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If you are going to a place to buy orings, take the carb holder as well. I can tell you that the brand new OEM oring stood barely proud of the casting. Tell them it for high heat and gasoline.
And mention that fancy sounding rubber "Markez Z1 400" that I researched. I'd be curious to hear what they have to say.
 

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If you are going to a place to buy orings, take the carb holder as well. I can tell you that the brand new OEM oring stood barely proud of the casting. Tell them it for high heat and gasoline.
And mention that fancy sounding rubber "Markez Z1 400" that I researched. I'd be curious to hear what they have to say.
Good advice. This is the company that I have recommended. They should be able to provide something: Simplex Industrial Corporation: Sealing Products
 

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If the boots between the air box and the carbs are loose or damaged then yes you can expect poor running conditions too.
The bike needs a certain amount of back pressure to run well. You would normally see this if you had the cover off your air box and the filter out and were trying to run & rev the bike. It would tend to bog somewhat. Sooooooo, if your boots are bad or mis-seated, and or the air filter bad, this could account for both the hiss you hear and the running issues. I can't say for sure this it the reason or cause, but it's a possibility. Combined with the recent dirty carbs and the issue with the spark plug wire end you can see how a multitude of things can be wrong at the same time which makes it hard to say it's just this or that you need to do to correct things. Plus we are doing this all virtually without ever seeing or touching your bike. Imagine if you had to do all maintenance or repairs that way - with a mechanic over the phone.... still that would be better than doing self surgery over the phone with a doctor. "yes, after you make the incision just carefully remove your appendix....." :)
 

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I turned on the bike and all heats up. But 1,2, and 4 heats up quickly. The 3 heats up but around 5 seconds late compared to the other 3.
Recheck your air/fuel adjustment for that cylinder - if it is slightly richer than the others, it will also run slightly cooler.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Here's an option. I'm sure there's cheaper kits.

Here's another.
If the boots between the air box and the carbs are loose or damaged then yes you can expect poor running conditions too.
The bike needs a certain amount of back pressure to run well. You would normally see this if you had the cover off your air box and the filter out and were trying to run & rev the bike. It would tend to bog somewhat. Sooooooo, if your boots are bad or mis-seated, and or the air filter bad, this could account for both the hiss you hear and the running issues. I can't say for sure this it the reason or cause, but it's a possibility. Combined with the recent dirty carbs and the issue with the spark plug wire end you can see how a multitude of things can be wrong at the same time which makes it hard to say it's just this or that you need to do to correct things. Plus we are doing this all virtually without ever seeing or touching your bike. Imagine if you had to do all maintenance or repairs that way - with a mechanic over the phone.... still that would be better than doing self surgery over the phone with a doctor. "yes, after you make the incision just carefully remove your appendix....." :)
Agreed. Thanks @Ozninjaguy! I checked and it’s properly seated but has a leak. My mechanic also changed the paper filter with the foam, he removed the paper and then replaced it with foam filter. The bikes runs well and it does have loud banging at idle tho. I have no vid yet but here’s another issue. This was just after I filled my tank.

as you can see, I don’t know where the leak problem is. But I think it’s coming from the boot, not the bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Here's an option. I'm sure there's cheaper kits.

Here's another.
@Zed7 Thank you Zed! The o rings are available here but I haven’t taken off the boot yet just to make sure. Thank you so much! I have a gas leak problem tho. Only in number two carb.
 

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Recheck your air/fuel adjustment for that cyclinder - if it is slightly richer than the others, it will also run slightly cooler.
Also, I'm wondering I
@Zed7 Thank you Zed! The o rings are available here but I haven’t taken off the boot yet just to make sure. Thank you so much! I have a gas leak problem tho. Only in number two carb.
Hopefully it's just the bowl gasket. If it's coming from the "boot" (carb holder) that means you've got a leaky petcock and fuel is flowing by the float seat, that's the only way it would do that.
I hate to say it but you must take those carbs out and either find another mechanic or better yet, do it yourself. You can do a fine job if you're careful and watch a few videos first, probably better than your mechanic. Just remember to remove all rubber parts before using carb cleaner. Check for proper jetting while you're in there. Otherwise you're putting good work after bad.
A friend of mine took his bike to a shop to have a "professional" clean his carbs. The guys shop was a mess and the guy was an unshaven slob. After paying the guy $300 bucks, the Katana ran like crap and the carbs leaked like a sieve on the way home. LOL.
This he waited three weeks to have happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Also, I'm wondering I

