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Did another oil change today and still no issue with no pressure. Used a Fram tough guard 6607(think that is the number). Filled the filter like I normally do and then added oil to the top of the fill line. Oil light went out he same as it does on every start I have ever made.
 

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I stopped havign the issue when I quit taking the oil out AND having the filter off, at the same time. Both times were oem filters. Now I dont remove the filter until 3 qts of the new oil are in the bike.
Just changed my oil and this method worked like a charm. Light went out as usual with no burp. I also prefilled the filter. Cheers rcannon409.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
CHANGED THE OIL FOR THE 4TH TIME AND HAD TO BURP IT. STARTED IT - LIGHT STAYED ON FOR ABOUT 6-7 SEC AND I BEGAN TO HEAR ENGINE KNOCK. SHUT IT OFF A FEW MIN. STARTED IT AND BURPED FILTER, OIL PRESSURE ACHIEVED. I HATE THIS OIL PUMP AIR LOCK BS.
 

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Third oil change, no oil pressure at startup. Using Kawasaki filter. Kept starting it over and over again and letting it run for 30 seconds. Still no pressure. I remembered others posting about that problem and having to burp the filter. So I backed off the filter a little, started bike again, a little oil came out, stopped engine. Tightened oil filter back up and started and had pressure within a few seconds. This problem didn't happen for the first 2 oil changes. Weird huh?
 

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What works for me: put on rear stand, remove oil cap, drain oil, remove filter, replace filter, install drain plug, fill with four quarts of syn oil, put thumb over oil-fill whole, start and run for ten seconds, turn off then replace oil cap. Works every time.
 

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Changed mine twice since I got it. Never had an issue.

Running a Bosch 3300 and Rotella Synthetic. No prefill, no burping, and no issue.

No worries mates.
 

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I followed the service manual exactly for my first (and only so far) oil change and I had no problems whatsoever.

1. drain oil
2. remove old filter
3. apply oil or grease to new filter's gasket
4. hand-tighten filter
5. add 3.8L of oil (this would be 3.2 if not changing filter or 4.0 if engine is bone dry after rebuild)
6. loosen filter to bleed the air, then tighten with filter wrench/torque wrench
7. start engine for a few minutes
8. stop engine for a few minutes, then check oil level
9. add or remove oil if necessary

EDIT: I realized that this is the procedure from the 3rd edition service manual from May 8, 2012. I have a digital copy of the service manual which is the 2nd edition of June 20, 2011, and it does not include bleeding the air out of the filter.
 

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Had to burp mine today. I used the same method that HAD worked for me before....three new quarts in, change filter, than the last quart. No difference today, except I could not ride and let the bike drain for at least 30 minutes. Maybe extended drain times makes this worse?
 

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Had to burp mine today. I used the same method that HAD worked for me before....three new quarts in, change filter, than the last quart. No difference today, except I could not ride and let the bike drain for at least 30 minutes. Maybe extended drain times makes this worse?
You might be right about that cannon. That is what I did differently this time was extended drain time(2 hrs) Never had to burb before when doing a quicker change.
 

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I've let mine drain overnight a few times and did not have the air pocket issue. Sure seems random.

I don't think you can go wrong following the 3rd edition service manual procedure.
 

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Just changed mine and I always prime the filter. Except this time I noticed that after filling the filter (OEM) about 2 thirds of the way and letting it sit for a while that just about all of the oil was soaked into the filter medium. So I filled it again and installed it. Oil light was on for about 3 seconds after that. Previous changes without a 'let filter sit and fill again' cycle took at least twice as long for the light to go out. All good methinks. And after owning a KTM for some years (LC4 640 SM) I find all other oil change procedures encountered so far quite trivial and straight forward. Talk about convoluted on the KTM with filling & burbing the frame !!!
 

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Just did my 3rd oil change and finally needed to burp mine. Thanks for the info here everyone as I had a great heads up and knew how to remedy it. :swink:
 

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Oil change - oil symbol, warning light problem solved

=Problem solved=

my 2 first oil changes i did them by pouring the oil, slowly without any funnel and i didnt get any problem, on my third oil change i used a funnel and poured the oil really fast, after that the oil symbol and the warning light came up, then i drained the oil again without removing the oil filter and i poured the oil again really slow and problem solved, so i think when you pour the oil really fast by using a tight funnel, what you are doing is trapping air into the system without the chance of escaping somewhere, and when you pour the oil slowly, the air inside escape through the fill cap hole

hope it helps

greetings from Colombia amigos
 

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This explains a lot, thanks! For me, 3 oil changes, no burps. But even though I use a funnel I add oil fairly slowly. I wonder if the being being straight up on a stand or angled on the side stand makes any difference. I've always wondered why some folks had issues and others of us did not. Well done!
 

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=Problem solved=

my 2 first oil changes i did them by pouring the oil, slowly without any funnel and i didnt get any problem, on my third oil change i used a funnel and poured the oil really fast, after that the oil symbol and the warning light came up, then i drained the oil again without removing the oil filter and i poured the oil again really slow and problem solved, so i think when you pour the oil really fast by using a tight funnel, what you are doing is trapping air into the system without the chance of escaping somewhere, and when you pour the oil slowly, the air inside escape through the fill cap hole

hope it helps

greetings from Colombia amigos
You might have something there. 14 owners have the burping issue too, but like here no one has ever really figured out why. I've change my oil twice now and haven't had this issue. But I do tend to fill on the slower side, the funnel is fairly small and will overflow if I poor too fast. Like most people here, I usually pre-fill my oil filter about half and let it soak in.

Nice, I hope somehow this can get verified.
 

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Vaughn, thats nuts, but you might be on to something. I poured fast when mine did this. No problems when I could not find my regular, large funner.
 

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hi all, had this happen for the first time to me. did my 2nd change yesterday. actually i was starting for the first time since the change 5 days before. so that's 1 possibility to the extended drain times.
2nd thought is the funnel diameter to fill hole. this funnel i used was tight to the fill hole whereas prior may have been smaller and not tight to the opening. i will pay attention to this next time.
we also know it's nothing to do with the filter manufacturer- i've read that OEM filters suffer from this.
i have noticed either on my 300 and/or 650 (all bikes on rear stand) that a prefilled oil filter installed without the drain plug in place, oil will drain out. i have not confirmed how this n1k behaves.

PS: just noticed this is the 3rd gen forum. mine is a '15 n1k
PPS: oil was drained and refilled with bike on rear stand. next time i will refill on side stand.
 

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I have not had this happen since I've adopted these steps:
1. Remove the filler plug before draining, and don't leave it draining for too long. As soon as it transitions from running to dripping, that's good enough.
2. Leave the old oil filter on until the crankcase is drained and 1.5 qts. of new oil is added. Then change the filter. Then finish filling.
3. Use a loose fitting funnel.

I don't fill the filter before installing it (too messy).
 

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2 oil changes - no pre-fill, no burp. My process:

side stand
drain oil (until barely dripping)
replace drain plug
install new filter dry and torque
add oil (my funnel has a .5 inch hole)
screw on filler cap part way (not so loose it blows off, but it still wiggles)
let it sit for like 10 minutes
start - light goes off within 2-3 seconds
tighten oil filler cap fully
 
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