just keep in mind that lower the front is not the same as raising the rear. I don't remember Brad's findings exactly but I seem to remember the rear wanted to come up. I'll have to double check that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
How do you actually "measure" whether is too much squat / anti-squat?
 

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How do you actually "measure" whether is too much squat / anti-squat?
That's a good question. Maybe Brad will swing by to help explain. I assume it involves wheel base, rake, weight distribution and a slew of other factors.
 
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