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I strongly advise against putting the stethoscope on the moving chain!!! LOL Best of luck Boss.

I would like to suggest another way as well. If it is the chain, which I think is the most likely, a better way to find it would be to go ride the bike for 15 minutes or so to get the chain warmed up (Listening to the noise as you ride) then come back and immediately change the chain tension a good bit (looser or tighter it does not matter) and then go ride again and see if the noise changes in any way.

I suspect that it will. The noise will change, but it will not go away. If that happens then you know it is the chain.

I would for sure make sure the chain is properly adjusted. keep in mind you always have to adjust using the tightest spot in the chain, and there is always a tight spot.

I have adjusted my chain twice in the last 1000 miles or so. The chain has about 3100 miles on it. I guess I just don't understand how to find the tight point. I've tried, and it all seems the same as I spin it. Should the bike tire be on the floor while I search, or on the rear stand? Thanks for any explanation.
 

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It won't matter if the tire is touching or not when looking for the tight spot. It's just much easier to do it with a rear stand as you can easily spin the rear tire. It's the easiest way to do it by yourself.

If you put it on a rear stand, and lay on the ground while you SLOWLY spin the rear tire through it's rotation, look at the bottom run of the chain. It will move up and down a bit. The part where it is the highest in the run is the tight spot.

It far less noticeable in a newer chain, as nothing has stretched yet. There really is not a "Tight" spot in the chain per say, just that all the other parts of the chain have stretched more than this spot. So it becomes more and more obvious as the miles add up.

It is super important to check and change chain slack base on this tight spot. The minimum slack should always be achieved with this tight spot, and not with the looser part of the chain.

When a chain is new this will be harder to find/see, but by 10,000 miles it will be very noticeable.

A tight chain is much worse than a loose chain. If you have to choose, choose on the side of loose.
 

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Keep in mind, theres a good chance that noise is annoying, but 100% ok and woudl never hurt anything. We actually have a lot of rear suspension travel, compared to the old days. That means the distance will change between the sprockets.

Look at a modern dirt bike. You'll see the chain just hanging there...but, as the suspension moves throguh its arc, it will get to the point where the sprockets are farther apart, and you cant have "too tight" RIGHT there.

They'll use guides and rollers to protect parts, but the chain just flops around. On my yz 250, the correct spec is 3 inches of play...and 3.5 is better.
 

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It won't matter if the tire is touching or not when looking for the tight spot. It's just much easier to do it with a rear stand as you can easily spin the rear tire. It's the easiest way to do it by yourself.

If you put it on a rear stand, and lay on the ground while you SLOWLY spin the rear tire through it's rotation, look at the bottom run of the chain. It will move up and down a bit. The part where it is the highest in the run is the tight spot.

It far less noticeable in a newer chain, as nothing has stretched yet. There really is not a "Tight" spot in the chain per say, just that all the other parts of the chain have stretched more than this spot. So it becomes more and more obvious as the miles add up.

It is super important to check and change chain slack base on this tight spot. The minimum slack should always be achieved with this tight spot, and not with the looser part of the chain.

When a chain is new this will be harder to find/see, but by 10,000 miles it will be very noticeable.





A tight chain is much worse than a loose chain. If you have to choose, choose on the side of loose.



Thanks Man and RC

I picked up a couple of good insights
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I hope you understand I was trying to be funny Boss. I don't think you are daft enough to try to hear a moving chain :) I was trying to be a smart Butt.

Sorry. I guess it was not funny. I tried.

Nah, it's all good man. I had it tightened today and the noise is GONE. I'm psyched that I was able to get this resolved. Thanks all for your .02



I am off to post about another noise, coming from the front of my bike, by the tree/gauge area....
 

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Nah, it's all good man. I had it tightened today and the noise is GONE. I'm psyched that I was able to get this resolved. Thanks all for your .02

��
Nice, check your maintenance schedules in your owner or service manual. You're supposed to check slack every so often, and occasionally perform a chain wear inspection (they are different things...believe it or not), among other very important things. Hopefully this was a wakeup call. Do not skip maintenance like people tend to do on cars, unfortunately. Something goes wrong on your bike, maybe some suspension bolt or something goes loose on ya it'll make for a really bad day.
 

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Nice, check your maintenance schedules in your owner or service manual. You're supposed to check slack every so often, and occasionally perform a chain wear inspection (they are different things...believe it or not), among other very important things. Hopefully this was a wakeup call. Do not skip maintenance like people tend to do on cars, unfortunately. Something goes wrong on your bike, maybe some suspension bolt or something goes loose on ya it'll make for a really bad day.
Vic, that may be the problem with modern motorcycles. In the old days, you better do your maintenance, or you walked home. Now?

