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Hi,

I would like to know how much engine oil need to fill in engine (1.9 L or more)? Also what should be the engine oil level (In middle or Above Middle or Near to High)?

As per service advisor engine oil they recommend it 1.9L and upto Middle level in engine oil gauge.

Is it correct or required to fill upto high level mark in engine oil gauge?
 

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If you change the oil while it is on the side stand, 1.9 L is probably enough with an oil filter change. If you change the oil while the bike is on stands (vertical), then it will take about 2.5 L.

After an oil change, start the engine for a minute or so so that oil is pumped into the filter. The oil level will drop so you will need to add more.

There should be two marks on the right side of the oil inspection window that shows the high and low levels. I can't see them with my engine cover on, but I recall the lines divided the window in thirds (high is 1/3 from top, low is 1/3 from bottom). I think it is normal to have the oil level in the middle, though some like to have the oil level closer to high (I guess to account for slow oil leaks or to make sure there is enough oil when carving the canyons).
 

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1.9 L unless your running a larger than normal filter. Stock filter 1.9 is ample for. There should also be a decal stating this under the fairing on the oil glass side.
 

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It is supposed to be dead nuts between the low and high line. I started with two quarts but ended up putting in about 2.4 before it was exactly between the lines. In the maintenance forum there is a thread on service manuals, find the one for your bike and download it, it will help you in so many ways...but you will still have questions occasionally.

Edit: I meant when the bike is straight up and down (level ground) and not on side stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When my bike is standing (not on side stand) showing engine oil level in engine oil inspecation window exactly in middle. Not above and not below. Service advisor has added 1.9 L engine oil in bike service.

will it harm to engine when bike running if engine oil shows in middle level?
 

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When my bike is standing (not on side stand) showing engine oil level in engine oil inspecation window exactly in middle. Not above and not below. Service advisor has added 1.9 L engine oil in bike service.

will it harm to engine when bike running if engine oil shows in middle level?
Middle is good with engine NOT running (stop engine after idling for a few minutes) and bike is level on rear stand. With engine running (idling) and bike is level on rear stand, my oil level goes way way way past the upper limit. In fact, oil fills the entire oil check window.

EDIT: Wait a sec, is it normal with engine running (idling) that the oil fills the entire oil check (sight glass) window? The oil pump is supposed to be circulating oil, so we should expect the oil level to drop -- correct?
 

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Mine doesn't have a rear stand, but if it's level on both tires then I can't see how it would be level on the rear stand too, it would make sense to me that if you put it on the rear stand that the back would be higher.

I usually put mine on front and rear lift stands which levels the bike out, oil should be in the middle of the window. For a quick check with no stands I grab the bars and stand the bike up straight, the oil should be in the middle of the window.

When using the OEM filter, if I put in 2.0 quarts it will be close to the lower line, so I add-add-add until I am at 2.4 after letting it idle. Some people argue they use less, some little more...but as long as it's between the two lines, after idle, on level ground, off the stand (unless using front and rear stands together), without the engine running, then it's right. I'm close to ready for another oil change and mine is still right between the lines.

If you look up the thread in the maintenance section from last summer on this exact same topic, half of us argued that we used 1.9 and the other half argued that we used 2.4 (little more/less) to get the oil in the middle of the two lines, it took three plus pages to determine that it didnt matter which of the two amounts you fell towards, as long as it was between the two lines on the window.
 

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Lean It has two posts...one saying that it has to be exactly in the middle, and another saying that as long as it is within range it is fine:

It is supposed to be dead nuts between the low and high line. I started with two quarts but ended up putting in about 2.4 before it was exactly between the lines.
When using the OEM filter, if I put in 2.0 quarts it will be close to the lower line, so I add-add-add until I am at 2.4 after letting it idle. Some people argue they use less, some little more...but as long as it's between the two lines, after idle, on level ground, off the stand (unless using front and rear stands together), without the engine running, then it's right. I'm close to ready for another oil change and mine is still right between the lines.
What I was trying to say earlier is that as long as it is within the two lines (minimum and maximum), the oil level is fine. Some prefer being on the high-side, but I prefer being in the middle.

Mine doesn't have a rear stand, but if it's level on both tires then I can't see how it would be level on the rear stand too, it would make sense to me that if you put it on the rear stand that the back would be higher.

I usually put mine on front and rear lift stands which levels the bike out, oil should be in the middle of the window. For a quick check with no stands I grab the bars and stand the bike up straight, the oil should be in the middle of the window.
A rear stand won't lift the bike a foot or more. It is only a couple of inches. The oil level will still be visible, though it may not be parallel to the ground. I changed my oil with both front and rear stands, but I am fine with just checking on a rear stand. It's much harder for me to check the oil level while trying to balance the bike upright (with my engine covers, the oil inspection window is no longer visible when standing beside the bike).

