RiderForums.com - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally completed the upgrade of my early Christmas gift from my wife:D She got me the Genmar Risers. Over all it took two days to do everything but I took my time and had fun working on the bike.

The risers were the easiest to change out and just from riding arond the community I have noticed a big difference in the ergos. Awesome X'mas present from the wife.

Total for the brakelines, fittings, Brake Cylinder diaphragm was $120. no labor since I did it my self. I did buy this neet little tool called a "Mity Vac - Vacuum Pump bleeding kit" it definitely made the bleeding part quick and easy (I will post a picture of it)

I went with the Russell (Edelbrock company) Brand stainless stell brake lines and 35`12MM Banjo fittings (4 of them). For the clutch side I went with a 34" line and for the Brake side I went with a 32" line. Both are a tad long but better to be a little long then too short. For the Master Cylinder I went with the "Aluminum Banjo Bolt for Double Line w/ Speed Bleeder" this piece had to be used since I was going to two seperate lines instead of 1 to 2 lines. My local Kawi shop was very easy to work with and very explanatory on installing the lines. Full size manual helps also :D

The first picture I'm going to post is of the Genmar Risers - showing the new position of them. The other pictures will be the Mity Vac and of course the new lines.

I'm glad that I was able to do this small project and do it correctly. One reason why I bought the ZR was it would be fun to ride and easy to work on (air cool should be simple to work on) and the great members on this website to help out if I need it.
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
One more picture of the Risers and the Double Line w/ Speed Bleeder is shown. I can already tell that the new position of the bars will make a big difference in comfort especially on long rides. They should come in handy when group of us take a ride to Savannah, GA. for St. Patty's day.
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
In this picture is the Mityvac - vacuum pump brake bleeding kit. It sure made the bleeding easy and for getting all of the bubbles out of the lines.
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Here is the new set up with the OEM splitter removed, I had to make a retainer clip to hold the line on the left. Overall it looks a lot cleaner.
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I promise this the last picture. This one is showing the final hook up onthe "Brake side" So far no leaks - I did some hard braking at 20mph and so far so good. Hope the pictures help for anyone else who might be thinking about doing the Genmar Risers and Brakelines. Trust me if I can do this anyone can, I'm probably the most mechanically challenged member on the board but I'm having fun learning:D
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,329 Posts
Length Difference?

Hey Ben,

Nice job and thanks for the pics to go with the description.
I have a quick question... If you had to do it over would you have gone with different length lines for the right and left brakes? Looking at the pic near the bars it seems that one has a bit more "slack" than the other. I assume that is the right side (throttle/brake side)?

Could you have gone an inch shorter on that line? Just wondering for future reference.

Thanks!!

EDIT--- just reread your original post. They are different lengths. So which one has the "additional slack" that I see in the first pic? Would you have shortened it? Or do those lines only come in "even" lengths?

Again, just curious!!! Looks Great!
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Gump good question- If I had to do again I would have the Brake / Throttle side about an inch shorter. I was able to order any length and I was a little nervous on being too short. Overall I'm real pleased with the outcome and I was able to do them myself. The shop was very helpful on helping me pick out the parts. The even helped me measure but I was the one that went up on the lenght so I should had listened to them but at least the brakes work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Nice work, Ben. I may have to do something similar one day. Do the lines rub on your fender or anything else under heavy fork dive? If so, you can get some clear plastic spiral wrap or sleeving to prevent the braid from scuffing up your pretty yellow (best-handling color) paint. :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,329 Posts
Thanks Ben!!

Ben, I appreciate the feedback! The job looks great! I may have to change my lines out soon. I think I need to change the brake fluid anyway (doesn't the manual say every two years? - I'm nearing 3 :eek: ).

Again, friend, great job. Thanks for the pics and info!!!
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Doug, I doubled check and so far nothing rubs on the best color of "Yellow":D Plus I used all available retaining clips that I could plus in one of the pictures you can tell on the left side that I made (Homemade) retainer clip. It was actually a push pin clip like you would use on a tractor and I just bent it in the work bench vise to get the correct angle.

Gump - thanks again I think your right about every 3 yrs. I specifically stayed with DOT 4 since that's what the manual said. It was a fun project. But most of all the handle bar risers (X'mas gift from the loving wife) are the best mods I've done so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Did you have to modify or change the legnth of the throttle and clutch cables????
I guess if you are positioning the handlebars rearward, that would compensate for the rise???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
551 Posts
Jmiers said:
Did you have to modify or change the legnth of the throttle and clutch cables????
I guess if you are positioning the handlebars rearward, that would compensate for the rise???
John,

NO changes have to be made to the throttle and clutch cables.

Actually all you have to change is the front brake line to the splitter and you're done.

Gerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Thanks for the info. I'v got a long shopping list, and have to plan out my mods so as not to overlap procedures.
For the fork springs, I think I'm going to use a marine oil extraction pump (hand operated) for the forks so I don't have to take off the wheel, brakes etc. to drain the fork oil.
 

·
Silver Member
Joined
·
336 Posts
"For the fork springs, I think I'm going to use a marine oil extraction pump (hand operated) for the forks so I don't have to take off the wheel, brakes etc. to drain the fork oil."

That sounds like the way to go. Perhaps you won't get all the old oil, but would an ounce or two matter? Has anyone here tried this before? My other bikes have convenient oil drain screws at the bottom of the forks. Why did the manufacturers have a better idea 13 to 24 years ago?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Yeah, I thought the same thing myself.... it's progress.
The marine pump I'm talking about is a little handheld gizmo similar to the brake bleeding tool. It is mainly used to extract engine oil from inboard motors on boats. Just shove the tube down the oil dipstick tube down to the bottom, and suck out the oil. Most boat owners use this, and if you change the filter twice as often, the little amount on the bottom of the oilpan ususally doesn't matter. I figure that the little amt of oil left in the
fork will mix with the new weight and won't make much of a difference.
 

·
Boy Scout
Joined
·
1,342 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Gerry's right all other cables work out fine after the risers were installed. I could have done just the one line to the splitter but I figured I might as well change them all out.

By the ways does anyone out there want my OEM front brake lines they only had 6K miles on them? I have no need form them now.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top