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I don't know anyone that did factory replacement of shock at 5k.

With that said, many of us have changed out front springs and I highly suggest upgrading. Easy install and very beneficial to the quality of ride. Many less have also don't the rear. Those who have tend to go the aftermarket line. Higher quality and longer life (and serviceable). There are a few who also found the factory shock to be more than sufficient for their needs and just buy replacements off eBay. I don't know what kind of mileage though.
 

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I just put an Ohlins shock on my '06 last month at about 26k miles. There wasn't anything wrong with it other than it never was the right spring rate for me from the beginning. But what an improvement! Only downside is that it accentuates how bad the forks really are. Looking at getting springs to match the rear and probably a Race Tech emulator kit too.
 

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The stock shock is not very good to start with, but it isn't going to be any worse in only 5000 miles. Funny thing about my stock shock......it actually got a little better with a lot of miles because the spring sacked and got closer to the proper spring rate for my weight. However, the damping went away and the rear end started to pogo, especially riding two-up. It would also bottom out at the stiffest setting when two-up. This was all after about 50,000 miles though. I replaced the shock with a Penske and by that time had also changed the fork springs and installed cartridge emulators.
 

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While it is possible for a shock to blow in 5k miles, it's not the norm. Your best bet is to upgrade your suspension to match your weight and riding style. In fact, after gear and training, this is the number one upgrade that will get you the most bang for your buck.
 

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If you're under 200lbs then the first thing that anyone should do is change out the front springs. They are simply too over sprung. The improvement in handling, comfort, and safety is rather shocking. When stock, the over sprung front springs don't allow the wheel to move with the surface of the road as it should.
 

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Just a question. Where is everyone getting their information? Are people just using the 2007 info/video, there have been multiple changes in spring rates. My 2013 front feels good and adjusted my rear sag. Fairly balanced, rebound rate.

Sportrider Magazine 2012 Ninja 650:
*Simple But Stable
** Complementing the chassis changes is a new fork that’s 5mm longer in overall length (125mm vs. 120mm) and softer in terms of spring rates. Internally, the updated fork also features revised damping rates that better stabilize the Ninja during spirited passes through the canyons. The lay-down shock has undergone like changes, including a 2mm increase in overall length (127mm vs. 125mm), a softer spring rate and revised damping.
 

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Just a question. Where is everyone getting their information? Are people just using the 2007 info/video, there have been multiple changes in spring rates. My 2013 front feels good and adjusted my rear sag. Fairly balanced, rebound rate.

Sportrider Magazine 2012 Ninja 650:
*Simple But Stable
** Complementing the chassis changes is a new fork that’s 5mm longer in overall length (125mm vs. 120mm) and softer in terms of spring rates. Internally, the updated fork also features revised damping rates that better stabilize the Ninja during spirited passes through the canyons. The lay-down shock has undergone like changes, including a 2mm increase in overall length (127mm vs. 125mm), a softer spring rate and revised damping.
I'm sure there have been changes through the years, Both known and unknown as suppliers change. What I would ask you is what is your front rider sag number. Anything under 25mm means a spring that is too stiff. Mine was under 20 with the stock springs. Others have found the same through the years, including 12+.
 
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I just rode from Indy to St Louis(O'Fallon). There is no doubt that a perfectly sprung/sag setup bike is optimal. I/myself am only finding information on 07-11. Original post on this topic-07 video. I purchased the Ninja for simplicity. I love it! Just enjoying the Bike and Life.
 

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I just rode from Indy to St Louis(O'Fallon). There is no doubt that a perfectly sprung/sag setup bike is optimal. I/myself am only finding information on 07-11. Original post on this topic-07 video. I purchased the Ninja for simplicity. I love it! Just enjoying the Bike and Life.
Racetech has tested the springs to be 1.2 kg/mm, iirc. They dropped me down to .95. 160lbs rider without gear.
 

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Racetech has tested the springs to be 1.2 kg/mm, iirc. They dropped me down to .95. 160lbs rider without gear.
Yes, Race Tech lists that rate for 06-11. Like I said, I am finding it hard to find the rate for the 13 model. I know from racing, that when you buy a bike you are buying a motor and a good starting package for some, for me a complete rework. Personal and sponsorship, basically the same. I am just making others aware that 12 and newer are different. Personalizing is one of the fun parts of riding.
 

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Even with changes, nothing beats having the correct spring rate front & rear for specific rider weight and riding style. No stock suspension will give you that, as stock suspension is set up for the broadest range of riders as possible.
 

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Yes, Race Tech lists that rate for 06-11. Like I said, I am finding it hard to find the rate for the 13 model. I know from racing, that when you buy a bike you are buying a motor and a good starting package for some, for me a complete rework. Personal and sponsorship, basically the same. I am just making others aware that 12 and newer are different. Personalizing is one of the fun parts of riding.
I believe bradmeister sent his stock springs to Racetech and they came back with the same number for his '13. I think he posted that in his suspension 101 thread. I could be remembering incorrectly though.
 

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I changed both front and rear on mine quite quickly. I am 135lbs, and the front suspension felt like it was going to rip my arms off. I got a much softer set of springs, valve emulators, and preload adjustment caps up front. Got the Nitron sport shock in the rear, and it's like night and day difference now.
 

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Just installed a penske rear shock, and 1.0 mm/kg springs in the forks with racetech GVE's on my 2007. Loving the bike now. I am 190lbs. The stock spring was over sprung for me.
 

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The stock shock is not very good to start with, but it isn't going to be any worse in only 5000 miles. Funny thing about my stock shock......it actually got a little better with a lot of miles because the spring sacked and got closer to the proper spring rate for my weight. However, the damping went away and the rear end started to pogo, especially riding two-up. It would also bottom out at the stiffest setting when two-up. This was all after about 50,000 miles though. I replaced the shock with a Penske and by that time had also changed the fork springs and installed cartridge emulators.
Hello!! I’m new here and just bought a 2007 ninja 650R and I need to change out the stock shocks as I am only 140 pounds and the handling of the bike isn’t that great. Does anyone suggest what brand or type I need to buy to help me with this problem?
 

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Hi. Welcome onboard. Try Sonic springs. They will make you one to suit your weight and riding style.
 

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Thank you!!
You're welcome. There are some other companies that make springs, very good ones, but I found Sonic to be less expensive and made good springs. I bought a set of fork springs from them for my 2015 Ninja 650 which were set up for my weight and the roads here. Also the owner was pretty good about communicating - and no: I get nothing from promoting his business. Just trying to help other bikers.
 

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I always liked Sonic springs , too.

Whatever you do, do not use the Race Tech online spring guide. It's often times not accurate and no one goes back in and corrects errors.
 
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