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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, either I'm dumb or there's a special way to put on the clutch cover. For the past 2 hours i have been having trouble. i have been able to put it on but i cant swing it around and there's no tension in the clutch lever at all.

As you can see in the video when i move the thing to the right it doesn't go and it sounds as if the push-rod is blocking it. https://vid.me/WRwe
 

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I wish I could show you as its very easy, BUT......

The diagram does not help much, but notice how the inner push rod has a groove on it.

That outer arm has to grab the pushrod inside as it slides in place.

So, over rotate that outer arm...backwards compared to clutch movement. Experiment with how far. Theres a sweet spot. As you start pressing the cover on, the arm will hit the inner rod.

When this happens, as soon as it makes contact, rotate the arm forwards, slowly. At some point it will lock to that inner rod. Continue rotating forward and it will suck the side cover in place.

No need for force, just experiment with the thought you must make the two connect.
 
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Could you try removing the clutch release shaft from the clutch cover -- then install the clutch cover into the bike -- then carefully insert/install the clutch release shaft into the clutch cover? It should work. :)

EDIT: Yep, no need to use force. Everything should go into place with ease. Torque the clutch cover bolts to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I played around with it today again, when i try to put the cover on with no springs it works fine. Now when i put the springs back it stops working again. No matter how tight i make them.

What gives?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure if this will help... its out of the manual for the '12 650

clutch removal
I've already seen this, what people don't get is there's only one way to put the actuator arm in the clutch cover and it's simple. My problem is when the springs are installed and i put the actuator arm it does not have any tension and i cant move it to the right.

Can not torqued to specs springs cause this problem?
 

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The springs have to be tightened until the bolts stop. You cant leave the five bolts with any more room to move. The torque setting is not high, but they bottom out in their holes, or will feel like they come to a complete stop.

Notice how exact the arm and rod have to be. The distance the arm separates the clutch pack is not much, so it all has to be perfect.

If the rod is not out far enough for the arm to grab, I'd look for a missing spacer or washer.

If the rod is not setting out far enough, something has to be missing. Your pressure plate is towards the center of the bike a little too much.

All the springs do (for now) is suck it all together. SO, if you can make it connect, without springs, this tells you the entire assembly is sitting too close to the machines center line.

Missing plate? Missing washer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The springs have to be tightened until the bolts stop. You cant leave the five bolts with any more room to move. The torque setting is not high, but they bottom out in their holes, or will feel like they come to a complete stop.

Notice how exact the arm and rod have to be. The distance the arm separates the clutch pack is not much, so it all has to be perfect.

If the rod is not out far enough for the arm to grab, I'd look for a missing spacer or washer.

If the rod is not setting out far enough, something has to be missing. Your pressure plate is towards the center of the bike a little too much.

All the springs do (for now) is suck it all together. SO, if you can make it connect, without springs, this tells you the entire assembly is sitting too close to the machines center line.

Missing plate? Missing washer?
I cant seem to find any faults, no missing washers, plates or anything else. I also took photos of the setup t make sure everything is how it goes in.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

And video with no Springs installed (it works flawless); https://vid.me/XAd5

:confuse:
 

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I cant seem to find any faults, no missing washers, plates or anything else. I also took photos of the setup t make sure everything is how it goes in.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

And video with no Springs installed (it works flawless); https://vid.me/XAd5

:confuse:
Perhaps you could give us a little background story. What year/model is your bike (looks like MY2015 with ABS)? How many miles on your ODO? What exactly happened to your bike that necessitated opening the clutch cover (replace OEM springs, replace clutch pack, replace clutch hub, install slipper clutch)?

It's difficult to prescribe proper medication without proper diagnosis (or proper prognosis), right Oz (the forum's resident love doctor)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Perhaps you could give us a little background story. What year/model is your bike (looks like MY2015 with ABS)? How many miles on your ODO? What exactly happened to your bike that necessitated opening the clutch cover (replace OEM springs, replace clutch pack, replace clutch hub, install slipper clutch)?

It's difficult to prescribe proper medication without proper diagnosis (or proper prognosis), right Oz (the forum's resident love doctor)?
15 abs ER6F.

Only thing changed are the springs, and they were changed months ago. I opened it up to inspect the clutch plates since i wanted to purchase some new Kevlar ones if i remember correctly and didn't want to waste money if they were perfectly fine which they are even after 15k km's.
 

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So, something changed. That rod, for whatever reason, it not sitting oit far enough with the springs in place,

This can be related to stack height.

