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Discussion Starter #1
Well I changed the oil on my ZR today, and things were going fine. Until I tried to screw back in the oil plug bolt. Apparently I overtightened it and now have a big problem. I can run the bolt all the way in and out of the threads, but it won't tighten. I ordered a new bolt, as the washer type gromet at the end of the bolt bent on me and is blocking the last thread. So I am hoping the new bolt fixes the problem. I have messed up threads before, but my bolts always break inside, this time the bolt can go both in and out, but can't tighten down. It will tighten to a certain point, but then it loosens up if I keep turning it. I am hoping that the washer that is bent is getting in the way and that is the perfect fix. If it is not, I have a question though:
If the threads inside the case are damaged and need to be fixed, how is that done, and who (ie dealership, a machinist etc) is the best at doing it? Are there any quick fixes that are effective and safe? How much money do you think this will cost me. I am already out almost $6 for the new bolt and almost $13 for the oil I will need to replace again. Let me know if you guys think this problem I have is just the bolt or if rethreading within the case will need to be done. Thanks.
 

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Ouch!

Chris,

You really need to look at the Bolt to see if it shows signs of being stripped - if the Bolt is stripped then you may get out of this one with a new Bolt and Washer/Grommet. Next, thread in the new Bolt by hand (try this without the filter and Oil Filter Housing) to make sure it is straight and doesn't bind/stick. If it sticks even after a few turns then it could be bad news. Make sure you get a torque wrench and tighten it down to 14ft/lbs(Kawasaki spec). Did it feel like it didn't pop back out? Did it feel like alot less pressure when you tightened this time compared to the last time?

If it pops/jumps back down a notch the mounting threads are probably stripped. Consult a good bike mechanic. They might be able to drill it out to fit a wider bolt. But, other considerations would be - will new bolt fit through existing oil filter housing and the other parts that slide on the bolt under the filter.

It is entirely possibly the bolt was never straight going in and never went past the first one or two threads - then you could get away with re-tapping the first two mounting threads.

Make sure you use a torque wrench when you try this and let us know what happens.

Berto
 

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Hold it!

Chris,

I need to correct myself don't tighten down that New Bolt. Only do it with the filter/spring/housing/O-ring, etc... all attached. Need to take into account the pressure/resistance from those parts that the bolt alone may not be able to take.

Berto
 

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On one of my old I bikes I did the same thing, but I used teflon tape on the bolt threads. You may have to drill it out and put in a heli-coil.
 

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you might get lucky at the auto parts store. for american cars they sell oversize oil plugs. these are designed for use in cars where regular oil changes have slightly enlarged the bolt hole and the stock bolt is a little loose. they're just slightly bigger than stock. check at a good auto parts store, they might hae one that matches up.

otherwise a helicoil is your best bet. have a mechanic do it, you only get one shot at it.

scott :)
 

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Wheelie for Safety
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That really sucks...

If I read your message correctly the oil drain Part# 92066 (not the oil filter) is stripped. The bolt is made out of steel and the oil pan is aluminum. Guess which one got stripped.

Once you verify the oil pan is stripped, you could get a new oil pan Part# 49034. It would be expensive but it is the the best solution.

There are companies that can get OEM Kawasaki parts for a discount. Try http://www.cycle-parts.com/

What tool were you using to torque the drain bolt?



Andy
 

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As Andy has said you will have stripped the thread in the aluminium sump pan, it is a simple job of removing the pan and either inserting a heli coil (now known as recoils in Aus) or drilling and tapping the pan for an oversize plug.

Before you do anything rash, laydown on your back and see how far the plug screws into the sump pan, it maybe that you have only stripped the first few threads of the plug hole, and then you only have to obtain a tap to clean up the thread, this can be done in situ.

Only a minimum amount of torque is required to seal the oil plug, particuarly if you use a new sealing washer, in the ideal world we would use a new sealing washer everytime, I often use old washers and use teflon tape judiciously applied for the sealing purpose I have never had a leakage yet. It is maybe that I am an old marine engineer and we didn't always have the luxury of having new components on hand, when we were out in the middle of the ocean.

Keep us posted on the repair.

And keep up the good work with the threads and postings riders

Graeme Gould at Byron Bay the most Easterly part of Australia
 

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Take the bolt to a specialist fastners store ( like Ramset ).

See if you can buy/rent a tap to fit. Run the tap ( like a hard edged tapered bolt ) down the thread a few times and it should cut the correct thread back in the sump plug hole. Since the bolt hole is straight through it should be a simple job. Do it slowly clockwise/anticlockwise to pull down any small alloy particles back out of the hole.

