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Well it looks like this is definitely a timely thread! My bike started to leak out the weep hole Monday!! ARGG. She has 57K miles.

I did have one question. What do you think was the problem the first time you installed the mechanical seal to crack it?
Thanks for the in depth thread It is going to be invaluable to me in the coming days!
 

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The parts needed and P/N#, Prices on BikeBandit.com (free ship over$99) / Partzilla.com ( $5.95 ship)

Mechanical seal :
49063-1057 $28.36 / $20.44

Impeller:
59256-1066 $25.75 / $18.55

Cover Gasket:
1106-1172 $7.02 / $4.88

Shaft Oring:
670D1509 $3.29 / $1.96
 

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water pump leak

Went to the dealership today and picked up the rest of the parts. Yes you do need to order the impeller to get the other half of the mechanical seal. Got the bearing put in and went in very easy. The mechanical seal went easy as well. Now again for the bad news,.... again. Looked at the front of the mechanical seal to inspect it for cracks, which I guess happens when installing them, sure ****, I cracked it. Ordered another seal. Is there any mechanics on here that maybe could give me a pointer on the best way to put this seal in. I did it just like the manual tell you to.i think I will make a Delrin( type of durable plastic) install tool. I think if you just touch the side of the ceramic part of the seal while tapping it in, your done,cracked. The picture is of everything you will need to do the water pump correctly.
do you know the part # of the impeller and mechanical seal.
please & ty.
 

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Main problem is poor design of that water pump assembly. Shaft, bearings and seal are done inside of engine case. Outer bearing, mechanical seal and propeller can take out without splitting engine cases. Weeping hole is drilled too high inside of dry area between outer bearing and mechanical seal. This allow waterline coming too high before it comes out of weeping hole and bearing get water bath and may broke if bearing seal leak. That bearing have no oil lubrication, its have only grease inside and seals both side. Engine heat will destroy that bearing and grease toast out of seals, when its spinning dry, it want last long.
If its get water inside of bearing, its rusting and stop spinning. When outer bearing is frozen and shaft is still spinning, shaft eats bearings inner case and running support only inner bearing.
Outer bearing can take out without splitting engine cases with special bearing puller tool and slide hammer. If shaft surface is still good and smooth, changing by bearing, mechanical seal, propeller, o-ring and cover casket will cure the leak problem.
Bearing condition can be checkout by running the engine a moment without water pump parts ( propeller and mechanical seal) and looking if bearings inner side rolling without or with shaft. If it not spinning with shaft, its gone and must replace with new one.
 

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Was just reading about the water pump and looks like if you going to replace the ball bearings and oil seal you will need to split the cases. No need to split the cases just to replace the mechanical seal.
Hello I know its been ages since this post, I have coolant in my oil, wasted a lot of oil trying to sort it out, where is the oil seal inside crankcase such that no way out, or maybe there's a special tool in that case to press out the bearing? And replace the oil seal?
 

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Hello I know its been ages since this post, I have coolant in my oil, wasted a lot of oil trying to sort it out, where is the oil seal inside crankcase such that no way out, or maybe there's a special tool in that case to press out the bearing? And replace the oil seal?
If coolant not dripping out of weeping pipe, cylinder head gasket is maybe gone. Any oil mixed coolant ?

Water pump oil seal and inner bearing is inside of engine block, they cannot change outside.

Outer bearing can take out this kind of tool, smallest jaws of the set goes between bearing races, its only 3 mm wide clearance.
You need slidehammer with lockpliers too, I did use this:
 
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