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Discussion Starter #1
Experienced this for the first time just last week (after 3,000 km). Don't know why it hasn't happened before this.

Does it go away? Is there a cheap fix?
 

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The Commander
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Scott - Do a search on the word "Hesitation" and you'll find a bunch of threads that discuss this subject. The most common fix is to turn out the pilot screws a little more. It doesn't make sense that your bike would develop that problem over time, so I'd guess you're experiencing something else. You might have dirty carbs, debris in the fuel line, slack in your throttle cable, or a slipping clutch.
 

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Scott,

Is it just hesitating or is it bogging?

If it's hesitation then it is probably one of the things Jarel mentioned. Try running a can of Berryman's in your next tank and adjusting your cables.

If it is bogging then you're probably running too rich, the engine gets more gas then it can handle and takes a moment to catch up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm ... thanks guys. I haven't ridden since the post, so I'll wait and see if it happens again. It wasn't a real bog, just a momentary hesitation/lack of power.

Sorry, but what's Berryman's?
 

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Wheelie for Safety
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Hi Scott,

The off-idle hesitation when taking off from a stop sign problem...

I noticed the problem on day one. When you take off from a stop, all you need is enough gas and clutch slipping to keep the engine from stalling. However the stock idle mixture setting is so lean that sometimes the engine hesitates.

If you don't adjust the idle mixture, the hesitation can be overcome by applying more throttle and slipping the clutch.

I'm thinking some people don't notice the lean idle mixture setting right away, but when they become more in-tune with their bike the problem becomes apparent.

It is really easy to adjust the idle mixture screw on non-usa carbs because there is no plug covering them up. All you need to do is locate the screws on the bottom of the carb, screw them in all the way in (do not over-tighten), and screw out 2.5 turns. Use a small screw driver and mark the shaft with a felt pen.

Andy
 

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I forgot, they may not have Berryman's in Oz. It is a carb cleaner. It comes in two forms a spray which you use when taking the carb apart to clean it. There is also a liquid which can be used the same or put in the tank and it will clean out light crud. It also does a fairly good job of getting water out of the system. I'm sure you have something like is there.

I've never experienced the off idle hesitation on my bike, but it sure lets me know when I've left the choke on to long. One twist of the trottle and it acts like is just ran out of gas, then it coughs a couple of times and goes. I go opps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Andy, it's quite possible that the bikes are tuned differently here (no idea, really, but we don't have CA requirements to contend with).

I will check the idle mixture setting on the weekend, as you suggest.

In the meantime, I've stuck a dinky little clock between my dials, using velcro. I'll post a photo to show you. The clock was free (a result of my participating in a conference in NY last June).

:)
 

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I finally got around to drilling out the anti-tamper plugs and adjusting the mixture screws on my '01 7S this weekend. I have had the hesitation problem since June when I bought the bike but had learned to live with it. I turned the screws out 2 turns and it did make a marked difference. I might try 2 1/2 turns and see how it runs next. The weird thing is that from the factory carbs 1 & 2 were at 1 1/2 turns out and carbs 3 & 4 were set to 0 turns out. I can't quite figure that one out...
 

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Wheelie for Safety
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Wow bluwngoliv,

Mine were all set to 1.75 turns. I bet there is great improvement on your bike now...

Andy
 

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i did this a few weeks back on my bike. the outside jets were set to about 1.5 and the inside jets were about 1.75. i moved them all to 2, then 2.25 and then 2.5. i finally settled on 2.25 all around.

it's a bit smoother but i don't think i got the same great result as most folks did :( i'm also going to do a k&n air cleaner soon, maybe that will help a bit more. i'm with martin, lower gears and higer revs throught he corners and there's no problem.

scott :)
 

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Best regards Team:

I finally got around to drilling out the anti-tamper plugs
bluwngoliv: How you drill the the plugs? Did you removed the carbs..?


Anyway to accomplish this without removing the carbs...? I read in another post about using a Dremel tool...Any alternatives to this?
 

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i did mine with the dremel method as andy suggested and it worked out fine as long as you don't mind some nicks in the carb bodies in unimportant places. i recommend it if you don't want to remove the carbs.

scott :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, based on riding this morning (lovely sunny start to the day), I may have been imagining the problem. I'll check the idle screws anyway.
 

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My two cheap fixes for the hesitation were back the air screws out and adding two shims to each needle. All was done for under a dollar and I didn't have to take the carbs off the bike. I noticed the flat spot when I bought the bike and backed the screws out and it was fine for me. When I put on the D&D slip-on it came right back, so I added the shims and off I went. This was back in Apr 01 and I haven't done anything since and it still runs nice and smooth.
 

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bluwngoliv said:
I finally got around to drilling out the anti-tamper plugs and adjusting the mixture screws on my '01 7S this weekend. I have had the hesitation problem since June when I bought the bike but had learned to live with it. I turned the screws out 2 turns and it did make a marked difference. I might try 2 1/2 turns and see how it runs next. The weird thing is that from the factory carbs 1 & 2 were at 1 1/2 turns out and carbs 3 & 4 were set to 0 turns out. I can't quite figure that one out...
Mine were exactly the same! Weird.

I've set mine to 3 turns out, mainly to help starting in really cold weather.

Andrew
 

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Scott,

Yes, I removed the tank and used a long screw driver. I then removed the covers and lifted out the innards. Put the shims in, dropped it back in and screwed it back down. I fought a little getting the siide/needles to drop in straight on the middle two carbs but nothing major. Start to finish, less than an hour.

The covers screws (philips) can stick a little when you first remove them so be careful not to strip them. I actually had taken one screw to the hardware store the day before and bought some allen screws to replace the philips screws. Removes the worry of stripping them if I mess with the carbs again.

Ethan
 

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Itztli said:
Best regards Team:



bluwngoliv: How you drill the the plugs? Did you removed the carbs..?


Anyway to accomplish this without removing the carbs...? I read in another post about using a Dremel tool...Any alternatives to this?
Itztli,

I removed the whole carb bank per Jarel's Holeshot Jet Kit instructions on ZR-7.com. It wasn't a big deal because I already had it torn down for my 12k valve adjustment. I just drilled a 1/8" hole in each plug and then used a small sheet metal screw to spin them out with a screwdriver - it's real easy.

The only hard part is refitting the rubber carb/airbox boots when you reinstall. It's just takes some patience. Also, be sure to disconnect both throttle cables at the throttle grip housing before attempting to disconnect and reconnect at the carbs.

I thought about doing the dremel tool/mirror method instead but my eyes just aren't that good! There's not much room to work in down there and it's nice to be able to see what you're doing.

bluwngoliv
 

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If you want to take the anti-taper plugs out the REALLY ugly way :( :without removing the carbs, here's an alternative:

Take a small drill bit (i.e. 1/16 or 1/8") and drill through the side of the housing that the plug is pressed into right at the edge of it. You can then take the tip of a small screwdriver and pry the plugs out from the inside.

I bought my bike used after the first service had been done and that's what the mechanic at the Kawasaki shop did. It looks like heck, but I guess it was faster than taking the carbs off or doing the dremel trick.

If I ever decide to take the carbs off to put in a jet kit, I'm sure that cleaning up the holes will be one of the side jobs I do with it :rolleyes:
 
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