LOTS of things are optional. Where the bike is probably 90% better (suspension, brakes) The chain might be 10% better.
 

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Vic, that may be the problem with modern motorcycles. In the old days, you better do your maintenance, or you walked home. Now?

LOTS of things are optional. Where the bike is probably 90% better (suspension, brakes) The chain might be 10% better.
I don't really see any difference in quality from the 90s and 2000s. I include those as the modern motorcycling paradigm. Electrics might usher in a new paradigm, maybe we're ending that period of time.

I've performed 2 bolt tightening inspections on my 14 and have found bolts that were loose both times. The 600 mile bolt inspection, I expected to find bolts as the parts of the bike settled in with each other. But having found loose bolts on the second inspection (end of year), this bike's got way more loose bolt issues than my VF1000 had. Whether it's Honda vs. Kaw, or V4 vs. I4 I have no idea, that's just the case though. Heck one of the last times I rode, I noticed the front brake reservoir bouncing around, the mounting bolt had come loose. it's not on Kaw's list, but they'll be on mine from now on.
 

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I don't really see any difference in quality from the 90s and 2000s. I include those as the modern motorcycling paradigm. Electrics might usher in a new paradigm, maybe we're ending that period of time.

I've performed 2 bolt tightening inspections on my 14 and have found bolts that were loose both times. The 600 mile bolt inspection, I expected to find bolts as the parts of the bike settled in with each other. But having found loose bolts on the second inspection (end of year), this bike's got way more loose bolt issues than my VF1000 had. Whether it's Honda vs. Kaw, or V4 vs. I4 I have no idea, that's just the case though. Heck one of the last times I rode, I noticed the front brake reservoir bouncing around, the mounting bolt had come loose. it's not on Kaw's list, but they'll be on mine from now on.
It would be amazingly difficult for me to ride well thinking like this. I don't fault Vic for it, I actually think the same way about carnival or amusement park rides. I just never feel safe on them. I do not enjoy it at all. i don't think about this stuff when i am riding, but to be honest I have built most of my bikes.
 

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I don't really see any difference in quality from the 90s and 2000s. I include those as the modern motorcycling paradigm. Electrics might usher in a new paradigm, maybe we're ending that period of time.

I've performed 2 bolt tightening inspections on my 14 and have found bolts that were loose both times. The 600 mile bolt inspection, I expected to find bolts as the parts of the bike settled in with each other. But having found loose bolts on the second inspection (end of year), this bike's got way more loose bolt issues than my VF1000 had. Whether it's Honda vs. Kaw, or V4 vs. I4 I have no idea, that's just the case though. Heck one of the last times I rode, I noticed the front brake reservoir bouncing around, the mounting bolt had come loose. it's not on Kaw's list, but they'll be on mine from now on.
The vfr was an amazing bike. Honda's masterpiece. They learned from the mistakes on the 750 and fixed them for the 100 version. Notice how it was only 250'cc larger, yet 60lbs heavier. They made it indestructible. If you go back to something like my 79 xs 11, you'd see some real dog poo. You could not touch a fastener on it without it braking or rusting.
 

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Sorry, should have been "That is the chain making noise, Boss".
You have been warned. Miss another comma and you could end up in a coma - Grammar Nazi. :blackeye:

That IS humour - or my take on it.
 

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If it's a low speed noise, and you think it might be the chain, why not put it on a paddock stand, start it, put in first and let it run while you inspect/listen to the chain ...?
 

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You have been warned. Miss another comma and you could end up in a coma - Grammar Nazi. :blackeye:

That IS humour - or my take on it.
thats funny :) Look I live in Oklahoma, that I even know what a comma is puts me above average here :)
 

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It might be the rattling of the rear seat plastic against the taillight. That makes a bunch of noise on my bike. Push down on the plastic atop the tail and you will see how much space there is there. This bike vibrates more then most bikes ( I think), and that space definitely makes noise around 20mph.
I recently got a 99 ZRX 1100 and whenever I hit a bump I hear that stuff rattling. I wiggles a lot but I can't find anything that needs tightened. Have you found any way to tighten that up?
 

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I recently got a 99 ZRX 1100 and whenever I hit a bump I hear that stuff rattling. I wiggles a lot but I can't find anything that needs tightened. Have you found any way to tighten that up?
Hi. Welcome onboard. This thread is six years old and Blob hasn't been here for five years - it's unlikely you will get a reply.

Try creating a new thread so some other members can chime in.
 

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Hi. Welcome onboard. This thread is six years old and Blob hasn't been here for five years - it's unlikely you will get a reply.

Try creating a new thread so some other members can chime in.
Haha yeah thanks. You replied though which was a surprise. Thanks.
 
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