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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
I can't see your mechanic's homemade air filter working properly. If you are hard up, use motor oil to oil the foam. NOT chain lube. Chain lubes stiffen up so they don't get flung off. I would think chain lube will just clog the filter or quite possibly get sucked into the carbs gumming up the slides. Just a theory. Probably just clog the filter.

Earlier you said you said you had a full tank but was gone by afternoon. Was that from riding it? Or did it leak to the ground?
If neither of those there's only one other place for it to go. In the crank case. Did you sniff the oil in the crank case for a smell of gas yet?

Fuel systems in motorcycles are a finicky thing, especially the carbs. Any change from the way it was designed and it will happily give you headaches forever. Or until it's done right.

I don't mean to sound insulting but that mechanic friend of yours...
Thank you @Zed7! Mechanics here are pretty smart at guessing things. Lols. Even if I go to the dealer, just the same conclusions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I can't see your mechanic's homemade air filter working properly. If you are hard up, use motor oil to oil the foam. NOT chain lube. Chain lubes stiffen up so they don't get flung off. I would think chain lube will just clog the filter or quite possibly get sucked into the carbs gumming up the slides. Just a theory. Probably just clog the filter.

Earlier you said you said you had a full tank but was gone by afternoon. Was that from riding it? Or did it leak to the ground?
If neither of those there's only one other place for it to go. In the crank case. Did you sniff the oil in the crank case for a smell of gas yet?

Fuel systems in motorcycles are a finicky thing, especially the carbs. Any change from the way it was designed and it will happily give you headaches forever. Or until it's done right.

I don't mean to sound insulting but that mechanic friend of yours...
Yes. It was from a ride. From full to empty, full throttle. Though it’s only 110 kms back and forth. A month ago I did the same thing drove about 154kms, but it only costs me 496 pesos, or 9.7 liters. There’s a huge difference. That’s why I’m so much confused why. Is it because of the shims?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
There are many, many chain lubes - if you are talking about what Pinoy call chainlube - then you are talking about 80-90w oil. FAR too thick for an oil filter. That's usually used in car differentials/gearboxes.

Wash the filter in kerosine, gently blow dry with a pressure nozzle or leave in the sun for an hour or two...then add the Yamalube foam airfilter oil - DON'T drown it, just lightly spray all over.



If the oil is two thick it will not allow correct airflow. Use the appropriate filter oil.
What I meant was, you said earlier that the bike was gasping for air while I rev. How should the airfilter help? I think it would choke the bike more and would gasp for more air. Should I cut the foam so there will be enough air or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
There are many, many chain lubes - if you are talking about what Pinoy call chainlube - then you are talking about 80-90w oil. FAR too thick for an oil filter. That's usually used in car differentials/gearboxes.

Wash the filter in kerosine, gently blow dry with a pressure nozzle or leave in the sun for an hour or two...then add the Yamalube foam airfilter oil - DON'T drown it, just lightly spray all over.



If the oil is two thick it will not allow correct airflow. Use the appropriate filter oil.
Noted on the oil filter. Thank you @Ozninjaguy!
 

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What I meant was, you said earlier that the bike was gasping for air while I rev. How should the airfilter help? I think it would choke the bike more and would gasp for more air. Should I cut the foam so there will be enough air or not?
If you cut the foam then you'll let grit into the engine.. which will make matters worse.
If your filter is over oiled, your bike will run extremely rich.

As I said earlier, and this is important.. if you hack anything in the fuel system, especially the carburetors, expect nothing but a poor running bike and headaches such as what you have.
If you were to give me your bike, the first thing I would do is remove the carbs and all associated parts and strip them down and rebuild to spec. No matter how long it takes.
If it's your only mode of transportation then maybe you could buy a beater to get around on until you learn to do it yourself.
It won't suddenly get better by itself, only worse.

I too am a self taught mechanic but I have been working on cars forever. I rebuilt my first car engine when I was fifteen with the help of my father. Motorcycle engines are more of a challenge. Like the difference between working on a clock as opposed to working on a watch.

I understand that you have difficulty getting parts but are you telling me that parts can't get shipped to the Philippines?

Did you sniff the oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
If you cut the foam then you'll let grit into the engine.. which will make matters worse.
If your filter is over oiled, your bike will run extremely rich.