If you look up the thread in the maintenance section from last summer on this exact same topic, half of us argued that we used 1.9 and the other half argued that we used 2.4 (little more/less) to get the oil in the middle of the two lines, it took three plus pages to determine that it didnt matter which of the two amounts you fell towards, as long as it was between the two lines on the window.
It depends on the size of the oil filter used as well as whether the oil is changed on the side stand or is even on stands. No one is going to have the same amount of oil used. Perhaps even certain oil manufacturers might put a little less or a little more oil in their containers. I think I probably put in 2.6 L and my oil level is right in the middle. Apparently I was able to get out more used oil from my bike than others normally do.

Middle is good with engine NOT running (stop engine after idling for a few minutes) and bike is level on rear stand. With engine running (idling) and bike is level on rear stand, my oil level goes way way way past the upper limit. In fact, oil fills the entire oil check window.

EDIT: Wait a sec, is it normal with engine running (idling) that the oil fills the entire oil check (sight glass) window? The oil pump is supposed to be circulating oil, so we should expect the oil level to drop -- correct?
Oil level goes up when an engine is warm. It's like checking the oil level in a car...the dipstick will read higher in a warm engine than when the engine is cold.
 

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Oil level goes up when an engine is warm. It's like checking the oil level in a car...the dipstick will read higher in a warm engine than when the engine is cold.
Hi SCT, thanks for the feedback! I always check the oil level before starting the bike, but no longer check after starting the bike. It's a good thing Dmax brought it up. Things we take for granted (sigh). Again, thanks! :)
 

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LOL. interesting to me that what I regard as fairly straightforward (if'n y'read MOM) may sometimes morph into a pages-long discussion. I have followed MOM's instructons for the four bikes I've owned, and NEVER had a problem with oil in 17 years and mor'n 200k miles.


carry on.
 

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Middle is good with engine NOT running (stop engine after idling for a few minutes) and bike is level on rear stand. With engine running (idling) and bike is level on rear stand, my oil level goes way way way past the upper limit. In fact, oil fills the entire oil check window.

EDIT: Wait a sec, is it normal with engine running (idling) that the oil fills the entire oil check (sight glass) window? The oil pump is supposed to be circulating oil, so we should expect the oil level to drop -- correct?
Hi SCT, thanks for the feedback! I always check the oil level before starting the bike, but no longer check after starting the bike. It's a good thing Dmax brought it up. Things we take for granted (sigh). Again, thanks! :)
I last posted a couple of minutes before I went to work. I guess now is the time to explain further.

Viscosity is a measurement of resistance to flow. Thus, 5W-40 oil will behave as a SAE 5 oil in the cold and SAE 40 oil in heat. Since viscosity is a measure of resistance to flow, the higher a viscosity, the more resistant it is to flowing. Thus a 5W-40 oil will flow more freely in the cold and then become thicker when warmed. This is what we want: an oil that will flow more freely when the engine is cold so that it is easier to start and the oil is able to be pumped throughout it, as well as something that is thicker to provide protection.

Oils have polymers in them which are long chains of molecules. In the cold, they are coiled up into a sphere. When they are heated, they expand and take up more space in the oil (and boost viscosity, such as making a 5W-40 oil go from 5 to 40). When they cool down again, they contract and take up less space in the oil.

Thus you will notice more oil in the oil inspection window when you are checking it with hot oil. The oil has expanded both due to temperature and due to its polymers expanding and thickening the oil. Then, when the oil has cooled down and contracted, you will see the oil level go back down.

Here's an interesting video I found: 131743 Comparison Of Used SAE10W-40 Engine Oils

The video shows how temperature has a role on an oil's viscosity, and how viscosity can be modified by viscosity modifiers (like polymers). Colder temperatures can thicken oils and make the engine harder to start (and for oil to be pumped around). With viscosity modifiers, we can make the oil flow more readily at colder temperatures (beaker #3 versus #4). With frequent use, the oil can be sludgy (beaker #2) but better oil (beaker #1) can maintain performance.
 

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Hi SCT, do you mean "warm" with the engine running? My oil level is midway when the engine is "warm" and not running. However, if the engine is running at idle, the oil level check (sight glass) window gets filled with oil way past the upper limit. Is this normal?

Here's a video of a Yamaha R1 with engine running (actually, the bike is on the roll). His oil level is past the upper limit at lower speeds, but when revved the oil level gets below the lower limit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G672GX5ycq0
 

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From the Kawasaki Service Manual:

Recommended Engine Oil
Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA,
MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Capacity: 1.6 L (1.7 US qt) (when filter is not
removed)
1.8 L (1.9 US qt) (when filter is removed)
2.3 L (2.4 US qt) (when engine is
completely dry)
 

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From the Kawasaki Service Manual:

Recommended Engine Oil
Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA,
MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Capacity: 1.6 L (1.7 US qt) (when filter is not
removed)
1.8 L (1.9 US qt) (when filter is removed)
2.3 L (2.4 US qt) (when engine is
completely dry)
This is what I go by. I remove the filter, replace, and use up 1.9 quarts of oil. If I am being lazy I guess I can dump 2 whole bottles into the bike and still be within the lines.
 
