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Discussion Starter #1
had new front brakes put on yesterday,at first were great,,today Im hearing a buzzing noise when I apply brakes coming to a stop from a high speed..No buzzing when just moving slow and braking as in stop and go traffic..
also it seams to go with the rythm of the lever,,as I was fooling around and testing when I heard the buzzing,I noticed it kept time with the pumping of the lever.
any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you break in the pads?
probably not because this is the first time I had brakes changed and no one ever told me to do that...how do I break them in? and what do you think the buzzing sound is? thanks
 

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Well buzzing is usually a vibration so I'd check over and retighten everything first. Then take the bike up to 60-70 and stomp on them real good a few times. It seats the pads and prevents glazing of the friction surfaces which cause noise. The stock pads did it real bad the first couple thousand miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well buzzing is usually a vibration so I'd check over and retighten everything first. Then take the bike up to 60-70 and stomp on them real good a few times. It seats the pads and prevents glazing of the friction surfaces which cause noise. The stock pads did it real bad the first couple thousand miles.
Is it too late to brake in? Ive ridden about less than 100miles so far with new pads without the break in process. what if glazing is already happened? reversable?

and everything is tight,,I did check that,,,its not a vibration,,its more like a humming,and it only happens when coming to a stop,,not while riding normally.

,,i also found this on another site,,,what do you think


http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/v...-talk/76015-new-brake-pads-now-new-noise.html
 

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What kind of pads are you using?

If they're glazed real bad you take them off and sand them lightly and clean the crap out of them. Then do the break in procedure, it's never too late and I did it every thousand or so miles when the squealing came back. I doubt they're that bad that they need to be sanded.

Some people do it from 30-0 then 40-0 then 50-0 then 60-0. Personally I'm impatient and stomp on it from 60 the first time and do it about 3 times, never had an issue with noisy pads. Granted some brands are inherently noisy compared to others and nothing you can do will change that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What kind of pads are you using?

If they're glazed real bad you take them off and sand them lightly and clean the crap out of them. Then do the break in procedure, it's never too late and I did it every thousand or so miles when the squealing came back. I doubt they're that bad that they need to be sanded.

Some people do it from 30-0 then 40-0 then 50-0 then 60-0. Personally I'm impatient and stomp on it from 60 the first time and do it about 3 times, never had an issue with noisy pads. Granted some brands are inherently noisy compared to others and nothing you can do will change that.
Thanks for the help,,next ride Im gonna try to seat properly,consciencly..I probably did it unknowingly on my ride yesterday,there was a lot of sparatic traffic,and having to stop quiclky,not hard stops, but quick and often..
BTW , they are Kawa brand from dealer,whatever they use...
 

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Yeah they like to squeal a bit. As I said it did it real bad for the first thousand miles and then sporadically for the next 3k. Every 300-500 miles I'd stomp on them real good and they'd be quiet for a while. But they're actually better than some of the aftermarket ones.
 

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Old trick, back in the mid 70's when disc first came out on cars we had to do a couple of different things. First we had to use what was call then a trail cut, you need to angle cut each end of the pad just a little if your pads are completely flat. This allows the dust to escape.
Almost all car pads are now done that way.
To remove the glaze is easy if you have a small belt sander, either 60 or 80 grit will work and only takes just a minute to remove the glaze from the pads.
Now be for warned! Your brakes after removing the glaze should be very strong and working better then new. These old tricked have served me well. One other thing is all a small amount red disc brake quiet. You need to put this on the back of the pad where the caliper pushes in on the pad.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What kind of pads are you using?

If they're glazed real bad you take them off and sand them lightly and clean the crap out of them. Then do the break in procedure, it's never too late and I did it every thousand or so miles when the squealing came back. I doubt they're that bad that they need to be sanded.

how hard is it to remove the new pads so I can see if they are glazed and sand them a bit..do I have to remove the whole caliper?
Im still getting that hummung when braking at high speed,,making me nuts.sounds like chicadas in my ears..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
never mind,,,I just found this thread

http://www.riderforums.com/showthread.php?t=60238


Now Im wondering,I was watching the guy who did my brakes,,,he had the whole caliper off...why didnt he just do it this way..If my calipers are sticking,,,can I spray brake cleaner in there to looses them up? or is it some kind of lube that goes in there?
 

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Its much easier when it's unbolted. Pads pop right out and its quicker/easier pushing the pistons back in. I think you'd risk gouging the rotors trying to push the pistons back in depending on how you try to do it. Personally I'd always unbolt them, takes another 60 seconds for a lot less headaches.

You can try spraying the crap out of them with brake cleaner first and then stomping on them like I mentioned above to seat them. If that doesn't work you can lightly sand them. They make some no squeal stuff for the back of the pads that you'd need to remove them for if you wanted to apply that. So if you were going to sand them anyways it wouldn't hurt to pop the pads out and apply some. Also put some grease on the pins that the pads slide on but be VERY careful not to get any on the pads/rotors or you'll be causing the same squealing problem all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Its much easier when it's unbolted. Pads pop right out and its quicker/easier pushing the pistons back in. I think you'd risk gouging the rotors trying to push the pistons back in depending on how you try to do it. Personally I'd always unbolt them, takes another 60 seconds for a lot less headaches.

You can try spraying the crap out of them with brake cleaner first and then stomping on them like I mentioned above to seat them. If that doesn't work you can lightly sand them. They make some no squeal stuff for the back of the pads that you'd need to remove them for if you wanted to apply that. So if you were going to sand them anyways it wouldn't hurt to pop the pads out and apply some. Also put some grease on the pins that the pads slide on but be VERY careful not to get any on the pads/rotors or you'll be causing the same squealing problem all over again.
being mechanically declined,I drummed up the courage to try to remove the pads...so easy..i wish I would have known this before I went to the dealer..Next experiment is removing the caliper..do they always bolt back in thre same place or do you have to mark or remember where they were on the rotor...

these may sound like dumb questions,but when youve never done something before,you never know what to expect..after you do it once you can sit back and listen to others dumb questions,,lol

your patience is appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They make some no squeal stuff for the back of the pads that you'd need to remove them for if you wanted to apply that. .
I saw that stuff and was wondering why would you apply it to the back of the pads?
 

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Supposed to absorb the noise and stop it from being transmitted to other areas. I've never used/needed it but some people I know swear by it.
 

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I have a buzz noise too. It almost sounds like some sort of electronic device or something. I did also recently do a front and back brake job (pads). As I ponder it...I wonder if it could be like a tiny hydrolic leak making the noise? Brakes work fine though...and it's been a few months since the change.
 

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A leak would cause loss of lever resistance and loss of brakes. Buzzing is usually vibration, squealing is usually glazed or worn pads but some pads are naturally noisy.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so I was in the stealership for 1 1/2 hours today watching the mech.fiddle with my brakes trying everything to get rid of the sound..fiddle-test ride--fiddle-test ride-fiddle-test ride..even put some of that noise grease on back of the pads..that helped a little, but buzzing still there...then he says "some noise is normal(after working on it for 1.5hrs) metal against metal has to make some noise" thats funny,,I was ridding with low pads and I didnt hear any noise....then he says,try it for a week,,if still there he will replace pads with OEM pads...what a PITA.
 

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Just get rid of the brakes. Put some spikes on the bottom of your boots and when you wanna stop stomp down really hard. Kickin it old school, Flinstone style.
 
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