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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This post will show all the steps required to properly install bkmoto.com HID projector headlight kit into the 2008+ Kasawaki Ninja 650R, The new ninja 1000, ER-6f, Z1000SX.

This kit will also work on the New 2012+ 650R, the headlight is slightly redesigned, but the process is exactly the same.

More information on this kit can be found on www.bkmoto.com

The kit will come with everything that you need to install the projectors, including all neccesary H7 adapters and H7 plugs which will plug into your OEM headlight plugs.

You will have both headlights on for low beams, and high beams, with super bright HID's and halo's

This project should take about a full day, or a nice weekend with lots of breaks.

Here is the complete kit:




Lets start!

Remove headlight, remove light bulbs from the headlight



Now, you will need to open your headlight.
To do this you will need to heat up the glue that holds the headlight together.
You have 2 choices, Either use the oven or buy a cheap heat gun (about $25)

Heat gun Method:
Turn on the heat gun on high setting, hold the heat gun about 8" away from the seam and work your way around the headlight seam slowly for a few rounds.

Oven Method:
Preheat the oven to 225F degrees, place the headlight on a towel and into the center of the oven.
Bake the headlight for 8 minutes at 225F degrees, then remove the headlight.

Once headlight is hot, start to open it using flat head screw drivers, carefully open the little tabs that lock the headlight together and pry the headlight open.
If you are struggling, then the glue is not hot enough, as it should be fairly easy to open once the glue is hot.
You might need to reheat the headlight a few times untill the lens is off.





Remove the lens



Heat up the second lens and remove it, you might need to reheat the headlight for a few minutes if it cooled down while you were removing the first lens.



Remove the 3 screws on the back, on both sides of the headlight and remove the hardware





Painting the reflectors:
This step is optional, I opted to paint my reflectors matt black, as i like the blacked out headlight look.
If you plan on leaving the reflectors chrome, then skip this step.

To paint the reflectors you can either remove them and spray paint them or use painters tape to cover the headlight around the reflectors, then spray.

I removed my reflectors, by unscrewing the 2 rear adjustment knobs on the back of the headlight, and then popping the reflector out of the third mounting point.




I used this paint, and it came out great.




Mount reflectors back into the headlight



We are now ready to mount the projectors!



Remove the tiny screw on the back of the projector, which holds the HID bulb, then remove all hardware from the projector, except the big silicone washer.


Here is all the hardware that you need to mount the projectors


Insert projector into the light bulb hole, make sure that the gap on the front halo ring is facing down, this way the projector is properly oriented.



Fish all the wires from the projector, and place the H7 adapter plate





Place the lock washer



Tighten rear nut.
I recommend to use locktite on the rear nut, so it wont come loose from the bikes vibrations.




Your projector is now mounted!



Mount the second projector using the same above steps



Projectors are mounted and we can close up the headlights.
Reheat the glue on the headlight body and lens with the heat gun, then press the headlight together.
Wrap some painters tape around the headlight tightly, and let it cool down for 30mins.

If using oven method, then put the lenses back onto the headlight, press them in lightly, not all the way.
Place headlight on a towel and into the oven at 225F for 5 minutes, remove hot headlight from the oven and press lenses firmly together.
wrap painters take around tightly and let it cool down for 30mins.

Here is the result:




The rubber dust caps need to be slightly modified to fit the new hid bulb rubber seal.
Cut off this piece






Insert HID bulb into the dust cap, and secure the rubber seal





Now we need to fish the two white halo wires and the red/black wires through the remaining two holes on the rubber seal.
The white halo wires wont have a plug on them, but the red/black wires will, and the plug needs to be removed.

To remove the plug, you need to insert a needle or a hair clip into the small opening in the front of the plug just above the pin, and press down untill you get the pin out.
This part is a little tricky, especially the first few times you do it.



here is the pin that you will be removing, look at the little flap in the middle, this is basically what needs to be pushed down inside the plug for the pin to come out.


Once plug is removed, fish the wires through the two holes.


secure the HID bulb in the projector, using the tiny screw that you removed previously
and put the connectors back on the wires.









