[kojiiro]

Thanks for the measurements and pic Xpyron. I did some measuring but keep in mind these may be irrelevant depending on measurements on the Two Brothers, which I will have in a few days. I will follow up on that when I get it in, along with an update on it in conjunction with PCV, as well as AT if I ever get to purchasing one of those as well.

So far with a sensor length of ~2.25", and if I were to place the bung/sensor ~2" to the left of the oil plug, it would have ~.25 inches of clearance before meeting the fairings. With those measurements, hopefully a 90 degree bend upwards for the sensors wiring would not damage it. Just kind of thinking out loud right now so I dont forget to update this thread, as I hope it may help someone out who ends up buying some of the items discussed in this thread.

 

[XPyron]

Yeah, I understand there are too many variables between years and exhausts to know for sure what will work. In the instructions, it mentions to keep the wire as straight as possible but it does not state exactly how far out of the sensor. I cannot imagine it means the whole length. I have the connectors loosely zip tied to the fairing mount with the wire looping there and it does not seem to be an issue. I believe the idea is to avoid bending/crimping it too much.

 

[kojiiro]

Awesome thanks for the heads up. Its just wires right, not a hose? Electronically speaking, bending a wire has no effect on how it works. Its kinking it that could break it and cause malfunctions.

 

[kojiiro]

Ok So I tried doing the Gear calibration and this is what happened: Before clicking any of the calibrate buttons, the screen had values of gear ratios in each gear. At the right of these values was a "calibrate" button. Well I hit calibrate to see what would happen, since I figured I could just hit cancel to not accept any changes. When I hit calibrate, the values for that gear would clear out. I now have a table with all the gear ratio values cleared out. With the PCV on and bike running, I shifted through the gears (on a rear stand) and hit calibrate just as the manual says, but no values ended up in each gear. So I tried it with voltage instead and this time I would get a voltage in each gear. The voltages I assumed would be different for each gear. A DJ rep confirmed this but before I called, I looked at the voltages and gears 2-4 were the same. Anyone know what these should be reading? Should I just leave it alone?

 

[XPyron]

I never touched those. For stuff like that, their documents usually say they have the default values.

 

[kojiiro]

Wasnt able to locate it in the manual, will probably call them tomorrow.

 

[no_nonsense4857]

Hi Riders,
I am Sai. From India.
I have a 650 (2011 model) and started using the PCV and AutoTune just recently.
I don't race but tour a lot. This entire experience of the PCV has been a revelation and an enjoyable experience in learning new and previously unheard-of things.

Most of my doubts got answered while sifting through this good and informative thread. I had a question that is still unanswered and hence this post.

I have a GPR exhaust.
The DJ rep advised that the PCV map for the Jardine exhaust is the closest and I can use it as a start point.
I have loaded this map and intend to run the bike for around 400 km to see how the trim table looks like.

My doubt is with the below value range when I loaded the map M17-008-003.pvm
There is a value at 2000 rpm and 100% throttle.
Even 1st gear at 100% throttle crosses way beyond 2000 rpm.... so how did the system manage to capture this value (or for that matter all the other rpms in the screen shot at 100%).

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My bike in touring prep:

 

[XPyron]

Wasnt able to locate it in the manual, will probably call them tomorrow.

Sorry, I wasn't too clear. By them, I meant the documentation usually states to contact DJ for default values.

 

[XPyron]

My doubt is with the below value range when I loaded the map M17-008-003.pvm
There is a value at 2000 rpm and 100% throttle.
Even 1st gear at 100% throttle crosses way beyond 2000 rpm.... so how did the system manage to capture this value (or for that matter all the other rpms in the screen shot at 100%).

The preloaded maps are created on a dyno so they do not necessarily represent real world driving. It is easier on a dyno to throttle 100% from idle and hit any other planned range.

Unless your bike is running horribly, you could just load the zero map and create your own. I ended up doing that just so I knew what values I was loading. Just make sure you accept the trims after each ride and you get a custom map in no time. Once there, you can evaluate the map and how it feels in certain ranges and smooth/tweak the values, if needed.

 

[Lean It]

I read these threads on DJ when you guys comment back and fourth. I really want to learn as I intend to get one eventually. All I can say for now is it reads like a manual for building a NASA rocket or something.

