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For the people with a 2 brothers, have you tried using the map made for a stock pipe and air filter? Im going to try it this week, and may mess around and copy/paste the 4k-6k range from the stock map to the 2 brothers map.
 

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Hey I've got a dumb question that maybe you could point me in the right direction. I bought a Two Brothers Juice Box Pro off of a friend. It was unused and for a 2014 Yamaha FZ6R, I had no idea that it was for that bike not for an 08 R6. The only difference between the two is that the connection for one of the connectors is different. the slit in it is moved a fraction to the side. And I was wondering if after adjusting that slit it would still work. The only thing I can think is that if it didn't work, I could just take it out. The Pro has a bunch of maps on it that I myself put on for the R6, do you think it will work?
 

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I say do it and let us know. Personally, I wouldn't. Then again, I also did not purchase something without researching it first.
 

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Thank you for creating this thread :righton:

I've just put a PC V & Autotune on my Z750R this is the only place I've found proper answers to most on my questions :)

I'm guessing the software has changed a little since the thread was started.... The method for getting the Autotune working with the switch has changed.

When I set mine up today the tick box for "enable hardware switch (on/off)" didn't exist.
As Marked in the photo below, This is the OLD Autotune config window.


In the new software when you go to Power Commander Tools>Calibrate>Feature Enables and Input Selections you get this window.


As you can see I have both check boxes ticked for Autotune, I tried setting it as Switch Input 2 but then Autotune didn't work at all.
But with those settings, it all works as it it should, Autotune is off when my switch is off (open) and Autotune is on when the switch is on(closed) Checked using THIS method.

If you click 'Configure' for Autotune you get this box (as mine is set up), Notice that there isn't a check box for enable hardware switch anymore. :rolleyes: Believe me when everything you can find on the net (including the Power Commander & Dynojet websites) says a check box exists but you can't find it it gets a lot frustrating. :yell:


It's just been installed so the % change is still at 20% for now.

I'm just waiting for the O2 sensor eliminator to arrive to turn my FI light out and a Servo eliminator to arrive to get rid of the now obsolete exhaust butterfly servo.

1 other nugget of useful info I found for those of you who have to get your exhaust drilled for the Autotune O2 sensor, the ideal place for it is after all the downpipes meet but before the Cat (if you have one) "about" 10 inches from where the headers meet the engine. I don't know how feasible that is on your bikes but that is where the Stock O2 sensor is on mine.

Once more THANKS for all the useful info in this thread made setting up my PC V & Autotune MUCH easier.:headbang:

If you want to copy this lot into the start of the thread (or anywhere else) feel free, Hope this will be of some use.

Cheers AE
 

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Glad it helped and thanks for adding to it. I have not heard from the OP for awhile but I am sure he appreciates the input also.
 

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Hardware switch as in the toggle switch for 2 maps? I might wire up a switch one day just to experiment. The DJ one is pretty over priced imo.

In my 2 bothers write up there is a pic if where they welded the bung, from factory.

I am glad the thread helped you as well, it certainly was hte majority of my reading when I was researching. Great thread.
 

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Yeah a hard ware switch £1.50 from the local electronics store wired into the PC V mounted on the handle bars. allows me to switch the autotune on & off but would also allow you to switch maps if didn't have the Autotune.
 

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Good morning guys, just installed a Power Commander V fuel+ignition box on my bone stock Ninja 650R and thought I'd give my feedback to help answer others questions. The install was not over complicated and took approx 1hr to do. I still have stock exhaust so I tried the 17-030-001 map for Ninja 650R stock muffler and the 17-030-007 map for Versys stock muffler for comparison:

Map 17-030-001 Riding impression:
No noticeable difference from stock at low speed around town driving. There is a very noticeable increase in acceleration and midrange pull under wide open throttle. Looking at the map it adds timing from around 5,000rpms and up which correlates to where I can feel the increase. I am pretty impressed with the midrange punch the timing added.

Map 17-030-007 Riding Impression:
A noticeable increase in "pep" at low speeds, I found myself upshifting thru the gears quicker than normal in around town riding. Midrange felt flat to me, no real chance from stock. Top end acceleration felt very strong, stronger than stock, especially over 90mph.

In the end I went back to the 17-030-001 map, but the Versys map 17-030-007 was intriguing.


