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Here I go again......being truly amazing, I guess.

THAT isn't quite right either.
USUALLY oils marked "energy conserving" have a fairly high moly content, which would be fine for the engine but tends to damage wet clutches.
Well, now you got me. I've never seen an energy conserving oil that contained Moly.
 

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Well, now you got me. I've never seen an energy conserving oil that contained Moly.
I'm wanting to say "you haven't looked very hard" but it isn't always possible to TELL what additives are actually IN the oil without some serious digging.
It certainly isn't listed on the label in most cases.

I remember seeing somewhere that there is likely to be a tiny bit of molybdenum disulphate in most oils.....even some motorcycle oils.
And I believe that the "original" energy conserving oils depended on it heavily to make that designation.
That may not be true anymore but the caution against using EC oils in bikes still applies.

It certainly has nothing to do with the zinc content. That was an issue with catalytic converters.
 

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with 4T on the label. He says it's critical. Also, I personally wouldn't use synthetic until the bike had 6-7k on it.

I used Kawasaki 10-40w. It probably cost me $5 extra for the oil change.
You are correct sir! I asked the service manager at the dealership that I purchased my 2014 Ninja 1000 ABS from about what mileage could I switch over to full synthetic oil. He stated 7500 miles before switching.
 

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You are correct sir! I asked the service manager at the dealership that I purchased my 2014 Ninja 1000 ABS from about what mileage could I switch over to full synthetic oil. He stated 7500 miles before switching.
How ridiculous. The dealer is about the last place you should be getting your oil advice. It doesn't make a damn bit of difference during break in if you use synthetic or not. The man in advantage of synthetic is being able to double or triple your change intervals. After all, most synthetics are grp 3 now anyway, which means the only difference between dino and synthetic is more refinement with more factional distillation taking out the larger and smaller molecules to create a more uniform product.

Every major oil company has this exact same thing on their website:

Synthetic Oil - Pennzoil

"Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil before you start using synthetic oil. Again, there’s no manufacturer we’re aware of that makes this recommendation. Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette, some Cadillacs, Volkswagen, Hyundai and many other manufacturers’ cars come from the factory with synthetic oil."

Synthetic Oil | Frequently Asked Questions


"MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic like Mobil 1™ oil.
REALITY: You can start using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 synthetic is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, Rapide S, V12 Vantage Coupe and Roadster, V12 Zagato, Vanquish and Vanquish Volante
Bentley Continental Flying Spur, Continental GT, Continental GTC and Mulsanne
Chevrolet Corvette C6R.S, Z06, ZR1, Grand Sport Coupe and the Corvette C7 Stingray with the Z51 Performance Package
Chevrolet COPO Camaro and Cobalt, Columbia Model
McLaren MP4-12C and P1
Mercedes AMG:

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor."


What will it take to end the ignorance?:silly:
 

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How ridiculous.

What will it take to end the ignorance?:silly:
What you say may be absolutely true but it does no HARM to wait until the first full change interval to put in synthetic so I prefer to use my time and energy dispelling myths that really make a difference. :righton:
 

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How ridiculous. The dealer is about the last place you should be getting your oil advice. It doesn't make a damn bit of difference during break in if you use synthetic or not. The man in advantage of synthetic is being able to double or triple your change intervals. After all, most synthetics are grp 3 now anyway, which means the only difference between dino and synthetic is more refinement with more factional distillation taking out the larger and smaller molecules to create a more uniform product.

Every major oil company has this exact same thing on their website:

Synthetic Oil - Pennzoil

"Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil before you start using synthetic oil. Again, there’s no manufacturer we’re aware of that makes this recommendation. Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette, some Cadillacs, Volkswagen, Hyundai and many other manufacturers’ cars come from the factory with synthetic oil."

Synthetic Oil | Frequently Asked Questions


"MYTH: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic like Mobil 1™ oil.
REALITY: You can start using Mobil 1 synthetic oil in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 synthetic is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

Aston Martin DB9, DB9 Volante, Rapide S, V12 Vantage Coupe and Roadster, V12 Zagato, Vanquish and Vanquish Volante
Bentley Continental Flying Spur, Continental GT, Continental GTC and Mulsanne
Chevrolet Corvette C6R.S, Z06, ZR1, Grand Sport Coupe and the Corvette C7 Stingray with the Z51 Performance Package
Chevrolet COPO Camaro and Cobalt, Columbia Model
McLaren MP4-12C and P1
Mercedes AMG:

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor."


What will it take to end the ignorance?:silly:
Thanks all mighty one for all of the copied and pasted oil propaganda. You do what you like and I will do what I have been doing for the last 38 years of riding.
 

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When you ask an individual at a dealership, you get HIS opinion. Working for a dealer gets him not one step closer to facts, figures, and truths. So, he quits a Honda and Suzuki shop, goes to work for Yamaha, and now suddenly is a Yamaha expert?

Use some logic. If an oil was so slippery it prevented break in, we'd all run it. Your engine would never wear again. That would be awesome, and it would change the world. No moving equipment would wear..ever. No way, no how.

Back in 1986, your mechanic heard synthetic oils were "too slippery". That sounded reasonable, and he's been repeating it, ever since.

Oh, nevermind..I know better than to post in an oil thread, and did it anyway...Urinate in the gearbox if you want to....
 

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In the manuel it says 10w40. you can use 10W50 . It has more endurance in hotter temps. I run mine on Motul Tecnosynthese 10W50 as the picture previous. You can run it on 10W40 if you want to save some money. I have friends run on it Valvoline 10W40 with no problems. I guess it depends how much you want to beat the poor thing.
 
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