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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a year and a half ago I put 15 LED strips on my 2015 Kawasaki Ninja 650. The techs at the bike shop told me I should keep my bike tendered when I wasn't riding it as the lights would drain my battery quickly. Around the same time I got a new battery. However, I did not listen to the techs and I'm learning my lesson. My battery now will charge up and only last a day before dying again. My question is, could it be that i just need to replace my battery or could it be something entirely different such as an alternator issue? I've been told a battery doesn't last longer than a year really on motorcycles, especially one with as many LED lights as mine. Any input would be great! Thanks

-CJ
 

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A battery should last a few years. You may have killed a cell by having it drain too much and now it just won’t hold a charge. The lights shouldn’t be drawing any power while they’re off but they could have a small draw.
 

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You learned your lesson. I had the same issue occur on a Ninja with a GPS Tracker alarm, which continually has a small battery drain. Like you, the issue was battery capacity after a few full discarges. It was also after less than a year. Most people only think about CCA when it comes to dead batteries. It also has a big effect on capacity. And the number one cause of dead lead-acid batteries is a full discharge.

Could it be the alternator? Sure. But it's unlikely in your situation. Considering that a new battery is about 30 bucks, honestly I would just change it and not give it further thought. It would probably be a good idea to install a bike voltmeter so you can monitor the battery's bike voltage, should it indeed have a alternator issue. In any case the voltmeter let's you know when you can't postpone putting it on the charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you guys for the feedback and advice!

MillenialNinja - what batteries do you recommend that are around 30 bucks? The ones I've researched for my 2015 650 all are around $60 and higher?
 

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MillenialNinja - what batteries do you recommend that are around 30 bucks? The ones I've researched for my 2015 650 all are around $60 and higher?
I replaced the battery on a 2016 Ninja 650 a few months ago in January. It cost me 35.42$. Now it seems to be at 44$ - I bought the orange one with the transparent top. Just take a look at the review for these YTX12A-BS batteries and pick whichever is cheapest with decent reviews. Be it a Yuasa or a discount bin special, no battery will take kindly to full discharge, and either will last years if kept on a charger. With that in mind I'd rather a cheap battery I can replace twice for the price of an OEM Yuasa.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I replaced the battery on a 2016 Ninja 650 a few months ago in January. It cost me 35.42$. Now it seems to be at 44$ - I bought the orange one with the transparent top. Just take a look at the review for these YTX12A-BS batteries and pick whichever is cheapest with decent reviews. Be it a Yuasa or a discount bin special, no battery will take kindly to full discharge, and either will last years if kept on a charger. With that in mind I'd rather a cheap battery I can replace twice for the price of an OEM Yuasa.
Awesome! Just ordered a batter from Pirate Battery - Thanks for the insight!
 

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It is termed "residual voltage" and the electronic circuit has to have a fault, for the condition to occur. For example, a faulty switch, relay, fuse panel or aftermarket contacts are too close together, or improperly contained. That allows amperage distribution, where arching & sparking can also occur. Why or how? An aftermarket switch draws Power (Current 'I' and voltage 'E'), if you connect it directly to your battery, even if you leave it "Off," which is in the de-energized position. If any aftermarket components drain your battery, your battery is likely worn first. If your new battery discharges, with aftermarket components, your everyday riding electrical load is too high, which includes accessories. Now, you shouldn't want to change your alternator because it uses even more power. Run your LED lights, with batteries, not connected to your primary battery or switch in the "Run or ACC" position. They are junk anyway, I'm talking about cell or AAA batteries.

Now, white LED riding lights are legal but they have to shine directly underneath the bike & that's for night time safety. Your battery draining & different colored LED lights is not safe at all, accident prone and a distraction. Emergency vehicles use blue & red lights, that means, you can't use those colors. Only police cars & ambulances are allowed to use those colors on the road, even if they flash or don't flash. :glassesti
 
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