Just my two cents for guys on the fence about buying a PCV like I was. I hope to get a Yoshimura slip-on soon and try that map.

Thanks

Scott
 

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AutoTune Map with Arrow Slip On

Hey guys,

Finally got my AutoTune working on my Ninja and it feels great.....I had a small airleak which was causing misreadings.....I have attached my map for your viewing.....the arrow I think is probably the most straight through/loud slip on out there (even more than Two B in this case).... If anyone has the arrow setup and lives at around 1000ft let me know and I will give you the map.....I have it pretty well tuned in....I am turning it down to 5 percent tomorrow as all my numbers are now under 10 all the time... take a look....this exhaust requires A LOT of extra fuel.....

Well scratch that....my computer isn't allowing me to upload anything.....but know the map rocks!
 

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Troubleshooting the vibes ----

So, looking for some help understanding the maps and how to know what to accept from the auto tune suggested trims and what to amend. So i get vibes in 4-5k range.

It looks like the trims are trying to take something away with all the negatives in the screenshot. So any recommendations are welcome.

k&n filter
stock exhaust
pair valve mod

I started with a base map - M17-042-001-stock-everything.pvm
I ran it for 300 miles with AT turned on.

Text Font Parallel


Text
 

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If you are sure your setup is correct and there are no leaks, just keep accepting away. That is what I do but I am kind of lazy. Seeing all those -10 must mean you set a smart limit so you should have no worries there.
 

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With all the negative #s, is it taking away fuel? I am not sure I want that. Fuel helps keep the bike cool as well as keep the vibes down. I am still trying to wrap my head around what it is adding or taking away and when.
 

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My assumption would be that it is reducing fuel. I say assumption since it is not entirely clear in the documentation whether it is fuel or afr reduction. I am guessing the Auto Tune is a percentage of fuel change since the fuel table is mentioned the same as a percent change. What I don't know is if the -10% of the value is against the fuel table or -10% of fuel overall. By saying you have it set at 5% min/max, it kind of confuses the matter.

You could actually check for us by accepting all trims and posting the new map. That amount will not hurt anything at all and you can just switch back if you don't like it. My map has some pretty low/high numbers and my bike runs fine.

I started my fuel map with all 0's so then the Auto Tune is only adjusting based on what your setup is. By starting with a map, you are assuming the one posted is like yours. If it is not close to yours, it can get confusing as to why it is reducing or adding in certain spots. You may be seeing a reduction because the map you loaded was adding fuel already based on the bike they had. The chances of your bike being exactly like that one and tested in the same atmospheric conditions is slim.
 

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I did some more research and it reinforced my assumption, although, I don't believe I really know anything more. I did come across something a bit funny though and it kind of applies to how I treat the Auto Tune. In one of the replies by Dynojet, he basically stated not to worry about the numbers and just accept that it knows what it is doing. Basically, if you feel you want more fuel, lower your AFR in that area and the Auto Tune will get you there. The only time you would ever worry about what the Auto Tune is doing is when the numbers start reading to an extreme high or low.
 

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Quick question on the Auto Tune: There's the single sensor version, but also the dual sensor version for two cylinder bikes. Is there any benefit to the 650 in setting up each cylinder independent of each other (Either with the dual sensor, or using one sensor on one cylinder at a time)? I know the Akrapovic system I'm looking at only has the bung further down the headers after the two sections meet (meaning you can't individually set up each cylinder from this location, as everything is mixed together), so I would have to pay the extra money and have two bung holes drilled. Opinions? It seems like no one else is doing it.
 

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Personally, I wouldn't spend the extra time and money on it. I am not sure how much variation you would have between each cylinder on a 650 twin. When you start talking about big twins for HD, Ducati or KTM, then there might be some benefit or need.
 
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Alrighty, I assumed so, just been wanting to check for a while. THanks
 

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@ fencing dude: I think it was mentioned in mark the sharks FAQ (This thread, somewhere in the beginning) on the difference between 1 and 2 sensors.

@ Jeep: I am pretty sure the - or + numbers is how much fuel is reduced or increased for that %throttle range. I have spoke with them on the phone and they are pretty good at answering questions, so if anything, just call them up and find out, then you can post a confirmation here for the rest of us running PCV/AT or are looking to upgrade to AT soon.
 
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