Hopefully it's just the bowl gasket. If it's coming from the "boot" (carb holder) that means you've got a leaky petcock and fuel is flowing by the float seat, that's the only way it would do that.
I hate to say it but you must take those carbs out and either find another mechanic or better yet, do it yourself. You can do a fine job if you're careful and watch a few videos first, probably better than your mechanic. Just remember to remove all rubber parts before using carb cleaner. Check for proper jetting while you're in there. Otherwise you're putting good work after bad.
A friend of mine took his bike to a shop to have a "professional" clean his carbs. The guys shop was a mess and the guy was an unshaven slob. After paying the guy $300 bucks, the Katana ran like crap and the carbs leaked like a sieve on the way home. LOL.
This he waited three weeks to have happen.
Leaky petcock? Petcock like the one that supplies the carb with fuel? At the tank? What do you mean by the float seat? Is this the float seat?
I’m sorry for the thousand questions @Zed7. I want to fix this carb not with my mechanic. After his clean up, the bike got too many issues. He says it’s because of the age of my bike tho.
 

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I hate to say it but you must take those carbs out and either find another mechanic or better yet, do it yourself. You can do a fine job if you're careful and watch a few videos first, probably better than your mechanic. A friend of mine took his bike to a shop to have a "professional" clean his carbs.
As I said many posts ago - the alleged 'mechanics' in the Philippines are self-taught and only know about underbones.

When I bought my Ninja 250 brand new, I got a nail in the tyre and had to show the dealer's mechanic how to remove the rear wheel.

Then the steering head bearings seized within a few months (weaving at low speed) - I had to DEMAND that they pull the front end apart to see...gee! I was I was right. Ppppfffttt!

I thought that moving here I could just buy a new bike and they would do the appropriate work - no more greasy hands and broken fingernails. Bahahaha!

I went back to trusting someone who knew more that these 'mechanics' - me. Bought a whole new set of tools and have never taken any of my bikes into a shop. So much for retirement....lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
As I said many posts ago - the alleged 'mechanics' in the Philippines are self-taught and only know about underbones.

When I bought my Ninja 250 brand new, I got a nail in the tyre and had to show the dealer's mechanic how to remove the rear wheel.

Then the steering head bearings seized within a few months (weaving at low speed) - I had to DEMAND that they pull the front end apart to see...gee! I was I was right. Ppppfffttt!

I thought that moving here I could just buy a new bike and they would do the appropriate work - no more greasy hands and broken fingernails. Bahahaha!

I went back to trusting someone who knew more that these 'mechanics' - me. Bought a whole new set of tools and have never taken any of my bikes into a shop. So much for retirement....lol.
As I said many posts ago - the alleged 'mechanics' in the Philippines are self-taught and only know about underbones.

When I bought my Ninja 250 brand new, I got a nail in the tyre and had to show the dealer's mechanic how to remove the rear wheel.

Then the steering head bearings seized within a few months (weaving at low speed) - I had to DEMAND that they pull the front end apart to see...gee! I was I was right. Ppppfffttt!

I thought that moving here I could just buy a new bike and they would do the appropriate work - no more greasy hands and broken fingernails. Bahahaha!

I went back to trusting someone who knew more that these 'mechanics' - me. Bought a whole new set of tools and have never taken any of my bikes into a shop. So much for retirement....lol.
I guess I should learn more about my bike so I can maintain it myself haha! It’s still leaking when I turn on my petcock tho. I don’t know why it’s leaking from the boot. I thought it was just the bowl. I had full tank this morning, it’s empty by the afternoon.
 

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I guess I should learn more about my bike so I can maintain it myself haha! It’s still leaking when I turn on my petcock tho. I don’t know why it’s leaking from the boot. I thought it was just the bowl. I had full tank this morning, it’s empty by the afternoon.
Apparently the petcock is a common poblem with these bikes. Obo and Zed7 should be able to advise on what to look for and what to do. Also search for 'Zr-7 petcock' in the search box at the top of the page. There may be a few previous threads about any issues.
 

