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Discussion Starter #1
After reading all the different posts on here about swaping the forks on the Z1K's, and Z750's for 636 units. I thought to myself hey that would be cool but it's a pretty expensive conversion after all the parts total up. Well finally the love for tinkering got the better of me. I thought, if I can find a set of forks cheap enough I'll do it.

So I scanned ebay, and found a potential set of '05-'06 636 forks with the front axle, and spacers. We went back, and forth with some offers, but finally settled on a price of $105 usd. Well below the limit I set for myself. So now it's game on. Right afterwards I bought an '05-'06 lower triple clamp for $28.50 to go with them. Over the next few months I'm going to gather the parts required for the job, and do the conversion sometime over the long, and cold Upstate New York winter.

I'll add to this post whenever I get new parts, and when I finally start working. I'll take pictures of the stages, and of the parts I use. I'm a machinist so I'm gonna try to make my own parts when I can, If the work load at work I'snt too heavy.
I'd like to machine my own axle so I can use the Z wheel on the ZX forks.

Here are pics of the forks, Axle, and lower clamp.

636 forks.jpg 636 lower triple.jpg 636 Axle.jpg
 

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good stuff. iv just dont this swap on my 06 z750. used 03 z1000 tripples tho as the steering stops line up and steering lock with a bit of grinding. im sure you are aware you will need to change the stem across from the z if using zx6 tripples. i used the stock z wheel but went with the 4x smaller bearings with larger ID to take the axle and made a bearing spacer. i found tho the forks bottom out under the standard spring on hard breaking or big bumps. have just bought 10N springs to help. (zx6 forks spring weight 8.0N, z750 9.5N) z was a bit soft to start with so went for the 10N. if i can be of any help just ask.
good luck

fred DSC_0183.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I knew I would have to change over the stearing stem from the Z clamp to the ZX clamp. I went with the 636 lower because all the z1k triple clamps I've seen so far are way more expensive than the 636 ones.

I do have a question tho. Since you used the stock front rim were you able to use the Z brake discs with the 636 calipers?
 

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yeah the discs are fine with the 05 forks, the earlier forks needed 10mm calliper spacers i believe. Getting the wheel spacers right to centre the discs in the calliper was a pain tho. when im home in 3 weeks ill measure my spacers for you as a start point. they were not 100% centred as it was two large washers plus the zx6 wheel spacers, worked fine tho and stopped a treat. you will need longer brake lines and a front mudguard.

nice bike. whats the blue cage on the left hand side? got another pic of it?

fred
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was looking on ebay for the mudguard to see whats out there. They had two blue ones on there that looked like they'd match my paint pretty well, hopefully I can pick up one of those.

You mentioned the brake lines needing to be longer. Will the 636 ones be long enough? And also will they mate up with the Z's Nissin brake control? Thanks for the help.

I like your bike, I wish they sold that version in the US. The cage looking thing on the left side is actually a louder horn that I installed. The stock one is just too quiet sounding when your trying to get a drivers attention before they totally cut you off.

Here's a little better pic of it.

IMAG0427.jpg
 

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very nice. i bought a loud horn too with an air compressor attached but cant find a space large enough to fit it :(
the zx6 brake lines are even shorter as they use clip ons not bars like the z, I went for standard z750 length plus 3" which was more than enough to reach the lower calipers and retained the stock z750 master cylinder. It depends on what master cylinder you wish to use, the tread size for the banjo bolts was the same but i tried fitting an 07m/c and the hose entry was from the bottom which fotled the throttle cables. you could rotate the throttle housing to squeeze it in or go for an earlier model that is horizontal entry. i just used stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd like to just use the stock master cyclinder. How did you add inches to the stock lines? Is there a coupler that extends the line or did you make your own?

As soon as I took the horn out of the box I knew it wasn't going to fit in the stock location so I found a piece of 1/8" thick by 1" wide aluminum that was already bent at 90 degrees. I drilled clearance holes at either end to fit it to the stock mount but with the bend it puts the horn to the side clear of the radiator, fan switch, and coolant hose.
 

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sorry i wasnt very clear on that, I ordered new lines from hel profomance, I requested standard 06 z750 lines pus 75mm (+3") they make them up to suit. The lines are slightly on the long side but i didnt want them to be too tight so I could route them my own way, you could get away with +2.5" but 3 " is fine. i can send pics if you want.
I believe you can use the stock z750 lines but they come tight whenm the forks fully extend.. not good. i had braided lines fitted before and there was not enough stretch for the lower calipers.
alot of brake companies will make hoses to a custom length at no extra charge. not sure the big brands in the states in in the uk sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll have to check to see what prices are, and then explore my options from there. I've seen some 636 ninjas with Nissin brake calipers, I wonder what those are off of. The tokicos are kinda cheaper, but still better then the stock crap brakes on the Z750's by far.

Again, thanks for the help. I want to get everything hammered down before I start working on it, that way I'm not rushing to try to find parts, and answers at the last minute.
 