After you mount the headlight you can adjust the height of the beam with the two rear adjustment knobs.
I recommend simply to adjust them as far down as possible, which is pretty close to what it should be.
Be very careful and do not over spin the adjustment knobs, they are connected to very delicate plastic inserts, and if you strip them you wont be able to adjust them any more,
so if you feel more resistance, then it cant go any more.



Here is the wiring expained:



Wiring without a switch:

1. Connect both White low beam + to Low beam + pigtail
2. Connect both Blue high beam + to high beam + pigtail
3. Connect both Halo red + to corner lights positive wires right halo to right corner light and left to left
4. Connect both Halo black - to corner lights negative wires right halo to right corner light and left to left
5. all other connections self explanatory.

Wiring with a switch:
Same as above, but there is a switch between the low beam + pigtail and the two white low beam + trigger wires






Here is the end result:







 

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reserved #2. i have them on my gixxer. the difference in lighting at night is out of this world
 

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Very nice DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
finished the how-to and included wiring diagrams to wire for both headlights to be on for low beams and high beams using the factory switch and also integrating a small switch to turn off the headlights and ride with just the halos on.
 

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bump
 

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I was looking all over for this in the ninja 1000 3rd gen forum
 

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Is there such thing as maybe Pre-built headlights? Nice halo ones? Anything?
nope. you can send the entire headlight housing to Borka and he'll do everything for you, but you still have to tear the bike apart to get the housings out and put it all back together once he sends it back to you. when i installed his kit, getting the housing apart was the easiest thing to do. the most time consuming part is getting everything back together, and finding room for the rat's nest of extra wiring. i did it half-arsed and need to go back and do it right.

i painted my projector housings flat black as well. it just made more sense.
 

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I just did this last week. Here are my tips:

1) Allocate a lot of time for this project. I think it probably took me 20-22 hours to do this. I started early Monday afternoon (it was a holiday). I worked on it a couple of hours each night on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday (I did the wiring, painting, soldering). Friday was my day off and I started it early afternoon. I don't think I finished until midnight.

2) I tried the guide's temperature and time guide but was having great difficulty. After the 3rd "8-minute" attempt I was able to pry it apart with some force. As you will see below, 250F was a better temperature for me and it came apart really easily.

3) I bought flat black high-temperature engine paint, but after it was dry enough to touch I started with the rest of the project. It was black when it went on, but it's a light gray now. I don't know if it was because of the reheating process to seal the headlights back up. If I were to do this again, I would paint the reflectors and then let them dry for many more hours (possibly overnight). Now I don't feel like taking everything apart again to repaint the reflector. Also, another guide mentions to wait a few hours for the fumes to go away. If this guide had mentioned it, I would have waited.

4) One of the LED strips doesn't stick well. After I sealed my headlights, I had to reopen them to push the LED strip back down. Later when I mounted the headlights to the bike, I was pulling the wires and happened to pull the strip back to the reflector. I recommend leaving enough wire inside the headlight (it will be hidden by the reflector) and then taping it down before it goes through the dust boot. Then leave enough wire so that if you have to pull off the dust boot again, you won't tug on the wire. (When I decided to pull the dust boot off and use a zip tie to try to move the LED strip back in place, the process of pulling the dust boot also tugged at the strip.)

5) You will need a dremel to remove the inside notch of the H7 adapter plate. It works fine for the high-beam side (left-hand side) and puts the projector in the correct orientation, but it will prevent you from aligning the low-beam side. Don't bother trying to take the projector apart to twist the base...I tried and had a little problem putting it back together (the screw doesn't want to go back in).

6) If you are wiring the kit to the batteries (I don't have a distribution block in the front yet), you have to plan ahead for the routing of the wires. After propping the fuel tank up, you can snake the wires along either side. If you are not using switches, you will need to route one set along the left-hand side and the other set along the right-hand side. The wires aren't long enough to go down one side and then go across to the other side. The plug for the low-beams is on the right-side and the plug for the high-beams is on the left-side. I originally routed both wires on the right side but found that I couldn't make the plug reach the high-beam on the left. Since I chose to use a switch to be able to turn off the low-beams, and this meant soldering the wires from both sets of wires together, I had to route them together. The switch wires are pretty long so I routed both wires along the left-side and then used the switch wire to reach over to the low-beam side.