 

[kojiiro]

I read these threads on DJ when you guys comment back and fourth. I really want to learn as I intend to get one eventually. All I can say for now is it reads like a manual for building a NASA rocket or something.

Its probably gping to keep reading that way till you get hands on. I read marks thread about 3 times, watched their videos and the best for me was just getting in there and trying everything out.

 

[kojiiro]

Ok so on this gear ratio calibration issue, I checked out my manual/documentation and there is a pic of the gear calibration window which reads like this:

Gear 1 141.449 - 100.864
Gear 2 100.864 - 72.373
Gear 3 72.373 - 55.837
Gear 4 55.838 - 46.210
Gear 5 46.210 - 39.417
Gear 6 39.417 - 35.149

I called DJ and they gave me a bunch of numbers, a 6 sets of numbers, then he paused and asked if I was ready for "the uppers" and gave me 6 more sets of numbers. In the notes area of my screen shot I have the first 6 sets of numbers as the lowers, and the second 6 sets as the lowers. they look really strange and to be honest look nothing like from what I remember before I hit the calibrate button which erased the values. The numbers I typed above look closer to the number range I had before I hit calibrate. Either way, with these numbers plugged in, I hit align and now the red bars in each gear ratio look a bit closer to how I saw it before, albeit with really big numbers as opposed to before.

If anyone with the time wants, could you post what your gear calibration screen has? Here is a pic of what I am talking about

[/IMG]

 

[XPyron]

Why did you touch them?

 

[kojiiro]

I saw a cancel button and wsnted to learn what I could do. Cancel didnt live upnto its name.

 

[rcannon409]

If you guys get a chance, how about a description of how an average dude might go abotu creating a decent fuel table to base the auto tune on.

You read instructions like "set it at 13.2" to anyone guess. I'd love to knwo why, or what exactly to set these to.

 

[XPyron]

What are you looking to do? I just used the stock map (17-030-001) to get their target AFR. I then zeroed out the fuel and left the ignition as is. That way, you can build a map specific to your bike and area. If you use a preset map, it is hard to notice what changes you made and which ones are still there. The stock map target AFR is for power though. You can increase the AFR a bit in the cruising range if you are looking for better fuel economy. I am light on the throttle though so even on the power map, I got 47mpg the last time I checked.

I just want to mention that I said to use the zero map previously to no_nonsense4857. What I meant by that is what I just stated. Sorry if that confused anyone. The zero map does not include DJ's target AFR.

 

[Lean It]

What are you looking to do? I just used the stock map (17-030-001) to get their target AFR. I then zeroed out the fuel and left the ignition as is. That way, you can build a map specific to your bike and area. If you use a preset map, it is hard to notice what changes you made and which ones are still there. The stock map target AFR is for power though. You can increase the AFR a bit in the cruising range if you are looking for better fuel economy. I am light on the throttle though so even on the power map, I got 47mpg the last time I checked.

I just want to mention that I said to use the zero map previously to no_nonsense4857. What I meant by that is what I just stated. Sorry if that confused anyone. The zero map does not include DJ's target AFR.

To late for Kojiiro- waha-ha! Just kidding Kojirro.

Seriously though, is there a default setting or original map you can reset to?

 

[rcannon409]

I want a good target for my auto tune to shoot for. I'm starting with a modified Ninja 1000. Flashed ecu, and a very good map...Still, I already own the auto tune....I'm looking for a good, baseline target arf. I'll put it in, and see how close my map is to it.

So, do I just plug it in and see where its at?

 

[XPyron]

Yeah, if you downloaded the stock map from DJ, you should already have the default AFR in there. You don't even have to plug it in. I will mention that you will read about not setting certain values in the 2%-5% throttle up to a certain RPM but my bike seems to like it. I tried it without them but it does better with them. The 1000 may differ though.

 

[kojiiro]

To late for Kojiiro- waha-ha! Just kidding Kojirro.

Seriously though, is there a default setting or original map you can reset to?

Too late for? The fuel mapping and gearing calibration are two completely different things.

Yes you can fall back to the original map, thats why its recommended to write notes in the notes area if you change anything, and save it as a different map name. You can use any map you want, just click "send".

Also