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i think the 07 onwards zx6 swapped to nissin, if you find some cheap they are a straight swap, other calipers bolt straight on too, i believe from the gsxr??? but im happy with the tokicos, with ebc pads and braided lines they have plenty of feel and stopping power.
im trying to think if you will need anything else. i kept the same head bearings from the z750 not sure if they are the same as zx6?
you will need to make steering stop. can be done by drilling,tapping and an m6/8 bolt im sure i read somewhere.

fred
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got a set of tokicos for $50 off an 06. I sent you an email, wasn't sure if it went to your spam folder. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fred, I tried to send the email again earlier today. It says it's being sent everytime. I just copied, and pasted the address you gave me.

Here's the brakes I'm using. Tokico 4 piston radial mount calipers off of an '06 ZX6R.

636 tokico calipers.jpg
 

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got the email now thanks, was a problem my end. all fixed now. thats the same calipers i have. plenty good enough for fast road riding. im using EBC HH sintered pads. highly recommend these pads as have plenty of bite. bit fiddly to fit the pads but you soon get good at it.. after some swearing :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tapped the Ebay parts pipeline for a couple more pieces to the project puzzle. Got a 636 front fender, already blue for $44. Also got a '05 Z1k upper clamp at a kinda steep $165. Didn't have too much of a choice on the clamp, they don't show up all that often, and when they do they're snatched up by guys building zx10, and zx6 stunt bikes.

636 Fender.jpg Z1k Upper Clamp.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got some more parts over the weekend. Mainly odds, and ends parts. Biggest thing is a set of Race Tech 1.0 KG/MM fork springs. Other parts include new fork seals, fork fluid, brake caliper bolts, and the clamp bolts for the upper triple clamp.

Parts list so far:
<'05 ZX6R Forks - $105
<'06 ZX6R Lower triple clamp & steering stem - $28
<'06 ZX6R Tokico front brake calipers - $49
<'06 ZX6R Front fender - $44
<'06 Z1000 Upper triple clamp - $165
<'05-'06 ZX6R Brake caliper bolts - $12
<'03-'06 Z1000 Clamp bolts - $13
<Race Tech fork springs - $119
<Fork seals & fork fluid - $21

Total part cost so far - $556
Still need to get the longer brake lines, new brake pads, and brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So the snow here in New York is flying, and the salt is on the roads so I've started work on the bike. The front end is disassembled but before I put anything back on I wanted to put in the new RaceTech fork springs, and change the fork oil.

Tools recommended for the Job: Fork Compressor, Piston Puller Tool, Fork Oil Level Gauge, and a good holding fixture for the fork.

The job was pretty simple. If you don't have a fork compressor tool the hardest part is pushing the spring down far enough to get to the lock nut on the piston rod.
IMAG0618.jpg The longer spring is the Race Tech one. It's already about an inch longer so opted not to add any washers that came in the kit. When installing the spring make sure the smaller end is facing up towards the white spacer.
IMAG0620.jpg This is the compressor I made in use to put the cap assembly back on. You can see the piston puller in the middle of the fork tube. Also you can see the fork fixture I made that fits in a normal bench vise. The clamp can be spun 360 degrees so you can drain fluid without removing the fork. ***Be careful when you remove the compressor after taking the cap assembly off the piston rod. The outer, and inner tubes are now free of each other, and the inner tube will fall out if not supported.***
IMAG0622.jpg Make sure the lock nut is torqued to the cap assembly after the cap is bottomed on the piston rod. (The lock nut is a 17mm.)
IMAG0623.jpg I went with the 5w oil that was recommended in the zx6r service manual. Amount is about 12 U.S. ounces per fork after a drain, but you'll want to check the oil level from the top of the outer fork tube to be sure.
IMAG0625.jpg A Motion Pro oil level gauge. The oil level should be 4.29" (+ or - .08") from the top of the outer fork tube with the fork fully compressed, and the spring out. Move the piston rod up, and down with the puller to get air out of the oil.

I was going to replace the oil seals but inspecting the ones in them already they look brand new. That can wait till a later date. It's always a good idea when working on forks to limit the amount of dust, and dirt that may get into the fork assembly as much as possible. You want to also make sure the amount of fluid is equal in each fork or they wont work together as well.

A big thanks to Rider Forums user Fred for getting me the zx6r manual. It helped a ton, and the pics in it helped me make the special tools required for the job. Next step in the project is swaping the steering stems in the lower triple clamps, and making new steering stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did some more work today. Removed the ignition assembly from the upper clamp.

IMAG0633.jpg The head of the original bolts are riveted to the washer after they're put in from factory as a security measure so you need to drill them out. Easily done with a spring punch, and a few different sized drills. If you step up your drill size a little as you go the heads pop off no problem.

IMAG0637.jpg I was happy to see the 750 Ignition switch fits into the 1000 clamp perfectly. I'll just use regular bolts to put it back in. The fork lock function should still work no problem when its back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Slight change of plans. I tried to press the stem out of the 636 clamp today, and found that the only way to get it out is going to be heating the clamp then trying to press it out. So rather then risking damaging the clamp, and the stem. I found an '05 Z1k lower clamp w/ stem on ebay for $87 from Canada. Has scratches but, straight. A Screamin deal even with the $20 international shipping!! So I'll sell the 636 clamp on ebay, and for go the extra work with the stems, and making my own steering stops.
 
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