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Lloyd, remove your oil fill cap and sniff to see if you smell any gas in the oil.
If not do this...
With a full tank of fuel, with the bike turned off, on the centerstand, and the petcock in the 'res' position (or 'on' position if you have a lot of fuel in the tank)...
Remove the fuel hose from the side of the petcock. Some fuel will drip from the hose. Dry off the tube on the side of the petcock with a paper towel then observe for a minute it to see if it drips fuel.
If not, remove the small vacuum line from the back of the fuel petcock to see if there is fuel leaking out the back of the petcock.
Report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
Lloyd, remove your oil fill cap and sniff to see if you smell any gas in the oil.
If not do this...
With a full tank of fuel, with the bike turned off, on the centerstand, and the petcock in the 'res' position (or 'on' position if you have a lot of fuel in the tank)...
Remove the fuel hose from the side of the petcock. Some fuel will drip from the hose. Dry off the tube on the side of the petcock with a paper towel then observe for a minute it to see if it drips fuel.
If not, remove the small vacuum line from the back of the fuel petcock to see if there is fuel leaking out the back of the petcock.
Report back.
Wow @Zed7, you’re right! I tried this and the fuel was dripping fast! I replaced petcock with a new one. Tho it’s from the vulcan petcock since it’s the only available petcock. Also, there’s no overflowing after I changed petcock.
Question: does the exhaust release loud bangs if the carbs are underfed with gas? I’m experiencing loud bangs at idle.
here’s a vid
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Apparently the petcock is a common poblem with these bikes. Obo and Zed7 should be able to advise on what to look for and what to do. Also search for 'Zr-7 petcock' in the search box at the top of the page. There may be a few previous threads about any issues.
Thank you @Ozninjaguy!
 

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Question: does the exhaust release loud bangs if the carbs are underfed with gas? I’m experiencing loud bangs at idle.
You said the mechanic replaced the paper air filter with a foam one. Did he oil it first? If so, what oil did he use? Seems to me that your engine is being starved of air and trying to breathe as you open the throttle.

I know that OEM is a foam filter, but foam filters are very particular about what they are oiled with.

Maybe try putting the paper one back in as a test and see how it goes. Or, if the paper element is no longer available, wash the foam filter and buy some Yamalube Foam Airfilter Oil. Should be available at Davao Yamaha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
You said the mechanic replaced the paper air filter with a foam one. Did he oil it first? If so, what oil did he use? Seems to me that your engine is being starved of air and trying to breathe as you open the throttle.

I know that OEM is a foam filter, but foam filters are very particular about what they are oiled with.

Maybe try putting the paper one back in as a test and see how it goes.
He did not oil it tho. He purposely destroyed and removed the paper on my filter and put the foam there. I have a chain lube though, I searched and say it’s okay to substitute it with air filter oil. If it’s gasping for air, how can the oil help? Or I’ll just buy an air filter oil tomorrow morning.
 

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He did not oil it tho. He purposely destroyed and removed the paper on my filter and put the foam there. I have a chain lube though, I searched and say it’s okay to substitute it with air filter oil. If it’s gasping for air, how can the oil help? Or I’ll just buy an air filter oil tomorrow morning.
I can't see your mechanic's homemade air filter working properly. If you are hard up, use motor oil to oil the foam. NOT chain lube. Chain lubes stiffen up so they don't get flung off. I would think chain lube will just clog the filter or quite possibly get sucked into the carbs gumming up the slides. Just a theory. Probably just clog the filter.

Earlier you said you said you had a full tank but was gone by afternoon. Was that from riding it? Or did it leak to the ground?
If neither of those there's only one other place for it to go. In the crank case. Did you sniff the oil in the crank case for a smell of gas yet?

Fuel systems in motorcycles are a finicky thing, especially the carbs. Any change from the way it was designed and it will happily give you headaches forever. Or until it's done right.

I don't mean to sound insulting but that mechanic friend of yours...
 

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I have a chain lube though, I searched and say it’s okay to substitute it with air filter oil. If it’s gasping for air, how can the oil help?
There are many, many chain lubes - if you are talking about what Pinoy call chainlube - then you are talking about 80-90w oil. FAR too thick for an oil filter. That's usually used in car differentials/gearboxes.

Wash the filter in kerosine, gently blow dry with a pressure nozzle or leave in the sun for an hour or two...then add the Yamalube foam airfilter oil - DON'T drown it, just lightly spray all over.

If it’s gasping for air, how can the oil help?
If the oil is two thick it will not allow correct airflow. Use the appropriate filter oil.
 

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I don't mean to sound insulting but that mechanic friend of yours...
Yeah - now you are getting my point about the 'mechanics' here...lol
 
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