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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I got a new to me 2002 ZR7 from New York, though I'm in NB, Canada. Great bike and I love it.

Now I'm personalizing it. I've read through many pages about power draw, some stating we have maybe 70 watts extra for devices? I killed my battery a couple days ago (installing extra LEDs, bike not running while I tested them) and I'm installing a new one (very old battery anyway) and I'm looking for confirmation of what I should be running.
Here's my setup:
Moose Species headlight (5 watt park, 55 watt low and 55 watt high) - Low is off when high is on and vice versa
Front turn signal stock but they are NOT set up as daytime running
Rear signals LED
Stock tail light

My additions:
2 x 10 watt LED lights on a switch, wired direct to battery (on/off switch I control)
5 volt 2.1 amp phone charger for navigating
Oxford Heaterz heated grips (2.1 amps, 28-30 watts each one) <- I assume this is high setting, I haven't been able to find information of power draw on individual settings

One possibility is to swap out the 55 low with a 35 watt and run the LEDs which do a better job anyway.

I'm considering installing a voltage monitor, just wondering what you guys think, am I really pushing the limit with this setup, say perhaps everything turned on but grips not on high? The grips seem to be the heaviest draw.:confuse:

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A voltage meter will tell you if you're not putting enough juice out to keep the battery charged.
 

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There are makers of higher output stators out there. Get a direct wired headlight kit from Eastern Beaver.com and lose the LED lights with a better brighter headlight. And get a premium headlight bulb. I have a permanent direct to battery hookup from Deltran Battery Tender that I can hookup my battery maintainer, voltage gauge, and USB charger. Maybe replacing your tail light with a high tech LED/ turn signal and such. Chronic overstressing your electrical system can spell disaster. Just saying. I used to ride older British bikes in the 60's that had Lucas electrics that left me in the dark (literally) more times that I wanted to admit. I gave up on my personal (at the time) dream motorcycle a 1969 Triumph 500 Daytona because I could not trust its electrical system and components. Just don't pile on stuff and hope for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There are makers of higher output stators out there. Get a direct wired headlight kit from Eastern Beaver.com and lose the LED lights with a better brighter headlight. And get a premium headlight bulb. I have a permanent direct to battery hookup from Deltran Battery Tender that I can hookup my battery maintainer, voltage gauge, and USB charger. Maybe replacing your tail light with a high tech LED/ turn signal and such. Chronic overstressing your electrical system can spell disaster. Just saying. I used to ride older British bikes in the 60's that had Lucas electrics that left me in the dark (literally) more times that I wanted to admit. I gave up on my personal (at the time) dream motorcycle a 1969 Triumph 500 Daytona because I could not trust its electrical system and components. Just don't pile on stuff and hope for the best.
I did order some LED tail lights and I'm searching for some kind of HID kit for a naked bike. So far all seem to be in the $500+ range, really pricey. Seems most people make their own brackets, but I don't have any welding experience. I am swapping the low beam to a 35 watt for now. Still looking into headlight options.
 

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Available through The Motorcycle Superstore is the Electrosport Industries stator thst has a higher output especially at lower RPM's and is a better made unit for $119.95. I have used them before and they make a really good product. The increased output isn't a lot but significant at a good usable speed. If you remove all the body work and double check all terminals and "bullet" style male female connections and use the slightest bit of dielectric grease to promote good connections ect. Look into the Easternbeaver.com direct to battery headlight wiring kit, the increase in light in very real.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Available through The Motorcycle Superstore is the Electrosport Industries stator thst has a higher output especially at lower RPM's and is a better made unit for $119.95. I have used them before and they make a really good product. The increased output isn't a lot but significant at a good usable speed. If you remove all the body work and double check all terminals and "bullet" style male female connections and use the slightest bit of dielectric grease to promote good connections ect. Look into the Easternbeaver.com direct to battery headlight wiring kit, the increase in light in very real.
Thanks, I did see the stator on Fortnine and it's on my wish list. Seems to be mixed opinions on Electrosport but good to hear from someone with experience with them.
I ordered a new HID headlight (35w), and LED front turn lights with a flasher relay. LED tail lights are in and a volt meter coming. I think I'm getting it down to a level I can maintain even with the stock stator. Hope the money spent is worth it! :D
Dielectric grease sounds like a good idea, I'll be looking into that as well.
 

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Just don't push the lights too much . I think the stock H4 headlight is good especially with the use of the eastern beaver direct wired relay kit. Using a PIAA brand Extreme White H4 anti vibration bulb puts out an excellent light path and uses standard light voltage. The only issue you have is routing your wiring because you don't have anything to hide it behind, I ride the ZR7S and ZRX's that have 1/2 and quarter fairings. Those copies of ZRX fairings that work with a 7" round headlight are a good option for you.
Also I really want you to check out www.easternbeaver.com as he sells a plethora of wiring stuff and has an H4 wiring kit for "in shell" kit (for your bike) as well as fairing kits. They both use dual relays for hi and low beams and the light available is way more than you'd expect with an H4 bulb, being direct wired. No cutting you use you OEM wiring as the relay switching for the headlight. His stuff is the best out there and it's about the best "one stop shop" out there. A heck of a lot of folks on this forum use his stuff. I have his headlight kits on all my motorcycles.
Eastern Beaver also sells Non H4 wiring kits. His work is the best I've ever seen outside Aircraft/ Military. Extremely Professional work.
Good Luck, keep us informed you hit a gold mine with this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just don't push the lights too much . I think the stock H4 headlight is good especially with the use of the eastern beaver direct wired relay kit. Using a PIAA brand Extreme White H4 anti vibration bulb puts out an excellent light path and uses standard light voltage. The only issue you have is routing your wiring because you don't have anything to hide it behind, I ride the ZR7S and ZRX's that have 1/2 and quarter fairings. Those copies of ZRX fairings that work with a 7" round headlight are a good option for you.
Also I really want you to check out Home as he sells a plethora of wiring stuff and has an H4 wiring kit for "in shell" kit (for your bike) as well as fairing kits. They both use dual relays for hi and low beams and the light available is way more than you'd expect with an H4 bulb, being direct wired. No cutting you use you OEM wiring as the relay switching for the headlight. His stuff is the best out there and it's about the best "one stop shop" out there. A heck of a lot of folks on this forum use his stuff. I have his headlight kits on all my motorcycles.
Eastern Beaver also sells Non H4 wiring kits. His work is the best I've ever seen outside Aircraft/ Military. Extremely Professional work.
Good Luck, keep us informed you hit a gold mine with this forum.
Ya but I don't have an H4 bulb (currently H3), nor do I have the stock round headlight. It came with the moose species headlight when I bought it, at least that's what I think it is from searching online.
I've got a 35 watt HID headlight on the way with a ballast. Would his kit make a difference with that type of headlight?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well here's the mostly finished version. LED all around except the gauges. New flasher relay to stop the hyperflash. 35w low and high beams. I kept the extra LED lights up front as backup in case of fog/bad conditions.
A bit Frankenstein, but I like it. The windshield makes a massive difference on the highway.

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