[Gordz]

I'm in the 24,000km range right now, and my ninja is due for this. Thanks HEAPS for the write up

 

[quick66]

I'm glad you found it useful. I hope it helps others. That's what these forums are all about. I've gotten numerous useful bits of info off of here. Just trying to give a little back. Beautiful part of the world you're in. I did some work in NSW a few years back. Even took in some quality drag racing at a track outside of Sydney. Can't recall the name of it, but it was a great facility. Loved watching all the Holdens and other cars running. Was odd see them flicking gears from the passenger seat

 

[stevenvt]

Thanks for the writeup quick. I haven't been logging many miles on my N1K but copied all of your images and writeup for future reference.

I recently did a valve adjustment on my DL650. I wasn't confident I could put it all back together so I did one cylinder first, ordered the shims from the dealer and waited a couple of days for the parts and put it all back. I realized I would run out of time if I waited for another set of shims before I would have to use the bike on a trip. On the second cylinder I took the shims that were out of spec and sanded them down using 400 and 600 grit paper laid flat on a piece of glass and lubricated with WD40. It took about 10 minutes of sanding and checking with a micrometer per shim. The beauty of this is that it is basically free and you can get each shim to the exact maximum opening spec. I actually went back to the other cylinder and set every valve to maximum opening. The bike ran exceptionally smooth. The only downside for me I was unable to log into my computer at work because I had sanded off my fingerprint.

 

[quick66]

Thanks for the writeup quick. I haven't been logging many miles on my N1K but copied all of your images and writeup for future reference.

I recently did a valve adjustment on my DL650. I wasn't confident I could put it all back together so I did one cylinder first, ordered the shims from the dealer and waited a couple of days for the parts and put it all back. I realized I would run out of time if I waited for another set of shims before I would have to use the bike on a trip. On the second cylinder I took the shims that were out of spec and sanded them down using 400 and 600 grit paper laid flat on a piece of glass and lubricated with WD40. It took about 10 minutes of sanding and checking with a micrometer per shim. The beauty of this is that it is basically free and you can get each shim to the exact maximum opening spec. I actually went back to the other cylinder and set every valve to maximum opening. The bike ran exceptionally smooth. The only downside for me I was unable to log into my computer at work because I had sanded off my fingerprint.

Stevenvt,

I applaud your resourcefulness, but I'm not sure it's a good idea to sand down the shims. I'm reasonably sure that the shims are surface hardened to slow down the wear process. I'm concerned you might have removed some/all of the treated surface. I would keep an eye on it to see if the valve lash is moving. I hope I'm wrong, but I wanted to mention it as I would hate to see your engine damaged. LOL on sanding off your fingerprints. I don't like biometrics anyway

 

[rcannon409]

Excellent write-up. I appreciate the advise. It made me remember being 18 and adjuration the valves on my 77 kz 650. It odd to think of how much technology has changed, yet the procedure (and parts) are virtually identical.

 

[stevenvt]

Quick66 Valve Adjustment PDF

I converted all the text and images in this thread into a 13 page PDF file for handy garage reference. Since riderforums has limits on files sizes, I put this PDF file on a google drive that should be accessible by anyone with the link below:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3Q_M1K-FbrLOEdFUXgwVTFSRUE/edit?usp=sharing

There is "file" button in the upper left that will allow to download a copy to your PC for future reference. The file is a little over 1MB in size.

 

[quick66]

Thanks for taking the time to put that in a PDF! Will be much easier than holding a laptop with greasy hands

 

[wingsbc]

I have a question about the crank case sensor cover removal. Do you need to drain the engine oil before you remove it?

 

[quick66]

I have a question about the crank case sensor cover removal. Do you need to drain the engine oil before you remove it?

Hi Wing,

No, you do not need to drain the oil to remove the cover. You will need another gasket to replace the one you remove. Alternatively you can use a sealer (like Yamabond or similar). I left my bike on the side stand when servicing the valve lash and didn't loose any oil in the process.

HTH...

 

[vaguin70]

that confirms what i thought, these bikes engine are made to last a long time, i have seen these bikes with over 60.000 miles on them and their valve clearance is fine, i think there is not need of that with such a low mileage...

thanks for sharing amigo

 

[jwb]

Very useful thread, thank you! One surprise: why oh why did you remove the cam if all of the clearances were right on the money? Weren't they a tiny bit different after you put it back together?

 

[Vic.Thing]

Very useful thread, thank you! One surprise: why oh why did you remove the cam if all of the clearances were right on the money? Weren't they a tiny bit different after you put it back together?

The torque sequence requires removing the intake cam before the exhaust cam. If adjustments were only on the intake side you could get away with only removing the intake cam. Changes in clearances would be immeasurable if at all, probably in the 10,000s of a mm.

 

[C4cycle]

Very useful thread, thank you! One surprise: why oh why did you remove the cam if all of the clearances were right on the money? Weren't they a tiny bit different after you put it back together?

IIRC, the OP figured since he had the bike apart anyway, and it was minimal effort to make the shim changes, he would bump them to the most optimal 'in spec' thickness. Saves likely having to even bother checking for quite some time, I would think. That said, I have heard some modern engines get tighter clearances (not looser??) over time. Not sure, never checked valves before in anything.

 

[Vic.Thing]

IIRC, the OP figured since he had the bike apart anyway, and it was minimal effort to make the shim changes, he would bump them to the most optimal 'in spec' thickness. Saves likely having to even bother checking for quite some time, I would think. That said, I have heard some modern engines get tighter clearances (not looser??) over time. Not sure, never checked valves before in anything.

The reason they get tighter is the valve acting like a slide hammer against the valve seat. If it ever increases this is most likely due to some mechanical issue, cam lobe's wiping, bucket is being ground down, valve's stuck open, etc.

 

[rcannon409]

Very useful thread, thank you! One surprise: why oh why did you remove the cam if all of the clearances were right on the money? Weren't they a tiny bit different after you put it back together?

I love it when smart people ask questions, and your question fits that description.

Japanese engines, and manufacturing, a is something that almost put Detroit into bankruptcy in the late 70's, early 80's. Japan learned how to make these smaller engines with precision never before seen. AN at a price point that was silly low.

Its crazy to imagine, but this valve-train is so precision you can measure, take it apart, and it will still measure the same when you are done, like Vic said.


We could open up his zx14, and grab his cams. We could then install those in a different zx14 and be pretty close on valve clearances, close enough to run .

That assumes we could launch an attack ont he Vic compound and get past the armed guards, razor wire fences, attack dogs, and security system.

Over his waterfall, and around his pool. Past the ten car garage, and into his 30 stall motorcycle work area.