7) You can mount the ballasts wherever you like. The kit comes with two bendable L-shaped pieces of metal and an assortment of hardware. I was originally going to place them on the side like everyone else but noticed that I could put the two L-shaped metal pieces together, sandwich them with the ballasts back to back, and mount them using the bolts that mount the headlights to the bike. I had previously mounted the headlights and then had to take it off so that I can put the ballasts in there.

8) I wanted to wire my demon eyes and LED strips to switches so that I could control them. This meant wiring the two sides together before connecting them to the switches. I used the left city/corner light to power one of them and the right light to power the other one. I don't have any issues doing it this way. (The instructions say to wire each side to their respective city/corner light, so I was worried that there might be a load issue.)

9) If you were ever considering putting a distribution block to power your GPS/phone/etc, you will want to do it at the same time while the bike is apart. Since I wired my demon eyes to a 2nd switch and my LED strips to a 3rd switch, I have wires crisscrossing. It's going to be pretty messy going back in to find a place to put it. Now I dread having to go back in to install a distribution block.

10) The wire harness for the city/corner lights is removable and pretty short. Remove them and don't be afraid to cut them in half and solder your wiring to them.

11) I recommend getting extra 3M double-sided tape to tape down the other things such as the halo inverters and the rectangular boxes that are attached to the wires that head to the battery. I also recommend heatshrinking everything and maybe using wire loom. I can kind of see part of the wiring when I'm on the bike, so maybe the rain would be able to find its way there too.

12) The service manual for our bike sucks and just gives general instructions. For example, when removing the fairings, I couldn't figure out how to get them to disconnect from the headlight unit/lining. The left side came out easily, but the right side was stuck and I ended up removing the headlight while the fairing was still connected to it. The service manual is also right in that nearly your entire front end has to be taken off. I tried to shortcut it by not taking off certain parts, but I always ended up having to go back and remove those missed parts.

13) I tried using 3M tape to mount a halo inverter on the headlight but found that the horn assembly kept hitting it during turns. Be sure to check for clearances.
 

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I just got these installed on my '09 a few days ago, I too will post some pictures when I get the chance. i have to to be forthcoming to everybody on this forum - my feedback on both the product and service provided are not the same in any way. the quality of the product is fantastic, in fact it seems this kit has been updated and a bit newer than what is displayed in these original picture tutorial. which is not a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

I originally placed my order on the very day before memorial day weekend. after placing my order i called the phone on his website and was left with a voicemail advising me that all orders will resume on the upcoming Tuesday. Tuesday came, with no change in order status and no returned phone call/email about a change i wanted to make to my order. i left voicemails and emails which went unreturned for days until i snapped and left him an email and voicemail that i am sure both were unpleasant and of course within 8 hours i got a response advising he made the appropriate changes to my order, didn't charge me the adjusted price for my order, and 'upgraded' my shipping for free and advised it was shipped that day. flash forward yet another few days and i did not receive a tracking number, nor my order (was told it would deliver days before), or any word from him. again, i light up his email and voicemail and leave messages advising i am not going to put up with this as it was clear as day I was being dicked around. i get a response the NEXT day with a tracking number that was JUST GENERATED (confirming my belief he never shipped it initially) with no apology - just the plain text of the tracking number. eventually, few weeks later, my lights did finally arrive and everything was in order.

all in all, the product is second to none. nobody else offers what he is selling, all the parts are of high quality, and everything looks good. only problem is his customer service. i understand entirely he is probably a one man show behind this business but customer service is crucial in running a successful business. at least getting back to the people who keep you employed should not be too much to ask.
 

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Can you pls take a pic of the wiring installs neatly tucked in on the bike. I'm stuck with the install and where to hide the wire. I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
 

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Can you pls take a pic of the wiring installs neatly tucked in on the bike. I'm stuck with the install and where to hide the wire. I would really appreciate it. Thanks! I am at my wits end where to go with wiring hiding and ballast hiding.
 

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Can you pls take a pic of the wiring installs neatly tucked in on the bike. I'm stuck with the install and where to hide the wire. I would really appreciate it. Thanks! I am at my wits end where to go with wiring hiding and ballast hiding.
did you try contacting the seller directly? call/email him - he would know best. I cannot take pics at this time.
 

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this looks freaking amazing. good job on the write up.
 
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