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Discussion Starter #1
Had a public holiday yesterday so I figured I'd get around to doing some stuff I've been putting off.

First off was the air-filter, i have been using the OEM foam filter the last two changes and figured that I'd change to a K n N one. Apart from the better breating, the more important aspect was cost. The OEM foam ones costs MYR120is each (USD30) and the K n N ones cost USD60.

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continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
part 1 air-filter continued

The airbox was only slightly oily but no oil pooling.. the catch tank was empty. The air filter was a bit oily though

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end of part 1 - air-filter
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Part two- clutch cable

My clutch operation had been getting a bit rough and I figured the cable was getting frayed some where as when I disconnected both end i did not have smooth action.

The local Kawa agent did not have one in stock but ebay had one.. from China no less. I originally figured on keeping it as a spare on the bike in case the cable snapped but since I had the tank off for the air-filter I decided to swap it out and keep the original as a spare.

The ebay one was USD11.29 with free shipping. Worth a shot.

The threaded part on the end near the clutch housing is a bit longer but the length from nipple to nipple is the same. No problem as it fitted well enough.
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The nipples on the original have little stainless outer covers so the nipple runs in these rather than the bare alloy of the lever. A nice touch missing on the chinese one.
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Close up of the chinese copy
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I also inspected the end of the sheath and it seems the inner lining is protruding a bit from the outer, I would have thought that it would be contained by the ferrule on the end but its seems that the original is also similar (although it dowsn't protrude).
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end part 2 clutch cable
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Part three -plugs

Some pics of the plugs

Old plug.. this has around 10,000kms (6000miles) and look good.
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New plug
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Here's a handy tip for getting to #2 and #3 plugs.. Apart from giving something to hold, I think it helps avoid cross-threading, hopefully the tube will slip when the threads start to cross.
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end of part 3 plugs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Part 4 - oil change

I also changed the oil but not the filter as I didn't have one handy. So I went with non-synthetic dyno oil as I plan to change the oil and filter soon, probably in 3000kms. The oil which came out was Bel-ray 20w50 semi-synth which had seen use for around 6000kms (3700miles).

Cost for this oil was MYR19/litre x 4 ..about USD19 total.


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end of part 4 - oil change
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Part 5 - rear brake disc

The final part was swapping out the rear brake disc.

My rear disc has been worn to the point where it has become wavy (concentric waves), probably because the piston was sticking and the brakes were half-on.

I have cleaned the calipers and that seems to work but I was still sourcing for a replacement for the damaged disc.

Well I found one online and decided at USD39 I could give it a shot. The original is around 5 times more and for rear brakes I was willing to give it a try. Don't think I will buy Chinese for front discs though!

Here's a screenshot of the ebay listing
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some pics
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It looks good (well is just a steel plate!) but one thing I noticed was the relief for ithe bolt heads was not as deep as on the original, meaning the bolt head would stick out more. Well I went ahead and installed it on the wheel and got the wheel back on the check for clearance. It was OK. I then removed the disc bolts one at a time, cleaned the threads and re-fastened using loc-tite medium.

All these jobs took the best part of a day, actually I did most of it before lunch and if not for the heavy lunch (which required a lie-down afterwards) I would have been done by around 2 pm.

Weather had been ****ty the last few weeks with heavy rains. Only thing left to do is lube the chain (I also adjusted the chain when I re-installed the rear wheel) and grease the swingarm pivots (grease gun in my other home).

Hope you enjoyed the pics and if you have any thoughts better or worse I'd be glad if you could share!

Anilv
 

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Kudos and congrats on getting that maintenance done. It's all easy stuff and amazes me that many folks don't do it themselves. Now there are times that it's easier or quicker to pay someone, and for folks not comfortable doing it - then having someone qualified do your work is a good thing, but for me it's nice to have that hands on relationship with what you are riding.

I was a bit surprised by the condition of the spark plugs (rusty) as well as the 20w oil (here it calls for 10w40) but these may be related to the conditions and temperatures in your neck of the woods.

As for rain, we've got the white powdery type of rain here with a foot or more of snow down :)
 

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1 Use a high temp disc brake grease to "seal" the air filter to airbox junction. An old "desert racers" trick. 2 buy a bottle of Dri Slide Bike Aid dry moly lubricant (with the needle applicator). It's the best cable lube on the planet. It's a dry film lubricant with a liquid carrier. 3 Use a high-quality anti-seize on the spark plug threads (I prefer copper based) and slather a goodly amount of dielectric grease on the spark plug insulator and inside the plug connector to make for easier disassembly and reduce voltage leak. 4As far as the rear brake disc, use a sheet of 600 to 1000 grit wet/ dry sandpaper and alcohol to lightly clean the braking surfaces followed by high quality lint-free disposable shop towels until there is nothing coming off onto the towels. Cleanliness is key to preventing "hot spots" and uneven wear. Replace the pads too as if the piston was sticking the pads were overheated and glazed. The Devil lives in the details.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Lpscruggs..

will relook the filter-aibox seal when i next have it off. I notice the KnN seal is much better than the foam on the old as I had to replace the old one preciously!

will look out for the cable lube

Spark plugs look bad because i have to park outside without cover at my workplace and weather has been pretty ****ty with rain the last two months.

Rear disc surface was fine and the fine machining marks were nice and even. Installed with new pads and works fine now. Earlier I had changed the caliper seals but I think that these seals need to be a periodic maintenance item.. especially the front. Seals are cheaper than discs.

Thanks!
Anilv
 

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Do you have to still oil the K&N filters like the OEM ones?
 

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The K&N Air Filter comes "Pre Oiled" from the factory, so it's good to go from the box. Install as is. I personally would buy and use the K&N air filter sealing grease or high-temperature disc brake grease to enhance the operation of the filter. The only time you need to oil the filter is when it has been cleaned using a K&N filter cleaning kit. Everything is contained in the instructions that come with the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update 16July 19,Chinese Clutch cable..

Well the cheap Chinese clutch cable broke.

Luckily less than a km away and it was mostly downhill back home. The cable lasted 8months and 9000kms.. not good.

So looking for an original Kawasaki one. The last time i checked the Kawa agent didn't have one in stock but I'll try asking for the Zephyr one and see if they have one as the layout of the bike is similar (but they have different part numbers).. Zephyrs are more common here in Malaysia.

Anilv
 

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If you can't get a clutch cable you could try using bicycle brake cable (1.5mm) in the clutch cable housing. It's a bit thicker than bicycle shifter cable (1.1mm) but still not up to normal cable ratings.

From the MotionPro website: (https://www.motionpro.com/custom/cable_definitions)

Inner Wire Diameter: The diameter of the inner wire, 1.2mm & 1.5mm commonly used for throttle and choke cables, and 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm used on clutch and brake cables.

I'm guessing the cheap Chinese cable was made from a thinner cable and just couldn't take the stress the larger diameter cables can.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Obo,

I would have expected it to break at either the lever or actuating arm but looks like it broke in the middle so my guess it broke at the bend and that would mean poor quality steel. Looking at the pictures I posted when I installed it (pics abve) the thickness is the same.

Anilv
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Placed an online order thru Impex Japan.. https://en.impex-jp.com/

I've ordered from them before and they're good. Price was USD15 (ttl USD29 incl shipping). CMSNL has it for EUR19 .

They usually take a month to arrive, meanwhile I'll try to find something to get the bike back on the road!

Anilv
 
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