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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

For those who like to do there own maintenance and upgrades, there are details on how to install Progressive Fork Springs on the ZR-7 at Manuel's web site, http://private.addcom.de/z/zr7/en/fork.htm . It has been translated from German but is quite understandable.

There are exploded view schematics parts diagrams (like the one shown of the forks at Manuel's web site, available on the web at http://www.buykawasaki.com/site/home click on 'view parts diagrams' on the left hand menu bar. The 2000 model ZR-7, ZR750F2 in both the US and CA forms is available, along with the ZR-7s.

Perhaps Jarel could add this to the zr-7.com maitenance pages?

Cheers,

Jenny
 

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Well, I received my Wilbers (Hyperpro) fork springs today.

I opened the caps and fished out the spacer, washer and spring. I was shocked to find out that the new springs were 135mm longer than the old ones!
Crap, I thought, they must have sent me the wrong springs. However, I measured the old springs with spacer+washer, and the new springs were about 5mm longer than the old stuff put together.

Original spring: 405mm, washer 1mm, spacer 130mm
Wilbers spring: 539/540mm

I read all the instructions in the web and prepared to call Wilbers tomorrow to ask if it was OK to put the new springs in. Then I went to the original german page describing the progressive spring installation.

Basically, with Wilbers/ Hyperpro springs, you DO NOT use the original spacer at all. This is said in the original German page.
So anyone with the same springs, forget the instruction in the English page about the spacer. You will not need it. Also, The progressive suspension ones that someone posted a picture of, look identical to Wilbers'. So don't be surprised.
Also, I chose not to disassemble the forks to change the oil. I had originally planned to remove wheel, take off the fork pipes and tip them upside-down to pour the oil out. However, there seems to be no sludge in the forks, so maybe I'll just siphon the old stuff out.

Grendel
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Fork drain screws

Hi Grendel,

The ZR-7 forks do have drain screws. Have another read of that German web page - the screws are located on the lower end of the outer fork tube and are normally covered by the front wheel axle. If you look at the schematic they are part number 44041.
I can only guess you need to remove the axle to gain access to them.

Cheers,

Jenny
 

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Drain screws..

yep... I figured it out also. Unfortunately I think that the "drain screws" also keep the whole rebound damping shebang together. I think taking the screws off would release the damping mechanism, and I would need the Kawasaki tool (or a block of wood and the plastic tube) to be able to put the stuff back together.
At least that's what it looks like in the Haynes Zephyr manual. BTW, Zephyr does have real drain screws. Maybe Kawasaki figured most people don't need to change fork oil until the fork seals need replacing? cheezy setup... Anybody tried tapping their own drainscrews....? hee hee.
I haven't put in the progressive springs yet. I feel a bit tempted to do the job properly and taking off the front wheel, at least I would then know how to do it.
My ZR7 is a -99 model with 17500km on the clock, but the fork oil seems to be real clean and transparent, I wonder if the previous owner has changed it?
Unfortunately I haven't been able to drive in four months, it's been too damn cold. I will however report when I'll have the new springs in!
 

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Re: Drain screws..

Unfortunately I think that the "drain screws" also keep the whole rebound damping shebang together. I think taking the screws off would release the damping mechanism
You are absolutely right. These are not drain screws, but damper assembly screws.

Malc;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, technically they're damper assembly bolts not drain screws, but in absence of the real thing they beat removing the forks.

You don't need the special tool to hold the damper rod assembly. Most mechanics I've spoken to just use an air powered impact wrench and let gravity/friction do the work. I have replaced fork seals etc on my Z550, Z650 and GPz900's and all I used on the damper assemblies was a battery powered drill fitted with an allen bit. :D

Jenny
 

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My friend and I changed the springs and oil by taking off the fork legs. Tipping them upside down, and letting the old oil drain out.
Put new Hyperpro springs in, refilled with the included #15 oil and reassembled. Easy as pie.
Quite an improvement in handling too. Worth it.
 

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Good luck with using the damper assembly bolts as drain screws, Jenny. If it works without hitch, whatever technique you use would be an excellent addition to the knowledge-base of how the ZR-7 can be worked on. I agree with you, it beats removing the forks - as long as it works without bringing its own hassle.

:)

When my Hyperpro springs were fitted, the dealer removed the forks like you did, Jimmy. Didn't charge much for the job either.
:D

Malc
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I sent an Email to Manuel regards the error that was picked up about fitting the spacers on his translated web page article.

He said he would amend his web page when he gets a chance.
 
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