As I said earlier, and this is important.. if you hack anything in the fuel system, especially the carburetors, expect nothing but a poor running bike and headaches such as what you have.
If you were to give me your bike, the first thing I would do is remove the carbs and all associated parts and strip them down and rebuild to spec. No matter how long it takes.
If it's your only mode of transportation then maybe you could buy a beater to get around on until you learn to do it yourself.
It won't suddenly get better by itself, only worse.

I too am a self taught mechanic but I have been working on cars forever. I rebuilt my first car engine when I was fifteen with the help of my father. Motorcycle engines are more of a challenge. Like the difference between working on a clock as opposed to working on a watch.

I understand that you have difficulty getting parts but are you telling me that parts can't get shipped to the Philippines?

Did you sniff the oil?
I have a car tho but I use my bike every often. I fear that once I take off thé carbs I can’t get things right or I will screw things more. I’ll put an oil tomorrow morning. It’s currently raining outside. I’ll smell the oil tomorrow morning @Zed7. So my work tomorrow is to put an oil to the filter and sniff the oil. Have you seen that video @Zed7? The loud bang? It’s not about the filter right?
 

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I have a car tho but I use my bike every often. I fear that once I take off thé carbs I can’t get things right or I will screw things more. I’ll put an oil tomorrow morning. It’s currently raining outside. I’ll smell the oil tomorrow morning @Zed7. So my work tomorrow is to put an oil to the filter and sniff the oil. Have you seen that video @Zed7? The loud bang? It’s not about the filter right?
The loud bang could be a result of gas vapors in the oil igniting.
There is a recent posting here and that is exactly what happened. His oil was mixed with gasoline that has leaked into it.
That has happened to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
The loud bang could be a result of gas vapors in the oil igniting.
There is a recent posting here and that is exactly what happened. His oil was mixed with gasoline that has leaked into it.
That has happened to me.
Noted Zed. I’ll drain the oil? And change na new one? I recently changed oil. Like 2 weeks ago. What oil should I use?
 

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Noted Zed. I’ll drain the oil? And change na new one? I recently changed oil. Like 2 weeks ago. What oil should I use?
Zed7's point is that your oil may have been dilluted/polluted with fuel from your leaking petcock. If you can smell fuel when you remove the oil filler plug - that means - where you fill/top up your oil - you need to take a big sniff (smell it) to see if you can smell gasolene in your crankcase (engine). If you can smell fuel/gasolene, then drain the oil and refill with fresh oil because the oil in your engine is polluted. Just refill with a 20w50 motorcycle oil. It never gets cold enough to run less that 20w in the Philippines, and your bike is too old to be worried about running thinner oils because it doesn't have the lesser tolerances that modern motorcycles have, which require thinner oils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Zed7's point is that your oil may have been dilluted/polluted with fuel from your leaking petcock. If you can smell fuel when you remove the oil filler plug - that means - where you fill/top up your oil - you need to take a big sniff (smell it) to see if you can smell gasolene in your crankcase (engine). If you can smell fuel/gasolene, then drain the oil and refill with fresh oil because the oil in your engine is polluted.
Thank you for all you patience on teaching me @Ozninjaguy and @Zed7! This is a big help on my part. I hope I can repay your help soon. Thank you!

Anyway, noted. I’ll be changing my oil if it’s polluted.
 

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Noted Zed. I’ll drain the oil? And change na new one? I recently changed oil. Like 2 weeks ago. What oil should I use?
No, don't drain the oil. SNIFF the oil through the oil fill hole. If you smell gasoline then you must change it and don't do anything else until you've fixed all the other problems that lead up to that event. But maybe you're ok.

I don't mind helping because it is how I learn as well, as long as you report back. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I'm fussy but you have to be with a motorcycle unless you don't mind being stranded with a broken down motorcycle hundreds of miles from home.
If my bike isn't functioning perfectly in all respects, I won't ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
No, don't drain the oil. SNIFF the oil through the oil fill hole. If you smell gasoline then you must change it and don't do anything else until you've fixed all the other problems that lead up to that event. But maybe you're ok.

I don't mind helping because it is how I learn as well, as long as you report back. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I'm fussy but you have to be with a motorcycle unless you don't mind being stranded with a broken down motorcycle hundreds of miles from home.
If my bike isn't functioning perfectly in all respects, I won't ride it.
It’s morning here and I just checked and sniffed my oil. It does smell gas, even right after I opened it, it smelled gas. Now that I confirmed it has gas? Should I not use the bike? Unless after I changed the oil?
 

