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Discussion Starter #1
From what is on the Holeshot web page and what Tom posted as results from his dyno run with the FactoryPro kit, the results look very similiar.

What I am trying to figure out is a $ issue.

Holeshot gives you 4 #110 jets, shims and the K&N filter for $94.

FactoryPro gives you basically a complete carb rebuild ( jets, springs, needles, shims, screws, etc...), but no filter for $109. The filter costs $46.00, so a total of $153.

If the end performance result is the same, why the extra $59 for parts I don't need?

Is it just the idea that FactoryPro's kit is including parts with better quality/longevity over OEM? If so, are we talking getting me past 50k miles, 75k miles???

To go a step further, buying the jets, filter and shims separately you only spend $75. That gets me some chain wax (I'm a die hard WD-40 guy, but figured I would show conformity!!)

I know lots of board members have either the Holsehot or FactoryPro kit, but I doubt someone has tried both. Any thoughts are appreciated.
 

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The Commander
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Here are my thoughts:

Holeshot - Dale Walker is a professional racer an tuner. He is focused on the results only. He found the combination of larger jets and shims improved the throttle response and maximized the power output. Period. He combined this with a K&N filter, offered it as a package, and voila!

FactoryPro - They are a product company. They probably did more research and engineering and came up with a kit that contains all new parts. Do you need all new parts?? No. It's probably over-engineered, but that what product companies do. It's a much more professional package than Holeshot's bare-bones package. The results are the same.

Homemade - Now that Holeshot and Factory have done the research, we know what works best. You need slightly larger mains, higher needles, high flow filter and a high flow exhaust to get max power. You can buy the parts yourself and save money. The results are again the same.

So it just depends on what you're comfortable with. Don't expect any different results for any of the three. None is better than the other. Cost is different, and quality of engineering is different, but bottom line results are the same.
 

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I just received Factorypro jet kit and I'm getting my act together for installing it. My printer is buzzing away on Jarel's jet kit installation guidelines (Thanks Jarel)

One question: Almost everybody talks about a bigger main jet, going from the stock #108 to a larger #110 jet. The Factorypro kit has three choices for main jets: #100, 102, and 105. The kit contains all three. Why are their jets smaller than stock???

kelly
 

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Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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Hi Kelly,

I could be wrong because I've read so much info in the last
2 months but I tink the factorypro kit comes with new metering
rods also which are thinner/shorter/more tapered than the stock
ones which allows them to flow more gas through the smaller jets
supplied with the kit.
If any of the technical wizards disagree feel free to correct me. :)

JonF
 

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I think you're right, just wanted to make sure with the "technical wizards". The Factorypro kit gives you:

4 size #38 pilot jets (#25 stock)
4 needles, with needle clips and shims
4 slide springs
4 #100 main jets
4 #102 main jets
4 #105 main jets

The pilot jets and new needles must compensate for the need for a bigger main jet. Any thoughts?

kelly
 

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Johnny Blue Lightnin'
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Thats alot of tuning combinations! Does it come with detailed instructions about which combinations to use with whatever other
mods you have or may do? (like street or race pipes,air box & air
filter mods,etc...)
After I get through my break in period (or maybe sooner) I want to rejet & install my K&N filter so I'm gathering info.

JonF
 

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Yes. That's a lot of potential combinations. More than I would like actually. Factorypro suggests that the user do a lot of investigating during the installation process, which means, you put it all back together and apart several times to select the best setup for you.

However, they do recommend the #105 main jet with a K&N filter and a"competition exhaust", which I guess my straight thru Kerker can would qualify for. They recommend the #102 with K&N and stock exhaust. They don't say it, but I'm guessing a #100 with stock air filter and stock exhaust.

The needle position is variable, but they recommend the #3 position.

I'll post the results. It's supposed to rain this weekend, so I may try to tackle it. But I have no idea where the pilot jets go. Looking for a carbs for dummies site on the internet.

kelly
 

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I got the whole thing done this weekend. The results are, well, sort of disappointing. No real noticable improvement in acceleration like I was expecting. No wheelies in first yet.

The recommended 3 turns out on the mixture screws was WAY too rich. The bike gurgled and backfired like crazy. I came right home from the test drive and set the screws to 2 turns out instead of 3. It's a little better, but not great. MY GOD!.... WHAT HAVE I DONE?

I called Factorypro and they said sometimes it takes up to 5 assemblies/disassemblies to "dial it in". And I'm thinking, what the hell am I, an R&D section? I thought you guys figured all that out already!

Yes, I did everything just like they said. Anybody else with Factorypro jet kit installed out there? I'll call them tomorrow to talk this out with them. I don't mean to dis Factorypro. The stuff really is good quality. But I'm confused......

