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Mr. Clean
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Discussion Starter #1
It shouldn't be this hard...deciding on a slip-on! Wife says this is a ONE time deal, so I had better get it right the FIRST time! Geez, you would think I had 8-10 different screens on the bike!! LOL!:laugh:
 

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West Coast Moderator
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Well, since you asked.....I'm going to go with a Kerker. It goes with the "retro" theme I'm taking with my bike (Kawasaki/Kerker), they're about the cheapest (although the difference isn't much) and I've ran Super Trapps for years (the 2 are under one roof now) and either way, they both make good exhaust, whether Super Trapp makes it or Kerker.
 

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The Commander
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5,020 Posts
Well Edward, if you can only get ONE, then go with the one you like the look of the best. There's really not much difference operationally between all of the top brands, so it's just down to the look you prefer. Everyone thinks the one they bought is the best. Unfortunately for everyone who didn't buy a Muzzy, they're wrong! :~ Seriously, just pick the one that jumps out at you visually (assuming price is no object ;) ) and matches the "theme" you're going for with the bike.
 

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There was a comparison of full-exhaust systems done in "Sport Rider" about 2 years ago. I was just looking at the article last night. From memory the ones that had the biggest bumps in performance were Hindle, Micron, 2-Brothers. I think Kerker was OK, on about the same level as Yosh - they did not include D&D however. Vance and Hines was one of the worst. Now this comparison was for full High end systems, and did inolve re-jetting. So this is pretty un-scientific to try to compare to slip ons, but I am looking at one of the above. However Hindle looks like they don't make a pipe for our bikes. I'm checking into Micron.

The other thing I wanted to mention - one of the top dyno tuner guys in this area (Twin Cities) has done work on a couple of my bikes, and the 2 pipes I remember him mentioning as the best were Hindle (very best) and Micron. As I recall he did not think much of Vance & Hines.

The number for Micron is 888/963-1212 - I plan on calling later today.

Good luck!

- Woody
 

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Parts # from 411 for ZR 7

Jardine = Al. Race Baffle 18-3105-143-02-PO $229.13
Al. Street Baffle 18-3105-142-02-PO $243.73

Micron = Pol. Al. Oval Race Slip on PKC44/0-MC $277.34

Yosh RS-3= Round Al. Race baffle = ZR702S0X $245 (ti + $47)ZR702S0-TI-YRD
Zyclone ZR700S0CX $229 (ti + $59) ZR700S0C-TI-YRD

Two Bros. C4 Round Al. 005-550417-TBR $247.76
C4 Carbon 005-550418-TBR $353.96

These are the ones I was checking into, the muzzy is also listed, but $$$$$. I would check Parts411.com for best/most current pricing (got this info last month) and double check stock #'s. I'm not sure about service or cost of shipping. Maybe someone else has dealt with them before and has a few words for us. I was just nerding out and comparison shopping so I could throw some pricing at my local shop to see where they could land when the time comes.
 

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The Deer Slayer
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7,382 Posts
Two Brothers-Two Brothers- sis -boom -baa, bugs bunny- bugs bunny Rha rha rha. Wait a minute, I'm haveing De-ja-vu .....
 

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Mr. Clean
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Discussion Starter #9
I talked to the guys at my local Kawasaki shop and they all said go with the D&D...and they recommended NOT rejetting?! They would be glad to do it, but it really didn't need it. I'll install the pipe and go from there!
 

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Edward,

Someone else already pointed you to www.parts411.com, a site I discovered last night. The 2 that I am down to are the D&D "Black Satin", and the 2 Bros. If I was going strictly for performance, I'd buy the 2 Brothers. But I keep thinking about the D&D - that "black satin" is a removable sleeve, so if I ever sell the bike, and the new owner does not like the black sleeve, they can just remove it.

I'm going to make some more calls to D&D, and to 2 Brothers, and then make up my mind. I don't have any real performance info on D&D, but in general I've heard good things about D&D.

Let us know what you get, and how you like it.

- Woody
 

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REJETTING

I forgot to mention - when I talked to D&D earlier, they said the same thing, that is, NOT to rejet unless there were idle/performance issues. This kind of surprised me. But there was an article in the last Motorcyclist issue (November?) about a new Bandit 1200 they tweaked. In the first couple paragraphs, they say that with JUST a slip add added, and no rejetting or other carb. tweaking, they got a 6 hp increase. So anyway, when I get mine, I hoping that I will NOT have to rejet, unless I go to a high-flow filter such as K&N.