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It’s morning here and I just checked and sniffed my oil. It does smell gas, even right after I opened it, it smelled gas. Now that I confirmed it has gas? Should I not use the bike? Unless after I changed the oil?
Don't use it - change the oil. Then look at the other issues that you have, as Zed7 recommended. Maybe changing the petcock has solved that problem, but you also have others.
 

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It’s morning here and I just checked and sniffed my oil. It does smell gas, even right after I opened it, it smelled gas. Now that I confirmed it has gas? Should I not use the bike? Unless after I changed the oil?
No, unfortunately you can NOT use your bike unless you want to destroy the engine from lack of lubrication.
If you change the oil now it will only get contaminated by gas again. Dump it and don't refill until you have fixed all your problems.
It's time to pull the tank...
Change or repair the petcock.
Pull the carbs and rebuild them.
Deal with the carb holders.
None of it is difficult as there's many great YouTube videos on the subject. All you need is a clean work surface such as a kitchen table, proper tools and patience.

And while your at it, have you checked the valve clearances?
Never mind.
 

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Change or repair the petcock.
I believe he said that he has already replaced it with a Vulcan petcock and that it wasn't leaking. That's why I suggested that he replace the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
No, unfortunately you can NOT use your bike unless you want to destroy the engine from lack of lubrication.
If you change the oil now it will only get contaminated by gas again. Dump it and don't refill until you have fixed all your problems.
It's time to pull the tank...
Change or repair the petcock.
Pull the carbs and rebuild them.
Deal with the carb holders.
None of it is difficult as there's many great YouTube videos on the subject. All you need is a clean work surface such as a kitchen table, proper tools and patience.

And while your at it, have you checked the valve clearances?
Never mind.
I did change the petcock yesterday. Rebuilding the carbs, does that mean I need a repair kit? I ordered the repair kit, it didn’t arrive yet. What’s the clearance of the valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Don't use it - change the oil. Then look at the other issues that you have, as Zed7 recommended. Maybe changing the petcock has solved that problem, but you also have others.
When I changed the petcock, there was no leaking. My theory is it was because of the small dirt that blocked the valve needles because the bike was drained of gas since the OLD petcock vacuum wont work at ON, right after It turned off, I switched to PRI and the bike turned on, but the leaking problem appeared. After I changed petcock yesterday, no leaking problem. But I should clean the valves again.
 

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What’s the clearance of the valve?
Valve adjustment, also known as tappet adjustment, is adjusting the clearance (gap) between the rocker arm and the top of the valve. For your bike to perform as designed, you need to regularly check/adjust the valve clearances.

Everything you need to know how to go about it is in the Workshop Manual that I gave you the link to.

I suggest that you find the chapter that covers this procedure, download and print off those pages, so you have a ready reference beside you to guide you through the process.
zr7 valves.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Valve adjustment, also known as tappet adjustment, is adjusting the clearance (gap) between the rocker arm and the top of the valve. For your bike to perform as designed, you need to regularly check/adjust the valve clearances.

Everything you need to know how to go about it is in the Workshop Manual that I gave you the link to.

I suggest that you find the chapter that covers this procedure, download and print off those pages, so you have a ready reference beside you to guide you through the process. View attachment 123157
Wow. That’s an advance repair. I have no knowledge about that. Do you know anyone that know how to repair or check? I’m willing to travel to CDO if ever. Btw, is this shims okay? Or Not?
 

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Wow. That’s an advance repair. I have no knowledge about that. Do you know anyone that know how to repair or check? I’m willing to travel to CDO if ever. Btw, is this shims okay? Or Not?
I can't answer whether the shim kits are the right ones. My comment about rocker arms/tappets is for simple motorcycle engines - I didn't even know that your bike runs shims (meaning no rocker arms/tappets)....I was just trying to explain what valve adjustment/clearance meant.

Also, it's not a repair, it's a continual maintenance procedure.

Go and talk to the mechanic at Normanring Motorbikes Davao - they deal with big bikes. Maybe their mechanic can help you out.

btw - you can easily check the clearances - just follow the procedure in the manual and buy some feeler gauges....and Obo and/or Zed7 can tell you the diameter of the relevant shims and whether the ones you are looking at will fit. Many are interchangeable - for example - my Aprilia shims are the same size as some Suzuki shims, and some Honda models as well.
 
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