My guess is this. Under the pressure plate sits a thrust washer. This washer always sticks to the inside of the pressire plate when its removed. As you walk across the room, it falls out and you dont notice it missing.


i cant link from my phone, im too dumb. Look at the oem clutch diagram and see if thrust bearing number 92045 1235 is missing, or some washer that is letting the rod not poke far enough oit of the case for the arm to grab

Its close. Its within a mm, or so, based on the fact you can do this with no springs attached.
 

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So, something changed. That rod, for whatever reason, it not sitting oit far enough with the springs in place,

This can be related to stack height.

My guess is this. Under the pressure plate sits a thrust washer. This washer always sticks to the inside of the pressire plate when its removed. As you walk across the room, it falls out and you dont notice it missing.


i cant link from my phone, im too dumb. Look at the oem clutch diagram and see if thrust bearing number 92045 1235 is missing, or some washer that is letting the rod not poke far enough oit of the case for the arm to grab

Its close. Its within a mm, or so, based on the fact you can do this with no springs attached.
Hey RC, it looks like the bearing (p/n 92045-1235) is intact (see pic below). If OP didn't remove the clutch hub, then the clutch hub washers should still be in place.

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Hey Kwakka, there's something I'd like you to try. Try to remove the first friction plate and first steel plate then install the clutch pusher, bearing, spring plate, clutch springs, clutch spring bolts and washers, clutch cover, and clutch cover bolts. This is to rule out the clutch friction/steel plates stack height issue (simulating worn out clutch friction plates -- worst case scenario). This will also push the clutch pusher snug against the drive shaft. Don't forget to torque the clutch springs bolts to spec (9.8Nm) and the clutch cover bolts (also 9.8Nm). Again, no need to use force. Then report back the results.

EDIT: Btw, I noted in your very first post that you attempted to install the clutch cover and clutch release shaft -- without the clutch cover bolts. Perhaps, this might be the reason the release shaft doesn't latch onto the clutch pusher. These wouldn't latch onto each other, even if you're just a millimeter off. Just a thought. Or maybe the background music is interfering with the stack height thingy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey RC, it looks like the bearing (p/n 92045-1235) is intact (see pic below). If OP didn't remove the clutch hub, then the clutch hub washers should still be in place.

View attachment 89943

Hey Kwakka, there's something I'd like you to try. Try to remove the first friction plate and first steel plate then install the clutch pusher, bearing, spring plate, clutch springs, clutch spring bolts and washers, clutch cover, and clutch cover bolts. This is to rule out the clutch friction/steel plates stack height issue (simulating worn out clutch friction plates -- worst case scenario). This will also push the clutch pusher snug against the drive shaft. Don't forget to torque the clutch springs bolts to spec (9.8Nm) and the clutch cover bolts (also 9.8Nm). Again, no need to use force. Then report back the results.

EDIT: Btw, I noted in your very first post that you attempted to install the clutch cover and clutch release shaft -- without the clutch cover bolts. Perhaps, this might be the reason the release shaft doesn't latch onto the clutch pusher. These wouldn't latch onto each other, even if you're just a millimeter off. Just a thought. Or maybe the background music is interfering with the stack height thingy. :)

Just tried it without the first steel and fiber plate. Still won't work.
 

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Just tried it without the first steel and fiber plate. Still won't work.
Ok, good good. We can now rule out the stack height thingy. We can also rule out the clutch pusher being too far out (see C in pic below) -- otherwise, you won't be able to stick in the clutch release shaft.

Assuming the clutch pusher (p/n 13116-0035) is not bent and is snug against the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) with the springs installed, and the clutch cover is not deformed; then it is possible that the clutch pusher is too far in (see D in pic below). As such, the clutch release shaft is grabbing the clutch pusher's head instead of its neck. You can confirm this by putting a temporary washer (maybe 3mm thick washer -- see E in pic below) between the clutch pusher and the driveshaft (transmission input shaft). With the temporary washer in place, everything should be fine. Try it.

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Fingers crossed, I hope I'm wrong. Because if I'm right, everything is NOT fine -- the above (too far in) means that your driveshaft (transmission input shaft) is out of spec causing the clutch pusher to be too far in. If so, it's an expensive fix.

Just a suggestion, perhaps it would be prudent to bring the bike to the stealer and have it checked. Again, it's probably just the background music. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, good good. We can now rule out the stack height thingy. We can also rule out the clutch pusher being too far out (see C in pic below) -- otherwise, you won't be able to stick in the clutch release shaft.

