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So I purchased a brand new 2013 N1k. At 450mi I did my first oil change. Just like on any other bike i've owned - I opened the oil fill cap, removed drainplug, removed filter and let out for several minutes. Installed new filter - re tightened drain plug, filled with oil and re installed fill cap. When I started it - oil pressure light stayed on. I let it idle for a good 20 seconds In hopes of oil pressure being achieved after new oil filter is has filled - LIGHT STILL ON. I killed it to prevent any damage and let it sit for a few minutes. Started it again and let it idle - another 20 seconds still NO Oil Pressure!! On my third attempt, I started it with the Oil filter barely hand tight, cracked the oil filter loose with it running until a huge air pocket spewed out and oil then came fallowing - BOOM oil pressure achieved instantly after that.. I now have 950mi and changed the oil a second time - Everything I did the same except: when i filled with oil, i let the bike sit for 15min with no oil fill cap on to let all the oil run down - I then put the cap on and started it (with a dry oil filter) and oil pressure was achieved within 4-5 seconds.. Whats up with this oil pump air lock situation? Have any of you experienced it, if so what is your solution? HAS ANYONE DAMAGED THEIR ENGINE BECAUSE OF THIS?!
 

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There has been a lot of discussion about this and I'm not sure anyone has come up with a foolproof method other than what you did. I just give it a quick rev after refilling and the light goes out. I don't recall anyone ever suspecting the issue to have caused any damage.
 

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So I purchased a brand new 2013 N1k. At 450mi I did my first oil change. Just like on any other bike i've owned - I opened the oil fill cap, removed drainplug, removed filter and let out for several minutes. Installed new filter - re tightened drain plug, filled with oil and re installed fill cap. When I started it - oil pressure light stayed on. I let it idle for a good 20 seconds In hopes of oil pressure being achieved after new oil filter is has filled - LIGHT STILL ON. I killed it to prevent any damage and let it sit for a few minutes. Started it again and let it idle - another 20 seconds still NO Oil Pressure!! On my third attempt, I started it with the Oil filter barely hand tight, cracked the oil filter loose with it running until a huge air pocket spewed out and oil then came fallowing - BOOM oil pressure achieved instantly after that.. I now have 950mi and changed the oil a second time - Everything I did the same except: when i filled with oil, i let the bike sit for 15min with no oil fill cap on to let all the oil run down - I then put the cap on and started it (with a dry oil filter) and oil pressure was achieved within 4-5 seconds.. Whats up with this oil pump air lock situation? Have any of you experienced it, if so what is your solution? HAS ANYONE DAMAGED THEIR ENGINE BECAUSE OF THIS?!
That is a strange one. I've been lucky so far with my nine oil changes and the light has always gone off within 3 or 4 seconds.
 

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For my part it happened one time.
Since then I prefill the oil filter and let it sit all night to let it soak all the oil so it does not spit on the ground when installing it.
No oil light problem since I do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea. The bike is running beautifully and I am very pleased thus far. Just a slight inconvenience you have to worry about this every oil change.

I read from two sources that when this happens.. the engine indeed does not have oil pressure - technicians removed the oil pressure switch with the engine running after an oil change on an N1k when this happened.. NOT A DROP of oil came out, NOT GOOD! so everyone OUGHT TO BE CAREFUL and double check everything/burp the system if need be.
 

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I've always pre-filled the oil filter on every car/truck/bike I have ever owned when doing an oil change. Not sure if that kept me from having this issue with the bike, but so far no problems with oil pressure after the change.
 

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On my 3rd oil change, never had the light on for longer than the normal-just-turned-on period. I too always fill the filter before putting it on, though with the horizontal mounted filters, you can only go about 2/3ish or else you will pour a ton out when you go to screw it back on.
 

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I'm one for three having to burp the filter.
 

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I'm one for three having to burp the filter.
I've had to burp it every time - 12k miles. Minor inconvenience i guess....
 

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For those who have to burp the filter, the bike was on the rear stand or side stand while oil change? I have done tree oil change on the side stand whit out any problems. Just a thought.
 

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For those who have to burp the filter, the bike was on the rear stand or side stand while oil change? I have done tree oil change on the side stand whit out any problems. Just a thought.
Always on sidestand. Tried prefilling etc. - no love
 

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Great thing about this bike, is that you can do oil changes without lifts, stands, or taking off any body work. I love it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
True that. don't have to remove anything to change the oil!!. Btw, changed the oil for the third time yesterday and neither that time or the previous did I have to burp the filter. I love this bike!!
 

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I'm beginning to suspect choice of oil filter might have something to do with it. I always prefill the filter and yet just about every single oil change both on the 2003 and 2010 Z1000 has resulted in the oil light staying on. I've always used Purolator PL14610.
 

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I changed the oil yesterday with the K&N KN-303 prefilled with Rotella T6 synthetic. Besides getting the factory tightened oil filter off, had no issues at all. The KN-303 has a built-in pressure relief valve. I have read elsewhere that our Kawi engines do not have a relief valve and depend on the oil filter. This was supposed info from a K&N rep so not sure about it's validity.
 

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I stopped havign the issue when I quit taking the oil out AND having the filter off, at the same time. Both times were oem filters. Now I dont remove the filter until 3 qts of the new oil are in the bike.
 
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