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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When my bike has been sitting for a few days or sometimes just overnight, when I put it into first gear it jerks pretty violently sometimes killing the bike. Ive tried squeezing the clutch a few time or starting it in gear with the clutch pulled. When I do that the bike will jerk forward as the engine cranks. Has anyone else run into this? I use Kawasaki 10w40 just like the factory and have just over 7k miles on the bike.
 

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It happens, the clutch plates stick together. Best way to break them loose is: put the bike in gear, pull in the clutch and rock the bike until they break loose. Then start the bike. Next oil change try using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic. Most Walmarts carry it. The clutch plates should stop sticking.
 

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Pretty Common with the wet clutches..Try 5W?

FYI-Did you get an invite to MOKANIA Meanstreak Facebook Page? Dedicated to Missouri-Kansas-Iowa MS riders..All states welcome actually. It's a page for MS riders to swap tech stuff and arrange rides, rallies and meet-ups.
 

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The plates on these meanies are a special paper compression design, like the ones used on race bikes. They are made to hookup real good when you get off the line. Ice-cold oil in the crank can cause your stiction until the oil is loosened up and warmer. So.....always, start and warm your motor in neutral!! I use Torco 10/40 t-4 racing oil with MPZ moly real slick stuff and worth the 9 bucks a quart. some synthetic oils are very slick too as mentioned elswhere in this thread. Another thing I would check is your clutch...starting on top with the master cylinder, make sure you after pulling the top off, you have the right amount of fluid in it and another thing, you may have air in the line which could cause the clutch to not disengage fully, you may need to go down to the bottom and open it up, bleed it out, and run new fluid through it as it is absolutely mandatory that you have full pressure in the system, hydraulic clutches don't have the adjustability that a cable clutch does. If your clutch lever starts to engage just off the grip, then you have a pressure problem and i would check into it. A fully pressurized clutch won't start to engage until the lever is off the grip significantly.
 

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Definitely check your clutch as mentioned. Aside from the 'it can happen' part, I've got about 20k more miles I've put on my bike than you have on yours and I've never experienced that issue before. And living in rainy western wa my bike has definitely sat for lengthy periods.
 

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My bike jumps a little if I don't squeeze the clutch a couple times before taking off. My 01 800 vulcan did it a little worse, but I didnt know of the "working the clutch" then.
 

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Either do like Billy Bobby said and rock the bike to break the plates apart or if you start it in neutral, pull the clutch in and blip the throttle a couple of times (lightly) before putting into gear both things will work to separate the sticking clutch plates.
 

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The plates on these meanies are a special paper compression design, like the ones used on race bikes. They are made to hookup real good when you get off the line.
I have no idea why you think MS clutch plates are anything special. They're common with the 1500/1600 Nomads and Classics and the old Drifter and also happen to be used in the VN2000's and the new 1700's.

Another thing I would check is your clutch...starting on top with the master cylinder, make sure you after pulling the top off, you have the right amount of fluid in it and another thing, you may have air in the line which could cause the clutch to not disengage fully, you may need to go down to the bottom and open it up, bleed it out, and run new fluid through it as it is absolutely mandatory that you have full pressure in the system, hydraulic clutches don't have the adjustability that a cable clutch does. If your clutch lever starts to engage just off the grip, then you have a pressure problem and i would check into it. A fully pressurized clutch won't start to engage until the lever is off the grip significantly.
You can dig into/check the clutch mechanicals/hydraulics all you want but if there was an issue it wouldn't show up on just the first cold start, you'd have a consistent problem. Plates can stick. They tend to stick more with some oils than others. It's a wet clutch, that's just how it is. You wouldn't expect "Kawasaki brand oil" to be one that's more "stick prone" but what they're selling was supplied by the lowest bidder that met Kawasaki's minimum specs. There's better stuff out there. Ya pays your money and takes your chances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, I will try rocking the bike for now and switch oils when its time for a change. I have only been using Kawi oil because the bike was under warranty.
 

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Thanks guys, I will try rocking the bike for now and switch oils when its time for a change. I have only been using Kawi oil because the bike was under warranty.
I had a similar problem when I started the bike for the first time after it sat all winter. Mine was actually a little more severe than yours in the sense that even with the clutch pulled all the way in the bike would stall out completely (or take off had I not had my hand on the brake). I had to sit on the bike and rock it back and forth with the clutch pulled in until it would release. That was a first for me in the 3 + years since I have owned the bike. And just as an FYI my bike currently has Amsoil in it.

Chris
 

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I didn't mean to say that the clutch plates are anything special, other than that they being composed like they are, makes 'em more rugged and durable, they can take more abuse than other compositions. Kawasaki in my experience has always had tough clutches in their bikes that hold up well.
 

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It happens, the clutch plates stick together. Best way to break them loose is: put the bike in gear, pull in the clutch and rock the bike until they break loose. Then start the bike. Next oil change try using Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic. Most Walmarts carry it. The clutch plates should stop sticking.
How can you tell it broke loose
 

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How can you tell it broke loose
Your bike will act like it has a working clutch again. The clutch may still drag some (not fully disengage when you pull the clutch handle) so be sure to hold your front brake when you put the bike in gear. Otherwise you may launch (wheelie) even with the clutch pulled in.
Cheers!
 
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