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From the Kawasaki Service Manual:

Recommended Engine Oil
Type: API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA,
MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-40
Capacity: 1.6 L (1.7 US qt) (when filter is not
removed)
1.8 L (1.9 US qt) (when filter is removed)
2.3 L (2.4 US qt) (when engine is
completely dry)
Hey Oz, could you check something for me? While the engine is running at idle (and the bike on rear stands, if you have one), could you check the oil level check (sight glass) window if the oil level goes up past the upper limit? I'm getting a bit worried, as my oil level fills the sight glass during idle (am not sure if this is normal). Thanks in advance.
 

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Hey Oz, could you check something for me? While the engine is running at idle (and the bike on rear stands, if you have one), could you check the oil level check (sight glass) window if the oil level goes up past the upper limit? I'm getting a bit worried, as my oil level fills the sight glass during idle (am not sure if this is normal). Thanks in advance.
I have seen my bike do this before, while idling and bike upright (not with stands, but with me holding it up while I am kneeling next to it).
 

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Hey Oz, could you check something for me? While the engine is running at idle (and the bike on rear stands, if you have one), could you check the oil level check (sight glass) window if the oil level goes up past the upper limit? I'm getting a bit worried, as my oil level fills the sight glass during idle (am not sure if this is normal). Thanks in advance.
Okies...will do, but in my opinion this is normal for any engine. When running you have a lot of large moving parts in the crankcase - perhaps the oil is being pushed up the sides of the CC and thus covering the sight glass....just my take on it.
 

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Hi Kojiro & Oz, thanks I appreciate it. I just hope nothing's wrong with my oil pump, as the bike is already out of warranty. :-(
 

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Hi SCT, do you mean "warm" with the engine running? My oil level is midway when the engine is "warm" and not running. However, if the engine is running at idle, the oil level check (sight glass) window gets filled with oil way past the upper limit. Is this normal?

Here's a video of a Yamaha R1 with engine running (actually, the bike is on the roll). His oil level is past the upper limit at lower speeds, but when revved the oil level gets below the lower limit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G672GX5ycq0
I was being distracted by my family member while I was typing (she wanted me to verify the cost of our Philippine domestic flights). What I meant by "warm" is regular operating temperature.

Yes, the oil level in the sight glass will increase since your oil has thickened (for example, the polymers have expanded and are taking up more space), liquids expand with heat, and so on.

The Yamaha R1 has a wet sump. A wet sump has the oil pan beneath the crankshaft and a pump sucks the oil up and forces it around the engine with the oil eventually going back down to the oil pan (sump). A wet sump system usually needs a lot of oil, perhaps 4 liters or more. In that video, it looks like under hard acceleration the oil is being pushed to the back of the pan (and away from the forward-facing sight glass).

A dry sump, on the other hand, stores the oil in a separate tank such as in the frame. This allows the engine to be mounted lower. One pump pumps the oil from the bottom of the engine back into the tank and a second pump pumps it throughout the engine.

Our Ninja 650 is a semi-dry sump. It is basically a dry sump but the oil is stored at the bottom like in a wet sump. It has a benefit of a more stable oil level, not needing as much oil (our oil pan is offset, for instance), etc. The oil pump is driven by a chain that's connected to the clutch housing gear, so as your clutch spins, the pump will pump the amount of oil the engine needs. Thus, while your engine is idling, the engine doesn't need much oil pumped and you will see most of your oil in the oil pan. If you put your bike in gear so that the clutch is connected, your oil pump will then start pumping more oil as you gain speed.

Hey Oz, could you check something for me? While the engine is running at idle (and the bike on rear stands, if you have one), could you check the oil level check (sight glass) window if the oil level goes up past the upper limit? I'm getting a bit worried, as my oil level fills the sight glass during idle (am not sure if this is normal). Thanks in advance.
I just did this for you but I don't have a suction cup mount for my camera. I was going to take before and after pictures, but started eating when I got home. My oil level sits just above the middle of the sight-glass when cold. After a 10-minute ride, it was near the top.

Remember that the limits in the sight glass depend on how the manufacturer specifies that the oil level should be checked. If the manufacturer says to check when the engine is cold, then they placed the sight glass at the right position so that the oil level will be in the middle. If the manufacturer specifies to check the oil level when the engine is up to regular operating temperature, then they may place the sight glass higher on the bike so that the oil level is where the manufacturer expects it to be when warm. Kawasaki specifies that we should check when the engine is cool. Therefore, the limits on the sight glass only matter when the engine is cool. The maximum limit only specifies the maximum amount the engine should have when cold otherwise the oil will become too high when the engine is warm.
 
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