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Discussion Starter #1
Hello! I just bought a Z1000, and I'm getting used to, and liking the bike. One thing that I wanted an opinion on is should I change the setting on my rear suspension? I am coming from a Honda 929(Which would power wheelie on command) And I just don't get the same response from the Z. I was considering hardening the rear suspension so I can get the same response as I got from my 929. Suggestions welcomed. Thanks.
 

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Put a bigger rear sprocket on that Z or smaller front (never tried that one but 1 tooth in the front is equal to 3 or so in the back). That is gonna be my next piece also.
 

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Yea if you lower the gearing wheelies will come a lot easier. I did +2 in the back and -1 in the front, bike is a lot more fun to ride.
 

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I went -1 up front. It wheelies a lot easier. I personally wouldn't go much more than that because I feel like I am reving a bit for long distance freeway riding. Although many people have gone much more extreme and they swear by it.
 

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Congrats on the Z, awesome ride
Power wheelie, you'll get there. Even a bone stock Z will come up in second
 

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congrats and welcome to the zed realm.

i went two up on the rear first and really noticed a vast improvement. a few weeks later i also added a -1 front; this really turned my zed into a beast.
i primarily only ride around the city so i don't mind the higher revs.
you should also seriously consider a power commander.

pics?
 

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congrats and welcome to the zed realm.

i went two up on the rear first and really noticed a vast improvement. a few weeks later i also added a -1 front; this really turned my zed into a beast.
i primarily only ride around the city so i don't mind the higher revs.
you should also seriously consider a power commander.

pics?
Nice pic @ negativegain...
Yes a K&N filter, Power Commander (with a dyno tune if you can), and exhaust.
 

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Isn't the 15 tooth front stock on the '07 Z? You are using the generic dynoJet map that I'm using also. It works well for me but the real power increase was the airbox mod I did after installing the PCIII. I cut out the complete top of the airbox cover (except the seal area of course) and it was like night and day difference. The added air intake was just what the PCIII was looking for and made a BIG difference in HP and torque. With the OEM 15 tooth in front and +3 (43) in the rear I can pull the front wheel up at 45 in first with just throttle and second gear with a quick shift or a pop of the clutch. A HUGE difference and not hard to do at all.
If you don't want to modify the airbox yourself your can buy one of these:

Airbox.jpg

They're showing 7 HP on a Z750 and I believe it after feeling mine.
 

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yes cutting the air box lid is definitely the biggest bang for your buck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks alot for the feedback guys. I figured that a rear sprocket, and suspension would help out quite a bit also. But, I also just needed some better road conditions, and a bit more time. I have found that with the Z, I just need to get up in the rpm a bit more.I've gotten a power wheelie at about 8K RPM in both 1st and 2nd. Its a bit more than expected, but it comes up fast, and is straight up and down. I have a Leo Vince exhaust, different bars, and a rear end kit also.(can't find keyhole for trunk) but I will have pictures of it by next weekend, as of right now I'm outa town. This is a great forum for Z riders, so happy I found it!
 

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the Z is a great bike and there of lots of quick and easy mods to transform it even more. As for the key hole it is under the tail on the left side, there is a hole and the lock is upinside.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you know if there is a tail elimination kit that sacrifices the use of the trunk? Because I have a pretty fancy looking kit, and I've spent over 20 minutes looking around that area to find something to open it, but I just don't see a thing. haha thanks ahead of time.
 

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Welcome to the site!

I went -1 up front. It wheelies a lot easier. I personally wouldn't go much more than that because I feel like I am reving a bit for long distance freeway riding. Although many people have gone much more extreme and they swear by it.
+1 to that. I would first start with dropping 1 tooth on the front which would be a 15t, fyi and go from there. Better to start small, then work your way up than doing it it the other way around imo.

Dropping one tooth on the front definitely makes the bike more responsive and livelier, especially in the lower rpm's where it was lacking before with stock gearing. It has been definitely one of the best mods I've done.
 

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Do you know if there is a tail elimination kit that sacrifices the use of the trunk? Because I have a pretty fancy looking kit, and I've spent over 20 minutes looking around that area to find something to open it, but I just don't see a thing. haha thanks ahead of time.
I'm not sure if there's an undertail kit that does away with the key and trunk but it's possible, and I vaguely remember a post or two about a setup that required relocating the key but can't remember details (gettin' old). But not being able to find the hole for the key with the stock setup is not that uncommon. Check out some of these threads on the subject:

http://www.riderforums.com/search.php?searchid=17541

The stock hole position is on the left side, just about a half inch from the left edge of the undertail piece. It's at the point where the angle of the tail changes and starts angling upward (at the bend, so to speak). It's not quite circular, it's a bit oblong. Hope this helps. Could you post some pics of your undertail with some closeups of that area so we can get a better idea of what you're working with?

Az
 

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nevermind
 
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