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Discussion Starter #1
So about a month ago it got to freezing temps here which rarely happens. anyways i had water in my radiator at that time from a recent radiator change. Well **** froze overnight. I came home from work and instantly put it in my house and let it thaw out. Well all the ice melted and waited till it warmed back up and brought it outside, put antifreeze in it, and then started it. It ran great and the only place that was leaking was from the waterpump. I took it apart and found out that the bolt that holds the impeller to the shaft broke off inside the shaft. I tried using an extractor but that didnt work at all. So now i have to get a new impeller shaft. Only problem is i dont know how to remove it. Any ideas on how this is done?

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Discussion Starter #2
Im very much hoping that i dont need a whole new balancer shaft... Im looking at parts break downs and it looks like its all one piece. Really need some insight
 

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I sure hope I'm wrong, but I think you are in a world of hurt, my friend. Looks to me like the balancer shaft would have to be replaced and that means pulling the engine and splitting the cases. Perhaps, just perhaps, you can drill out the hole in the end of the shaft and tap it for the next bolt size up, but that's really risky. The hole must be perfectly centered in the shaft and there has to be enough metal left to take a tap for new threads.
 

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Do you have a picture of the bolt inside the shaft? How did you go about using the extractor? Unfortunately I've been where you're at quite a few times, and do have a few tricks...let me know where you're at.
 

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+1 McRider. There's no way to remove that shaft from the outside. The first step in the removal instructions is "split the crankcase". If you need a new one they're about $200.

How much material of the old bolt is left in there? You've probably already got a pilot hole drilled at least. You may be able to JB weld something into that hole and turn the old bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
+1 McRider. There's no way to remove that shaft from the outside. The first step in the removal instructions is "split the crankcase". If you need a new one they're about $200.

How much material of the old bolt is left in there? You've probably already got a pilot hole drilled at least. You may be able to JB weld something into that hole and turn the old bolt out.
I tried drilling it and using a extractor but no luck so I started getting ready to pull the motor. All I have left now is to take off the chain and remove engine bolts and drop the engine. I saw on ebay balancer shaft runs about $50. And there shouldn't be a difference between 06-08 ninjas right?
 

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Look up the part numbers for those two years and if they are the same you should be good to go (I expect they will be). Good luck.
 

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Assad,

Man are we "feeling" for you!

I would have gone through hell not to pull that engine out! A Heli-coil or anything but pulling it!

Since you seem to be "commited" and you're already rippin her apart. I would strongly suggest you put that new shaft on some v blocks with a dial indicator before you install that puppy used....... Any inclination or reservation about trueness, and would say get a new one from Kawasaki or Partszilla.

Good Luck, and Godsspeed.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Assad,

Man are we "feeling" for you!

I would have gone through hell not to pull that engine out! A Heli-coil or anything but pulling it!

Since you seem to be "commited" and you're already rippin her apart. I would strongly suggest you put that new shaft on some v blocks with a dial indicator before you install that puppy used....... Any inclination or reservation about trueness, and would say get a new one from Kawasaki or Partszilla.

Good Luck, and Godsspeed.

Cheers
Ya it sucks buuut its a learning experience. I am pretty mechanically as my other hobby is cars and drifting. Ive built my current drift car from the shell up and fully built my motor also. Although with bikes i havent had much experience besides common things so im actually lookin forward to tearing this engine apart as it helps me learn more about how it all works lol. But ya i understand what ya mean and will most likely be getting a new one then. Right now im waiting on some bike stands from online so i can get the bike raised off and get the chain and tire off and drop the engine.

Before i actually separate the the bottom end is there anything i should know about doing this balancer change? I dont think there are any diy's or writeups on how to do it so im just wondering.
 

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I haven't read of anyone else needing to do this. Just make sure you read the service manual. There's a process for inspecting and measuring clearances between the shaft and journals.
 

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This is a horizontally split crankcase, so maybe you can just turn the engine over and get to the ballancer without taking the top end and cylinder off. That would save a whole bunch of work. I'm too lazy to go look at the service manual to see for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is a horizontally split crankcase, so maybe you can just turn the engine over and get to the ballancer without taking the top end and cylinder off. That would save a whole bunch of work. I'm too lazy to go look at the service manual to see for sure.
Ya from looking at it i had just planned to dropped the engine and take the bolts out the from the bottom thinkin that i would be able to get to the balancer from there. But im guessing there is more to it then that? I mean ive rebuilt a 4 cylinder sr20det from the ground up so when i look at it im thinkin of it in those terms.
 

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Assad,

After busting more than my fair share of motorcycle engines apart........... Prepare yourself with the entire section printed and during a few moments of silence read the entire procedure. Get a full scoped and detail in your mind.

You know it may have to go into the oven.... you may be able to cut or modify the dis-assembly. You may have to have special tools or make them on the fly.

I have not had this engine apart, but I have had something similar in a Ninja 500 a few years back..... also a twin and I had a ***** of a time with the gasket kit. It was a bad connecting rod bearing on one of the cylinders and the crank had to be replaced........ I'm not sure I would be interested to do it again.

You may want to explore the option of pulling the throttle body and heads, and sending it out for repair to an overhaul shop of your choice as it will be time consuming and requires much effort and application.

Cheers and good luck. (again, pull it, prep it, ship it! may be the best route to go!)
 
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