- Woody
 

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The Commander
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Edward ZR7 said:
I talked to the guys at my local Kawasaki shop and they all said go with the D&D...and they recommended NOT rejetting?! They would be glad to do it, but it really didn't need it. I'll install the pipe and go from there!
Edward - I'd be VERY leery of the advice NOT to rejet. We've got a huge chorus here advocating rejetting even if you DON'T add a slip-on. The ZR-7 is jetted VERY lean from the factory due to EPA regulations, and increasing the airflow with a race pipe and/or K&N filter will just make the condition worse. It's certainly not mandatory, but everyone who has rejetted has reported the bike running smoother and with increased power! I'd ask those guys at the dealer WHY they don't recommend rejetting, given how lean the factory settings are.
 

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Jarel,

That was my first thoughts too - that is to rejet. But I think about the article in Motorcyclist, and they even have dyno charts to show the improvement in hp/torque curves afer just adding a slip-on, and no rejetting. Of course it was even better after rejetting. But I don't know. True, the ZR7 is not the Bandit 1200, but I do truely beleive that ALL bikes are set lean from the factory - just about every bike I've researched and gotten to know over the last few years tend to be reported set too lean from the factory. But the thing that really drives me nuts, is that NO ONE seems to dyno their ZR7 before or after they do their tweaks. So how the heck do they know if they are really improving anything? I just don't trust seat of the pants that much - its to easy to fool yourself. You just spent $300 on a new slip on that looks cool, and sounds cool - and you WANT to beleive it bumps performance, so of course that's what seat of the pants tells you. (I just had to get that off my chest.)

Anyway, from my research, I talked to both D&D, and Two Brothers. They both were really helpful. The D&D is a steel construction, so it is going to be 2 to 3 pounds heavier than the Two Brothers, that use an aluminum sleeve. The D&D gives about 90 - 100 db, whcih to me seems plenty loud, maybe too loud. Two Brothers did not quote DB levels. Two brothers pipe can be re-packed - but they use a rivet construction, so the rivets have to be removed, and then re-riveted after the can is re-packed. Two Brothers suggests re-packing about every 10,000 miles. I'm not sure if D&D uses rivets or screws - I'll have to call again about this. But I can say, I've had problems with screws working their way out on my V&H pipe, so I would tend to think rivet construction may be better.

Looks wise, I like the D&D better, and I like the versatility of being able to remove the black sleeve if I change my mind, and just run the shinny steel can. But I have no performance numbers for the D&D. But the guys at Two Brothers, just really seem to have their **** together. So I can't make up my mind. I think what I will do is do a mock-up in black over the stock exhaust, and if I really love the look of balck, I'll probably get the D&D, otherwise I'll get the Two Brothers.

- Woody
 

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Mr. Clean
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Discussion Starter #14
Rejetting...

The guy at my shop told me he would rejet for me no problem, but he said it isn't necessary. I told him that my bike "pops" from time to time. He asked it it was popping through the carbs, or out the exhaust. It's from the exhaust. He said it's the pollution control device doing it's job and it's normal. I'm going to install the pipe and run it and see what happens! If I notice any problems...simple, I'll rejet!! He also recommended the D&D as a slip-on that is a good value for the $...we shall see!
 

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sound levels?

how about sound levels. I like my neighbors and they like me. I would like a pipe that is louder than stock but not one that is going to get my neighbors upset at 7 AM on a sunday.
 

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Noise...

The more people I talk to - the D&D's are notoriously loud (90 - 100 db). I am leaning i the direction of Kerker right now. Their setup is about 30 to 60$ less then other systems out there.

- Woody
 

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I installed a Kerker last week and am very pleased with it. Well, it's sort of a Kerker, I think. The name on it says Rombo Racing Exhaust. Rombo you ask? So did I.

Actually, member Rocketdoug bought it in Europe and then changed his mind, so he never used it. He sold it to me on the ZR-7 classifieds. Thanks Rocket! From all outward appearances, it looks like the Kerker can. Same bands, endcaps, etc., but it was apparently badged under the Rombo name for sale in Europe.

That being said, I am very pleased with it. Nice low mellow tone at idle. Not loud at all for a straight-thru pipe, but certainly louder than stock. I still don't think you could even hear my bike next to a Harley with straight pipes, so it's nothing like that sort of noise. Of course it's loud at high RPM, but that's what gets the adrenaline flowing.

For the money, I say Kerker is the way to go. They cost about half of what others do. Maybe not as pretty, high-tech, or light as others on the market, but they get the job done, and hey, that's why we bought ZR-7's. :D

kelly
 

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West Coast Moderator
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Thanks man.... I have my mind set on the Kerker and you just reinforced my thinking (what there is of it, a head-ache is considered progress). The sound you described is just what I'm looking for.....so when I do get one and it wakes the neighbors, it will be happy noise that they hear, not just some cheap-*** Mickey Mouse clock with bells......:D
 
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