It'll probably be fine, just watch for leaks around the filter.
Oil Change How To: Full Synthetic Switch for me.
121 - 140 of 178 Posts
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32 Posts
I got a 2012 Ninja 650R that had been well cared for by a shop for the woman who owned it. It has 12K mi. on it. I am also afraid that as Joe Walsh says, "I am an analog man in a digital world." I have never been convinced on Synth oils. I have always had
very good luck/service with Castrol oils back in the day when they were the same as auto oils. I went thru a time of using Maxim, Repesol and spectro. All pretty good oils in my experience. I di find a supply of Castrol SG "Dino" juice or mineral oil or I always heard of it referred to as paraphin based oils. Thanks for adding about the friction modifiers in the modern day auto oils. I am switching the bike over to maintenance the way that I have done it for as long as I have ridden. Cheap insurance is right. I change my oil at
1000 mi. increments. It is truly cheap insurance. The fellow rider that I learned it from had an old Yamaha 750 that when I last saw him was at 80K mi. A question that I have is the really great tutorial that I saw the same as for the plastics on a 2012 650R? I need to change the oil. Also, out here in the low desert of SoCal the stock battery was 2 years old and with heat and vibration I just changed it. I don't know about other brands but the power source battery that I bought that is supposed to be for the 650R had terminals that were too wide for the bike's connectors. I was able with my dremel tool to slice a 1/16 of an inch off of each side of the terminal and it fit perfectly. Thanks for everything gang. Love the info and site.
very good luck/service with Castrol oils back in the day when they were the same as auto oils. I went thru a time of using Maxim, Repesol and spectro. All pretty good oils in my experience. I di find a supply of Castrol SG "Dino" juice or mineral oil or I always heard of it referred to as paraphin based oils. Thanks for adding about the friction modifiers in the modern day auto oils. I am switching the bike over to maintenance the way that I have done it for as long as I have ridden. Cheap insurance is right. I change my oil at
1000 mi. increments. It is truly cheap insurance. The fellow rider that I learned it from had an old Yamaha 750 that when I last saw him was at 80K mi. A question that I have is the really great tutorial that I saw the same as for the plastics on a 2012 650R? I need to change the oil. Also, out here in the low desert of SoCal the stock battery was 2 years old and with heat and vibration I just changed it. I don't know about other brands but the power source battery that I bought that is supposed to be for the 650R had terminals that were too wide for the bike's connectors. I was able with my dremel tool to slice a 1/16 of an inch off of each side of the terminal and it fit perfectly. Thanks for everything gang. Love the info and site.
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32 Posts
Bump????
Are you bumping for this? Run that by us again... :dunno:
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3 Posts
When changing oil I only put full sintethic oil Motul 10W40 factory line
1.7 liters when filter is not removed
1.9 liters when filter is removed
2.4 liters when completely dry
1.7 liters when filter is not removed
1.9 liters when filter is removed
2.4 liters when completely dry
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3 Posts
Full sinthetic oils are generally for racing bikes, I personally only put full sinthetic oil in my bike even though I don't race it and the reason I only put full s oil is because its made to withstand high revs and high temperatures there for reduces friction. Also creates a thin layer over metal to prevent metal on metal on cold start ups
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2,260 Posts
The other day, when I went for a ride I checked my oil through the window and it was fine. Last night I checked it again, still fine. However, I noticed humidity in the check window. I leaned the bike far enough to use the oil to (clean) make sure the moisture wasnt on the inside, then tried wiping the outside of the window. I'm guessing the glass is two layers and the moisture is between.
Info:
It has been as cold as 30* and as high as 70* within the last two weeks. Also, I have never ridden in the rain and my bike has less than "15" miles in it so far.
Is this normal sometimes? Will/should it go away? Have any of you experienced this?
Please help as I am concerned.
Info:
It has been as cold as 30* and as high as 70* within the last two weeks. Also, I have never ridden in the rain and my bike has less than "15" miles in it so far.
Is this normal sometimes? Will/should it go away? Have any of you experienced this?
Please help as I am concerned.
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282 Posts
I had the dealer change the oil for me (service is free)but 650 filters was out so they use the 250 one. No problems after that I used repsol full 10w-40 but after 1800kms i notice its gettin hotter and my mileage seems to be gettin worst a bit. Maybe i'm just thinking too much -__- time for another change?
I went to the local motorcycle shop here and got some oil to change out the oil in my 2013 650. The guy at the parts desk gave me the 4stroke 10W40 oil instead of the 2stroke. Will this be a big issue or should I go back and exchange it for the 2stroke 10W40 instead?
2strokes are not common in normal vehicles. Minibikes, dirtbikes, lawnmowers, some small displacement RRs (like the aprilia RS125), gokarts, etc. The 650 is a 2-cylinder, not a 2-stroke.Hmmmm I always thought the 650's had a two stroke engine ^^. Well, thanks for clearing that mess up for me
Oil weight charts by temperature don't really care what kind of vehicle they're put in. I wouldn't go with a 5w40 anywhere -- that's too large a swing for it to hold up well under abuse. Figure your temperature range and choose the narrowest grade you can that fits that range. If you don't want to buy any more, put in the 15W40. You want the 5w for winter, not summer.
SAE chart: http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...96b43f/80/21/ed/db/large/0996b43f8021eddb.gif
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