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Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't find the thread about the negative wire for the PCIII, where the guys bike was dying from time to time. So here is my long story.

I had to hard wire the negative wire from PCIII to the battery post, was just plugged into factory plug and worked for about 4,000 miles.

Just got back from vacation, went to Sturgis and took the long way back.

Only 2 mishaps on the trip, one being the PCIII

Once or twice driving around in sturgis my FI light came on and the bike died. Started right back up but thought WTF.

Took the bike out of the garage yesterday for a spin around town and it left me stranded beside the road. If i gave it any throttle the FI light came on and bike died. Then FI light started coming on at an idle. Trying to limp it home and the bike was dying about every 10 ft. Finally the FI light came on and stayed on. If I cycled the key the light would go out, bike would start and die.... FI light come on.

Battery went dead from too many starts. Hitch hiked home to get car, jumpers and tools.

After charging battery the bike started and stayed running. Put the seat on and took off for home. Made it about 1/2 mile and died. could make it a few blocks at a time but I did make it home. Put it back on battery charger for the night.

Today I was trying to figure out WTF. The bike started and ran great just sitting in garage, could rev it up could not get it to die. WTF.....

I happen to bump the Negative PCIII wire where I had it plugged into the factory harness and the bike died. Every time I start the bike and just touch the wire the bike would die. Used contact cleaner to clean the pins. Still every time I touch the wire it would die.

I hard wired to battery. When on a 4 hour ride today and no more problems.

Just thought I would post my experience so if others are having problems with FI light or maybe mine was just a fluke.
 

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it can't be the PC:(:(:(. many people use this mod and had many positive feedback from them. use your digital camera, take pics of all the damaged you've done to your bike, in detail. someone here would point out what's wrong with yours.
 

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Also as an FYI you shouldn't ground direct to the battery, it's better to use a chassis ground. Getting power from the battery is fine but grounding should always be to bare metal on the chassis. Just protect it with a bit of dielectric grease to ensure it doesn't rust if you scrape paint off for metal to metal contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it can't be the PC:(:(:(. many people use this mod and had many positive feedback from them. use your digital camera, take pics of all the damaged you've done to your bike, in detail. someone here would point out what's wrong with yours.
Hi, No damage as far as I know. ran about 3000 miles before it acted up. Cut out a few times, than ran for another 1000 before it died. Probably drove it at least 10 hours since and has not blinked.

Guessing I have a broken wire based on the slightest touch killed it and the vib of the engine killing it. Not sure what the mili-second response time is on the PCIII but I could not detect open circuit with a Wiggy. I'd bring an O-scope home and scope for a mili-second open circuit issues but the problem went away by grounding to battery.

Time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also as an FYI you shouldn't ground direct to the battery, it's better to use a chassis ground. Getting power from the battery is fine but grounding should always be to bare metal on the chassis. Just protect it with a bit of dielectric grease to ensure it doesn't rust if you scrape paint off for metal to metal contact.
Just curious, why is it better to ground to the chassis ground?

Other then too many connections to the battery and terminals coming loose. Not an earth ground system so chassis grounds to battery. Just wondering.
 

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If you decide to ground to the frame there are a couple spot specifically designed for that purpose. Make sure you use one of those.
 

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Just curious, why is it better to ground to the chassis ground?

Other then too many connections to the battery and terminals coming loose. Not an earth ground system so chassis grounds to battery. Just wondering.
The ground side of the battery is where the battery corrosion starts. If you connect directly to the negitive side of the battery and not to the frame it could lose contact faster then connecting to the frame.

Like Streak07 said use the frame and make sure its not painted, also use a star washer with your bolt it will help with grounding.
 
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