:)

doh ! I should read the other posts first :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the information guys. It is the oil plug only and not the oil filter bolt. I am really hoping that a new plug bolt is all I need, but I really think that I stripped the actual threads in the oil pan. It is going to take at least a week from 2/28 for me to even get the replacement plug. Which unfortunantly puts me out of a bike for a week :mecry:. If it is not just the bolt there is a Honda shop 3 miles from my house that I will bring my bike to so they can rethread the oil pan for me. I was going to try to ride my ZR to the local Kawasaki shop, but that is about 30 miles away, and the way it is leaking oil I really don't think it will make it, plus the fact that my rear tire has to roll through all the oil I am leaking. If I had a p/u truck it would be easier, but I am trying to avoid calling a friend for a favor (again). Anyway, it really sucks to have to wait so long for a new plug, it seems to me that the shops should keep a few of those in stock anyway, just incase they ever need a new plug while doing oil changes for customers, but customer service in dealerships out here does not seem too important.
 

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Just running a tap of the same size will most likely not help if the threads are stripped. Boring the hole out and using a bigger tap to cut new threads and finding a bigger bolt may not work either.

There is a flat surface the drain bolt washer sits on that is not to wide in diameter. So there isn't much room for a bigger bolt and washer.

Using a heli-coil is a good solution. You might want to verify that either your local shop or the Kawasaki shop has a heli-coil insert for the drain plug. If they don't, have them oder one ASAP.

Again the other alternative is to replace the oil pan. Have you checked to see what they cost?

Andy
 

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I Bad

Chris,

Sorry dude, I read (but went into oblivion) regarding this being the "Oil Drain Bolt". Please disregard everything I said, except the torque wrench part.

Berto (as Bugs would say, this Berto, what a maroon!)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I got the new bolt today, and the bolt was not the problem. Luckily one of my Dad's friends is a good mechanic and helped me pull the headers/pipe and oil pan off. He said the pan itself is poorly designed. There are only 3 or 4 threads that actually go all the way around for the oil bolt to grip, so it is easy for someone with extremely limited mechanical skills to strip. Anyway, he is going to rethread it for me somehow, not a heli coil, but someother way. I have nothing to loose so why not. He is pretty sure it should work anyway. I had striped it pretty good though, there was a bit of metal shavings in the bottom of the pan, so now I have to go buy new oil and filter to make sure there is no metal that is going to get into my motor. Anyway, we should have my bike up by this weekend luckily. Well atleast I have learned my lesson now. Don't overtighten bolts. I thought I was tourquing the bolt to 22 lbs, but I didn't use the torque wrench right, so now I will learn. Anyway at bikebandit.com the oil pan was about $115 and the gasket was about $15, but hopefully I won't need a new pan.
 

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Hi Chris,

Again I'm sorry to hear about the problems you had. I'm surprised how inexpensive the new oil pan costs.

I personally do not use a torque wrench. Just a short end wrench and I don't make it very tight.

Andy
 

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Well, that is some good insight; particularly regarding the number of threads in the pan. That is a poor design. I recommend that after ammends are made, that a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the new drain plug be applied prior to re-fitting. I do not feel a torque wrench is necessary; just give it a good wrist tight "short end of the wrench" snug-down. The teflon tape and snug bolt should secure any leak induced by gravity.

Contrary to popular belief, most fasteners or bolts do not need to be as tight as possible -so watch those gorilla fingers! After re-tapping a few threads, in impossible locations, I learned my lesson early. Good luck!!
 

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a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the new drain plug be applied prior to re-fitting.
DANNO: Is that safe..? Some Teflon tape in the plug..? With the high heat can not disolve inside the engine...?

I do not have a torque wrench..I just tight until it feels snug...

The Teflon will be also safe in the Oil Filter bolt...?
 

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I agree Robert. The teflon tape is not required unless there is a leak. I think that is what Danno was refering to.

Andy
 

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oil plug

If you use Teflon tape, be sure to get the yellow tape. The white tape is for plumbing, not petroleum products.
 

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Good point on heat issue. I would not think that the teflon would dissolve. However, with the proximity of the exhaust pipe and given the heat that can generate along with the heat dissapating from the engine, I could certainly not discount it either. I do this for my vehicles regularly and have never had a problem with the tape dissolving. Just 2-3 wraps on the threads, with no overlay on the bottom of the bolt does the trick to stop most leaks I've encountered.

Now if it is re-tapped, go without the tape to see if it holds (ensuring that you've a good washer on the end). If it holds, you're good to go. I've you've got a few drops on the garage floor, then try the teflon tape. I only wrap the threads that will seat directly with the threads on the pan, when the bolt is snugged. Meaning that if there are exposed bolt threads protuding into the crankcase, I'd leave these bare.

Like Jajamase said, get the tape suitible for use with petroleum substances. It will indicate that on the container. You can pick it up at Kragen or Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I have everything back together now, and no oil is leaking. I do need to work on getting the headers on better though, there is a leak at the top of them where we didn't get them connected right. Actually I didn't do it, my dad and his friend finished it while I was at work, lucky me. I'm just glad to have it running again :D
 

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I got some teflon tape you can use for that header problem:laugh: :laugh:

I'm glad to hear your not leaking anymore; good job!!
 
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