:mecry:
 

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Dirty Harry.... Moderator
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Hey Kelly, my bike is currently with my trusted mechanic (Pat) who is installing my jet kit for me (I'm not steady enough to work on carbs). I purchased the Dynojet kit for him to install -- so I'll let you know the results this weekend. I have already installed a Yoshi round race can and a K&N filter, so I'm hoping for good results -- but I have to say my ZR runs very damn good anyway. Tom
 

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Mine ran good as well with just the Kerker and K&N. But I was looking for your "scalded *** ape" or "the tail's on fire" type of "front wheel in the air banshee 'busa" transformation.

I was very particular about the carb work so I know it's right. I know I'll get the whole system right eventually. Just looking for tips from anybody else with the factory kit. I think desertwolf had one.

I pegged it in first and expected the front end to come up, but it just floated a little, just like it did with the stock set-up. booo.
 

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Suprise

To my great surprise, I discovered my new D&D pipe resolved all the issues I thought the jet kit was needed for. While the D&D was $249 delivered, 15 Minutes later I had better throttle response, zero hesitation, and a much happier bike at 6000+ rpm, which is where all its power is anyways. Plus, people notice me sooner. Not to mention 1/2 choke instant cold start and a 30 second warm up before a smooth no choke ride. As for noise level, I wear a Nolan Convertible helmet, it was already a noisy ride. Well worth it.

I'm actually thinking of selling the Factory Pro kit, sounds lot a large pain in the *** for negligable results. Still in the wrapper if anyone's interested. I'll probably just richen it up a bit and kill the EGR.
 

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OK guyz...

It is highly reccomended that you remove the EGR when installing the Factory pro T 1.0 kit.make sure your vaccum lines are lugged so you dont get any junk (or just remove them altogether.)

Also, just a case in point....

Remember when you are dealing with 4 diffrent carbs, if you dont synch your carbs, even if you do have the reccomended settings , it will still run like poop!

As for no wheelies in first gear... just ask martin.. :)o


Be back in 3 months....
 

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Dirty Harry.... Moderator
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Chris Mundell said:
Tom-

Cut to the chase and rip the EGR off while your at it. It makes a prety big difference!!!

Chirs
That is my next step Chris. I got a call from Pat the mechanic who installed the jet kit for me and synched the carbs. He said the bike runs "very good" and removing the EGR would be a good idea. He also asked me if there was a thread on this forum re: modifying the air box, but I couldn't remember one. Tom
 

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The Commander
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The airbox doesn't seem to need much of a mod with a slip-on and jet kit. Holeshot recommends drilling two 1/2" holes in the top of the airbox lid right above the runner tubes. You can alternately remove the white prefilter from the airbox instead of drilling the holes (that's what I finally settled on). If you were at a very high elevation, you might get away with just removing the top of the airbox. I tried that (at 1000 ft.) and it was WAAAYYYY lean, so I put the lid back on.
 

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My carbs and jetting are still a "work in progress" to get it just right. I'll be synching the carbs and playing with the air/fuel mixture screws here shortly. I'm going to take off the EGR, but my inspection is due next month so I'll keep it on for a few more weeks.

But this morning I was sitting behind a sport bike at a stop light. We both got on it when the light turned green (not dropping the clutch or anything like that), and within a second or my front end is reachin for the sky! WOOOO FRIGGIN HOOOO!

That never happened before. Squiddly, I know. I like it. :)

kelly
 

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kelly said:
I'm going to take off the EGR, but my inspection is due next month so I'll keep it on for a few more weeks.
Do you think they would even notice??? Most bike shops around here hardly look at the bike when doing an inspection. In fact I know of one place that I can go and they will just pull it in and change the sticker.

I'm not saying it'a good thing. It could be VERY bad for them law suit wise if somthing they passed ever came back to haunt them after a crash. Not to mention BAD for the poor guy who thought he was being "taken care of". Not everyone does their own maintence, or even changes their own oil for that matter.

I just don't think that most of the "kids" that I see turning a wrench at a bike shop would even notice the EGR being gone on a ZR-7. Esepecially if you connect the two nipples with a vacume hose :D

Chris
 

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Chris- You're probably right. I'll just do it, like the Nike commercial says. Does a regular old inspection garage do bikes or do you have to go to a bike dealer? If it's a regular garage, they probably will never notice.

I'm still playing with the carbs with a Factory jet kit. There is really no comparison with other jet kits because of the pilot jet replacement. The main jets actually reduced in size to #105 instead of increasing to #110 like other jet kits. The idle mixture screws is what I'm stil playing with. It looks like the optimum might be about one half turn out instead of 3 turns out like other jet kits call for.

I don't know at this point. I have the screws at 1-1/2 turns out and it still seems like it's rich as hell. But I haven 't removed the EGR and synched the carbs yet. Lots of loading up and backfiring below 4K RPM. Above that, it's great. Much better than stock. Updates to come when it stops raining...

kelly
 
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