Assuming the clutch pusher (p/n 13116-0035) is not bent and is snug against the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) with the springs installed, and the clutch cover is not deformed; then it is possible that the clutch pusher is too far in (see D in pic below). As such, the clutch release shaft is grabbing the clutch pusher's head instead of its neck. You can confirm this by putting a temporary washer (maybe 3mm thick washer -- see E in pic below) between the clutch pusher and the driveshaft (transmission input shaft). With the temporary washer in place, everything should be fine. Try it.

View attachment 89946

Fingers crossed, I hope I'm wrong. Because if I'm right, everything is NOT fine -- the above (too far in) means that your driveshaft (transmission input shaft) is out of spec causing the clutch pusher to be too far in. If so, it's an expensive fix.

Just a suggestion, perhaps it would be prudent to bring the bike to the stealer and have it checked. Again, it's probably just the background music. :)
I'll have to buy a washer, i also contacted my mechanic who also picks up bikes to take a look at it but hes currently on holiday somewhere and will be back very soon. Probably in the next few days and wanted his opinion if i should send it back to the dealers. Also how does something like this even happen? Everything on the bike is stock, and the only thing changed is the clutch springs.

Also wouldn't something like this be under warranty?
 

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Please Forgive my ignorance for this question. Does it matter what gear your in? Do you need to be in Neutral?
Hmmm, the knee bone is connected to the thigh bone, so yes, the crankshaft is connected to the clutch basket and is connected to the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) and is connected to the gear dogs (neutral, 1 to 6) and is connected to the transmission output shaft and is connected to the front sprocket and is connected to the rear sprocket and is connected to the drive chain and is connected to the rear tire. I think. Perhaps, OP could also try shifting the gear up and down to wiggle the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) into its proper place. Good call Jeep. :)

I'll have to buy a washer, i also contacted my mechanic who also picks up bikes to take a look at it but hes currently on holiday somewhere and will be back very soon. Probably in the next few days and wanted his opinion if i should send it back to the dealers. Also how does something like this even happen? Everything on the bike is stock, and the only thing changed is the clutch springs.

Also wouldn't something like this be under warranty?
Here in Manila, you void the warranty whenever you open the clutch cover -- you also void the warranty for headlights, alternator, ECU, tires, etc. :)

What's your 10-20 (location) good buddy? Are we in the same time zone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hmmm, the knee bone is connected to the thigh bone, so yes, the crankshaft is connected to the clutch basket and is connected to the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) and is connected to the gear dogs (neutral, 1 to 6) and is connected to the transmission output shaft and is connected to the front sprocket and is connected to the rear sprocket and is connected to the drive chain and is connected to the rear tire. I think. Perhaps, OP could also try shifting the gear up and down to wiggle the driveshaft (transmission input shaft) into its proper place. Good call Jeep. :)



Here in Manila, you void the warranty whenever you open the clutch cover -- you also void the warranty for headlights, alternator, ECU, tires, etc. :)

What's your 10-20 (location) good buddy? Are we in the same time zone?
Absolutely no way this is the same in Australia, i can already see if it were such a thing Kawasaki would be bent over by the government here and the bikes thrown out of the country. We do have a lemon law here and my bike was always treated properly and was never once taken on the track. If i cant get warranty done and something is ****ed up in the transmission on it i'll go to the ACCC.

Also i'm in Melbourne.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also i forgot to mention, but don't know if it's worth mentioning but i notice my push-rod moves forward and backward even with the pressure plate and springs installed. I assume this is normal?

I also tried rolling it in the garage being careful not to spill oil, also put it into first gear without a hassle yet the problem remains.
 

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Absolutely no way this is the same in Australia, i can already see if it were such a thing Kawasaki would be bent over by the government here and the bikes thrown out of the country. We do have a lemon law here and my bike was always treated properly and was never once taken on the track. If i cant get warranty done and something is ****ed up in the transmission on it i'll go to the ACCC.

Also i'm in Melbourne.
I dig you mate. I wish I'm in Australia. It's summer there, right? Nice riding weather. :)

Your bike's case is definitely mind boggling. As such, if I were you, I wouldn't touch the bike any further. Let the warranty make its wonders.

Also i forgot to mention, but don't know if it's worth mentioning but i notice my push-rod moves forward and backward even with the pressure plate and springs installed. I assume this is normal?

I also tried rolling it in the garage being careful not to spill oil, also put it into first gear without a hassle yet the problem remains.
With all the friction and steel plates installed, the clutch pusher should have some play (yes, it's normal) -- which is why I suggested to have the first friction/steel plate removed; in so doing, with the clutch pusher snug to the driveshaft, the release shaft should still be able to grab the clutch pusher.
 
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